BigMike

Can anyone provide information about adding a sub and amp to the factory non-Bose am/fm/cd? I want to put it in the same place they put the Bose sub.

Thanks

hjobe

I used a ton of dynamat extreme as well as extreme dynaliner to pretty much seal off that whole back compartment where the factory sub goes (about $120 for the materials off sounddomain).

Then I installed a $60 Pioneer 254-f free air sub in the stock location.

Used a line out converter from DavidNavone.com ($20) to hook up to an amp that I already had.

Mounted the amp in the glove box.

Bought the Bose factory speaker grille from courtesy nissan ($30).

The end result was a very stealth amp/sub set up that sounds very good. While the sub does not hit as low as past 12'''s and 15''s that I have had, this setup definitely blows away the Bose system, at a fraction of the price.

I have a roadster and the sub even sounds good with the top down.

Looking back, I am not sure whether I would have done all this work or just purchased a Basslink. This setup sounds better, but the Basslink would be much less work.

BigMike

Thanks for the info!

What Davidnav converter did you use. I saw them but there were several on their web site.

hjobe

The NE-7V

The converter is absolutely amazing. Blows away other crappy 1-v converters that I have used in the past. Puts out as good, if not better, signal that a 4-v output on my old pioneer head unit.

Bill B

hjobe,

I am attempting to install a Infinity 100.3se 10" sub onto the factory bracket and found that the hole is too big. Is there some sort of bracket or converter that can be obtained to get the sub to fit properly?

hjobe

The hole was a little too big for my sub as well.

2 problems have to be cured (1) making sure the sub is sealed and there are no gaps around the edges of the sub, and (2) figuring out a way to mount the sub to the bracket since the holes likely do not line up.

(1) - I lined the hole with a couple layers of dynamat to make the whole smaller and then used a big piece of rubber weather stripping from Home Depot (door/window section) to seal the speaker completely inside the hole.

(2) I was able to drill holes in the bracket for 4 of the 6 screws to mount my sub. The sub fis tightly secured and sounds fine without the other 2 screws.
Try drilling the holes at an angle away from the hole, as far away from the hole as you can. You might have to drill into the speaker bracket to give you some extra room for the hole.

I read a post from another guy that used some type of adhesive to mount his speaker, but that was not acceptable to me because I want to be able to remove the speaker.

Good luck!

hjobe

Also, you can search around for this other guy that used a piece of wood between the speaker grille and the sub to mount the sub.

It looked like way too much work to me, plus I dont see how the Bose speaker grille can fit over the Wood+speaker.

dannichols

Hjobe, great to hear your setup turned out well.

hjobe

Thanks. I definitely could not have done it without everyone's help.

The system doesnt sound quite as good as some of my prior systems, but as far as bang for the buck, its great.

hjobe

One more hint - glue the weather stripping around the 10'' hole of the bracket instead of directly onto your speaker.

solidsnake

iTrader: (14)

Anyone have pics of the setup. Will a 12 fit? Where did yall place the amp?

hjobe

I put the amp underneath the fake floor in the glove box.

No, a 12 wont fit in the stock bracket. If you really want a 12 in the stock location, you are going to have to remove the bracket and build a custom box.

solidsnake

iTrader: (14)

Where in Texas are you?

hjobe

Dallas

03_Track_Z

iTrader: (2)

dude! i live in fort worth and want to run this setup, mind if i swing by next weekend and take a look and get some pointers? thanks.

hjobe

I leave in two hours for a week in the Bahamas!!

Follow up with me next week.