Going from one amp to two...
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Going from one amp to two...
I currently have one 5 ch. amp in my trunk but within the next week will be replacing it with a 4ch. phoenix gold amp. and a phoenix gold mono amp. How do I connect 2 amps? Do I need to run another power and ground?
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Well - it's going to depend on a lot of things. Here's some.
1. What size power wire do you have now.
2. What is the amp rating of your current amp versus your new ones combined.
3. How big of a ground wire do you have from the battery to the vehicle chassis.
If the amp loading isn't that much more you should be able to just buy some distribution blocks and mount them back near your 2 new amps.
Regardless of if you have to run new power wire, definitely double up on the ground wire. I'm running 2 4 gauge grounds and only 1 4 gauge power in my Z. In my daily driver Honda I'm running 2 0 gauge grounds to 1 0 gauge power.
1. What size power wire do you have now.
2. What is the amp rating of your current amp versus your new ones combined.
3. How big of a ground wire do you have from the battery to the vehicle chassis.
If the amp loading isn't that much more you should be able to just buy some distribution blocks and mount them back near your 2 new amps.
Regardless of if you have to run new power wire, definitely double up on the ground wire. I'm running 2 4 gauge grounds and only 1 4 gauge power in my Z. In my daily driver Honda I'm running 2 0 gauge grounds to 1 0 gauge power.
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I have no idea what gauge the wire is right now, the current amp is max 960w and the new ones combined are almost 2kw. About double the wattage. The ground from the battery to the chassis is stock...
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What outputs does your headend have? Some will have a seperate subwoofer output. If you're gettign the Phoenix Gold Cotane 5.0:4 is has a full-range signal loop through to feed to your subwoofer amplifier. The matching mono subwoofer amplifier has the proper 18 dB variable low pass filter to drive the subwoofer correctly.
How big is the cable you've got run to your current amplifier? How big (how many watts) are the amplifiers that you're buying? Without knowing that I could only guess on if your current wire is heavy enough to drive the new amplifiers.
How big is the cable you've got run to your current amplifier? How big (how many watts) are the amplifiers that you're buying? Without knowing that I could only guess on if your current wire is heavy enough to drive the new amplifiers.
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Alright - definitely upgrade that stock ground wire - that will get you in trouble fast.
Secondly - what amp do you have now and what 2 are you getting? I'll look up the specs for you. Watts don't tell **** thanks to every manufacturer going crazy on power ratings. Support CES2006 to solve this problem and to stop crappy audio makers from making outrageous claims!
Secondly - what amp do you have now and what 2 are you getting? I'll look up the specs for you. Watts don't tell **** thanks to every manufacturer going crazy on power ratings. Support CES2006 to solve this problem and to stop crappy audio makers from making outrageous claims!
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Current amp: Eclipse PA5532
New amps: Phoenix Gold Octane-R 8.0:4
Phoenix Gold Octane-R 15.0:1
What should I replace the stock ground wire with? I'm guessing I'll need to run new power wire so do I need to run 2 or can I just run one and splice it?
New amps: Phoenix Gold Octane-R 8.0:4
Phoenix Gold Octane-R 15.0:1
What should I replace the stock ground wire with? I'm guessing I'll need to run new power wire so do I need to run 2 or can I just run one and splice it?
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Alright - first off - PGs online support sucks bigtime. If their manual they show online is all that comes with the amp shame on them - 2 big thumbs down.
Anyway, Here's what I could figure out.
Eclipse Amp fuse req = 80amp
PG 8.0/4 = 40amp
PG 15.0/1 = 80amp
This means you're going to need to up your fuse to at least 120amp. You can get away with using a 4 gauge power wire for both amps but if it was me I'd go for 0 gauge - safety first. Anyway - assuming you now have a 4 guage power wire (if not who ever installed it should be flogged) stick with it and up the fuse rating near the battery (remember 18 inches max from the battery). Run 2 4 gauge wires from the battery to the ground and run 2 4 gauge ground wires from the amp to the chassis. Of course this is assuming what I found for the amp ratings of the amps is correct (shame on PG for not making that info well published).
Anyway, Here's what I could figure out.
Eclipse Amp fuse req = 80amp
PG 8.0/4 = 40amp
PG 15.0/1 = 80amp
This means you're going to need to up your fuse to at least 120amp. You can get away with using a 4 gauge power wire for both amps but if it was me I'd go for 0 gauge - safety first. Anyway - assuming you now have a 4 guage power wire (if not who ever installed it should be flogged) stick with it and up the fuse rating near the battery (remember 18 inches max from the battery). Run 2 4 gauge wires from the battery to the ground and run 2 4 gauge ground wires from the amp to the chassis. Of course this is assuming what I found for the amp ratings of the amps is correct (shame on PG for not making that info well published).
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Originally Posted by LS350Z
Alright - first off - PGs online support sucks bigtime. If their manual they show online is all that comes with the amp shame on them - 2 big thumbs down.
Anyway, Here's what I could figure out.
Eclipse Amp fuse req = 80amp
PG 8.0/4 = 40amp
PG 15.0/1 = 80amp
This means you're going to need to up your fuse to at least 120amp. You can get away with using a 4 gauge power wire for both amps but if it was me I'd go for 0 gauge - safety first. Anyway - assuming you now have a 4 guage power wire (if not who ever installed it should be flogged) stick with it and up the fuse rating near the battery (remember 18 inches max from the battery). Run 2 4 gauge wires from the battery to the ground and run 2 4 gauge ground wires from the amp to the chassis. Of course this is assuming what I found for the amp ratings of the amps is correct (shame on PG for not making that info well published).
Anyway, Here's what I could figure out.
Eclipse Amp fuse req = 80amp
PG 8.0/4 = 40amp
PG 15.0/1 = 80amp
This means you're going to need to up your fuse to at least 120amp. You can get away with using a 4 gauge power wire for both amps but if it was me I'd go for 0 gauge - safety first. Anyway - assuming you now have a 4 guage power wire (if not who ever installed it should be flogged) stick with it and up the fuse rating near the battery (remember 18 inches max from the battery). Run 2 4 gauge wires from the battery to the ground and run 2 4 gauge ground wires from the amp to the chassis. Of course this is assuming what I found for the amp ratings of the amps is correct (shame on PG for not making that info well published).
Im pretty sure I have 4 awg wire but am not totally sure...will check in the morning. Things is...I can't seem to find an in-line fuse? Where should I ground the battery to the chassis? Any certain place?
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I think you can double ground it on the stock ground position. If I remember correctly there's a 2 bolt strip that connects the stock wire to the chassis. Definitely check on the power wire. I'll check out CD/SD tomorrow at work and look for info on your 2 amps. I've always been happy with CD/SD info/service/etc... I know I buy a lot of wire from them.
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Ok, so I currently have 4 awg wire for power and ground. Will this be ok or should I upgrade it to 0 awg? Can someone help me get a parts list going for this?
With a distribution block I run one power and one ground to it, then it gives me X number of power/ground outputs right? And what exactly should I do about the stock ground? Replace it with a 0 awg wire or just add to it?
With a distribution block I run one power and one ground to it, then it gives me X number of power/ground outputs right? And what exactly should I do about the stock ground? Replace it with a 0 awg wire or just add to it?
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If you have a a 4 gauge power wire you shouldn't need to replace it unless you really go with more power then the 2 amps you're looking at. Run the 4 gauge wire to the back of the car into a 4/8 gauge distribution block. Run an 8 gauge wire to each amp. Just run the ground wires directly from the amp to the chassis - no distribution block is necessary.
I'd definitely recommend though running a secondary 4 gauge ground wire from the battery to the chassis.
I'd definitely recommend though running a secondary 4 gauge ground wire from the battery to the chassis.
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One more thing...which is better and/or which do I need?
---Distribution Blocks
Distributes power or ground to one or more amplifiers.
or
---Fuse Distribution Blocks
Distributes fuse-protected power to one or more amplifiers.
---Distribution Blocks
Distributes power or ground to one or more amplifiers.
or
---Fuse Distribution Blocks
Distributes fuse-protected power to one or more amplifiers.
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Fused is better then unfused always but I can honestly say I've never used a fused distribution block so whatever really. I always run an ANL fuse within 12" of my battery and one before my distribution block (if I have one) - I've never found a fused distribution block that I like.
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So it doesn't hurt to have more than one fuse on the line? My current amp. has 2 fuses that are in the side of it but I have yet to find an in-line fuse.
I guess I should just put on in. Instead of putting one high rated fuse in front of the block could I just put 2(one on each 8 awg) lower rated ones in line before the amps?
I guess I should just put on in. Instead of putting one high rated fuse in front of the block could I just put 2(one on each 8 awg) lower rated ones in line before the amps?
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If your amp has built in fuses I wouldn't even bother with a fuse other then the one within 18" of the battery. It can never hurt to have an extra in-line fuse but IMO 2 fuses is needed for every system - 1 within 18" of battery and 1 within 18" of amp (if the amp doesn't have a built in fuse).
My 350Z goes - Battery - Fuse (100amp) - 4 gauge wire (from firewall to trunk) - fuse (100amp) - Amp.
My Honda goes - Battery - Fuse (300amp) - 0 gauge wire (from firewall to trunk) - fuse (300amp) - distribution block - 2 amps (and actually both amps have built in fuses now that I think about it but in my defense I just got these 2 new amps).
The Z has 2 4 gauge grounds and the Honda has 1 0 gauge and 1 4 gauge ground.
My 350Z goes - Battery - Fuse (100amp) - 4 gauge wire (from firewall to trunk) - fuse (100amp) - Amp.
My Honda goes - Battery - Fuse (300amp) - 0 gauge wire (from firewall to trunk) - fuse (300amp) - distribution block - 2 amps (and actually both amps have built in fuses now that I think about it but in my defense I just got these 2 new amps).
The Z has 2 4 gauge grounds and the Honda has 1 0 gauge and 1 4 gauge ground.
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