Questions about stock sub location...
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Questions about stock sub location...
So I found out, as many of you already know, that there is a stock sub location behind my driver seat. For your knowledge I have I a 2005 350Z base model. The subwoofer plate is there and I am curious about several things:
1. Which high end subs can I fit in there? I currently have a S12L5 Kicker solobaric designed in a custom enclosure for my last Z car (96 300ZX) that was stolen, luckily without the stereo equipment. I was using, and still have, a JL Audio 500.1 amp to use for whichever sub I decide upon. I was thinking about a 10w6v2 or a similar class speaker. Will this fit? Once again what fits and what should I use?
2. How much air space is actually there? I have heard estimates from .6 to .8. After having built a .8 cubic inch sub box for my S12L5 and looking inside the compartment, there "seems" to be more than that space wise. Looks could however be deceiving.
3. Finally one thing that troubles me is that fact that the sub plate that the speaker bolts into has a couple of holes on the left side? Is this enclosure air tight when using bose panel with the 10" speaker grill? What concerns are there about using the stock location as a sealed box?
4. On the 90-96 300ZXs the BOSE stereos were a pain in the *** due to the separate amps. Since I am not using a BOSE stereo will I have that problem this time around? Or am I lucky enough to have the deck truly powering the stock speakers?
5. Finally on the note of the stock non-BOSE speakers, what brand are they? Are the door speakers a cheap component set (i.e. midbass driver and separate tweeter in the upper portion of the door) or are the tweeter locations empty. I've tried to listen to them but I am still unsure. I think there are real tweeters there.
Any information about this stuff would be great. Finally, without getting too custom, where would you all recommend placing the 500.1 and in the future the 300.4 that I plan to buy? I want to drill and cut as little as is humanly possible on my brand new car. (At least for now...)
Thanks in advance
1. Which high end subs can I fit in there? I currently have a S12L5 Kicker solobaric designed in a custom enclosure for my last Z car (96 300ZX) that was stolen, luckily without the stereo equipment. I was using, and still have, a JL Audio 500.1 amp to use for whichever sub I decide upon. I was thinking about a 10w6v2 or a similar class speaker. Will this fit? Once again what fits and what should I use?
2. How much air space is actually there? I have heard estimates from .6 to .8. After having built a .8 cubic inch sub box for my S12L5 and looking inside the compartment, there "seems" to be more than that space wise. Looks could however be deceiving.
3. Finally one thing that troubles me is that fact that the sub plate that the speaker bolts into has a couple of holes on the left side? Is this enclosure air tight when using bose panel with the 10" speaker grill? What concerns are there about using the stock location as a sealed box?
4. On the 90-96 300ZXs the BOSE stereos were a pain in the *** due to the separate amps. Since I am not using a BOSE stereo will I have that problem this time around? Or am I lucky enough to have the deck truly powering the stock speakers?
5. Finally on the note of the stock non-BOSE speakers, what brand are they? Are the door speakers a cheap component set (i.e. midbass driver and separate tweeter in the upper portion of the door) or are the tweeter locations empty. I've tried to listen to them but I am still unsure. I think there are real tweeters there.
Any information about this stuff would be great. Finally, without getting too custom, where would you all recommend placing the 500.1 and in the future the 300.4 that I plan to buy? I want to drill and cut as little as is humanly possible on my brand new car. (At least for now...)
Thanks in advance
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This topic has been covered a lot - do a search for much more detail. But here is the overview to your questions:
The Bose sub is a free air sub, thus you don't need a sealed enclosure. That is why the plate is there. You'll ditch that thing, its useless.
Depending on the sub, you can usually fit a .8 - 1 cubic foot custom built sub box in the area (I have an Infinity Kappa Perfect back there - it just fit). The area is bigger inside, but the opening to put your box in is not (you cant stuff a 1 foot x 2 foot box through a 8 inch x 18 inch hole).
If you use this area, you'll need to use a TON of dynamat, or else you'll get rattles like crazy. Even then, the bass will not be optimal. (think of a bass note as a sine wave. Low base notes are very long, and they need distance from you to complete the cycle. A wave that originates 3 foot away from you will "develop" better than a wave6 inches from you. For instance, a 20 Hz base note takes 6 foot to complete one sine wave.)
You can get pretty good sound from that location, but you'll notice the big boys put the sub box in the rear.
Throw the stock head unit away - don't waste your time and money trying to make it sound good. It never will (been there and tried.)
The speakers are clarion crap paper cones. There is a tweeter in the door. Just yank those out and put some good component speakers in there (Alpine, Infinity, etc.).
You'll cut apart the 6.5 inch paper cone in order to make a mount for the new speaker - either that or make one out of wood. You cannot just screw a new 6.5 inch speaker into the door. You need the mount because otherwise the speaker's magnet will hit into the window when you roll it down.)
The Bose sub is a free air sub, thus you don't need a sealed enclosure. That is why the plate is there. You'll ditch that thing, its useless.
Depending on the sub, you can usually fit a .8 - 1 cubic foot custom built sub box in the area (I have an Infinity Kappa Perfect back there - it just fit). The area is bigger inside, but the opening to put your box in is not (you cant stuff a 1 foot x 2 foot box through a 8 inch x 18 inch hole).
If you use this area, you'll need to use a TON of dynamat, or else you'll get rattles like crazy. Even then, the bass will not be optimal. (think of a bass note as a sine wave. Low base notes are very long, and they need distance from you to complete the cycle. A wave that originates 3 foot away from you will "develop" better than a wave6 inches from you. For instance, a 20 Hz base note takes 6 foot to complete one sine wave.)
You can get pretty good sound from that location, but you'll notice the big boys put the sub box in the rear.
Throw the stock head unit away - don't waste your time and money trying to make it sound good. It never will (been there and tried.)
The speakers are clarion crap paper cones. There is a tweeter in the door. Just yank those out and put some good component speakers in there (Alpine, Infinity, etc.).
You'll cut apart the 6.5 inch paper cone in order to make a mount for the new speaker - either that or make one out of wood. You cannot just screw a new 6.5 inch speaker into the door. You need the mount because otherwise the speaker's magnet will hit into the window when you roll it down.)
Thread Starter
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 8
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From: San Francisco, CA USA
Originally posted by MrGraphics
This topic has been covered a lot - do a search for much more detail. But here is the overview to your questions:
The Bose sub is a free air sub, thus you don't need a sealed enclosure. That is why the plate is there. You'll ditch that thing, its useless.
Depending on the sub, you can usually fit a .8 - 1 cubic foot custom built sub box in the area (I have an Infinity Kappa Perfect back there - it just fit). The area is bigger inside, but the opening to put your box in is not (you cant stuff a 1 foot x 2 foot box through a 8 inch x 18 inch hole).
If you use this area, you'll need to use a TON of dynamat, or else you'll get rattles like crazy. Even then, the bass will not be optimal. (think of a bass note as a sine wave. Low base notes are very long, and they need distance from you to complete the cycle. A wave that originates 3 foot away from you will "develop" better than a wave6 inches from you. For instance, a 20 Hz base note takes 6 foot to complete one sine wave.)
You can get pretty good sound from that location, but you'll notice the big boys put the sub box in the rear.
Throw the stock head unit away - don't waste your time and money trying to make it sound good. It never will (been there and tried.)
The speakers are clarion crap paper cones. There is a tweeter in the door. Just yank those out and put some good component speakers in there (Alpine, Infinity, etc.).
You'll cut apart the 6.5 inch paper cone in order to make a mount for the new speaker - either that or make one out of wood. You cannot just screw a new 6.5 inch speaker into the door. You need the mount because otherwise the speaker's magnet will hit into the window when you roll it down.)
This topic has been covered a lot - do a search for much more detail. But here is the overview to your questions:
The Bose sub is a free air sub, thus you don't need a sealed enclosure. That is why the plate is there. You'll ditch that thing, its useless.
Depending on the sub, you can usually fit a .8 - 1 cubic foot custom built sub box in the area (I have an Infinity Kappa Perfect back there - it just fit). The area is bigger inside, but the opening to put your box in is not (you cant stuff a 1 foot x 2 foot box through a 8 inch x 18 inch hole).
If you use this area, you'll need to use a TON of dynamat, or else you'll get rattles like crazy. Even then, the bass will not be optimal. (think of a bass note as a sine wave. Low base notes are very long, and they need distance from you to complete the cycle. A wave that originates 3 foot away from you will "develop" better than a wave6 inches from you. For instance, a 20 Hz base note takes 6 foot to complete one sine wave.)
You can get pretty good sound from that location, but you'll notice the big boys put the sub box in the rear.
Throw the stock head unit away - don't waste your time and money trying to make it sound good. It never will (been there and tried.)
The speakers are clarion crap paper cones. There is a tweeter in the door. Just yank those out and put some good component speakers in there (Alpine, Infinity, etc.).
You'll cut apart the 6.5 inch paper cone in order to make a mount for the new speaker - either that or make one out of wood. You cannot just screw a new 6.5 inch speaker into the door. You need the mount because otherwise the speaker's magnet will hit into the window when you roll it down.)
When you cut apart the 6.5 inch paper cone do you then just drill and screw in the new speaker in the remaining plastic ring? If not how are the new speakers screwed in?
I think most of my questions are answered but...
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Joined: Feb 2005
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Originally posted by mofoz
i mounted a 10w6v2 in there and it sounds awesome. you do have to dynamat that entire area pretty well though.
i mounted a 10w6v2 in there and it sounds awesome. you do have to dynamat that entire area pretty well though.
In addition, is there anything about the sound of the 10 there that you don't like? Do the two holes left of the speaker cause any negative noise that you're aware of? Finally, did you dynamat the compartment very well, sorta or not at all?
I was at a local shop and they happend to be working on a Z. they did the same thing and put a jl in the stock location and dyno'ed the entire inside to seal it. They actually mounted the amp behind the sub so the install was 100% stealth.
The sub, front and rear speakers, and amp with install was $1400. It didn't sound half bad for such a stealth install. I am thinking about having them do a similar job on my car.
The sub, front and rear speakers, and amp with install was $1400. It didn't sound half bad for such a stealth install. I am thinking about having them do a similar job on my car.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 8
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From: San Francisco, CA USA
Originally posted by hypeiv
I was at a local shop and they happend to be working on a Z. they did the same thing and put a jl in the stock location and dyno'ed the entire inside to seal it. They actually mounted the amp behind the sub so the install was 100% stealth.
The sub, front and rear speakers, and amp with install was $1400. It didn't sound half bad for such a stealth install. I am thinking about having them do a similar job on my car.
I was at a local shop and they happend to be working on a Z. they did the same thing and put a jl in the stock location and dyno'ed the entire inside to seal it. They actually mounted the amp behind the sub so the install was 100% stealth.
The sub, front and rear speakers, and amp with install was $1400. It didn't sound half bad for such a stealth install. I am thinking about having them do a similar job on my car.
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