Good news is that I have a V1 on it's way, should be here by early next week with Mike's mount to boot. I did a search on something I heard that is used for a hardwire and it's called a fusetap. I'v tried to read as much as I can about hardwiring in to the fusebox on drivers side, but I'm still a bit confused.

1- If I strip the end of a wire and attach cig lighter fuse, which side of fuse peg should I use? I heard that it DOES make a difference which side you use.

2- Is it safe to use the Direct Wire Power Adapter to an ignition wire like in the image below?

Seems kind of ez, but I'm a lot better on the mechanical side of things. That's why I asked if it's better to use the fusetap.

 

Cool, just installed my V1 along with Mike Peronek's mount. Tested the V1 and it works great, the arrows are what really separates this RD from all the others.

I used the Add A Circuit which really made the install much easier, make sure you buy the Mini version and not the ATO because it will not fit in the fuse slot on the Z. No soldering or splicing involved, just simple hand tools. All you need to do is crimp the red power wire into the blue end of the tap and yer done.

 

You can put a fuse holder in-line with the V1 to protect it's wire from damage if you'd like or tap into one already protected by a factory fuse.

Fuses aren't going to save your V1 ... but will instead save the power wire from burning or possibly the car. A little bit of current is enough to 'splode the IC's inside the V1 ... something a fuse isn't even going to notice. They've likely got a bit of a circuit inside the V1 to condition the power very slightly and probably fuse resistors made to 'splode to protect the more expensive circuits beyond them.

What a fuse does is look for massive power over currents of several seconds long before popping. The theory being that a correctly sized electrical fuse will melt long before the wire over heats and starts smoking (165-190 degrees for common wire). If you tap into the power (cigerette lighter) +12VDC you're protected by the stock fuse from burning up the car with your V1 if it were to short out.

Tapping into a smaller amperage circuit puts you closer to the safer margin - hense the recommendation to mount a second dedicated V1 fuse. This guy could be a tiny 1 amp fuse that would pop in half a heart beat if the power lead down stream of it shorted. The power outlet is probably an 8 or 10 amp fuse which would take about 3/4 of a heart beat to pop under a short circuit.

If you're running big **** wires directly from the battery to an amplifier or two you have to have a fuse mounted as close to the battery as possible. My 100 amp main fuse is attached to the post with a 8' lenght of wire. That protects the cable (and the car) running down the side of the car. Each amplifier is further protected internally by a pair of local 30 amp fuses.

 

who is this mike guy and where can i buy his mount? does he have a website or something? thanks

 

Here is the mount for the escort, but Mike also makes a mount for the V1 which basically looks the same. It works great and looks nice. No messing around with suctions cups. He accepts payment by PayPal and you can find him in here by searching Mike3348 or mikes mount.

 

cool. is the 'z' a sticker i can remove? i have a g35.

 

it's probably best to contact him, he may be able to make one w/o the Z emblem.

 

kidg35,
No problem making the mounts without the "Z" sticker. I have sold a number of mounts for the G35's. PM me for details.
Mike Peronek