jdg345

Okay, I'm trying to build something up to replace the stock system for a ZR. The first question I have is: What in the world are the speaker sizes? I tried crutchfield for 'What Fits' and according to them I can put 5-1/2's in the Front w/ 1" Tweeters and 6-1/2" in the back ... however ... when I look at the car, it looks like the bigger speaker fits in the door panel.

This is what I'm thinking about so far, suggestions would be much appreciated:

- Head Units
Pioneer AVIC-Z1 : I don't want to wait, so this probably won't happen.
Kenwood DDX-7017 : Frontrunner currently.
Pioneer AVIC-D1 : Maybe
Eclipse AVN5495 : Maybe, this looks great ... but I'm told the screen brightness isn't that great compared to the Kenwood and Pioneer. Brightness is an issue since it's a ZR.

- Sub in Stock Enclosure
Alpine SWE-1042 : What in the world is the difference between SWE/S/N/etc?
Rockford Fosgate P110S4
JL Audio 10w3

- Front Speakers
Infinity Components -- Size?? -- I've always been partial to Infinity ...
Focal Components -- Size?? -- These sound good, but not sure if that much better to justify the cost ... are they more durable than Infinity?

- Rear Speakers
Infinity : Same as Front
Focal : Same as Front

- Amplifier
Phoenix Gold XS6600
Audison LRX5600

I only want one amplifier to run the (4) sets of speakers and the 10" Sub so I'm thinking I need either a 5 or a 6 Channel. I also want to put the amp either under one of the seats or in the passenger box ... anyone have any thoughts on this?

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated ... I'm trying to narrow things down so I can start purchasing so I can get the install completed by the end of the month.

Thanks all!

jdg345

Another couple of thoughts:

Will either of those amps be enough to power everything? I'm thinking that if I go with the JL Audio 10w3 in the Stock Enclosure, it comes in 2-ohm, 4-ohm, and 6-ohm configurations -- what really is the difference? other than I get 'more power' the lower the ohm rating?

Most of the Component Speakers are 4-ohm though, and the Coaxials are 2-ohm ... can I mix like that with either of those amplifiers?

As an option, I suppose I can use the amplifier to power the sub and the fronts and then use the Head Unit to power the rears only ... but if I do that, should I use a completely different amplifier?

Thoughts ... suggestions ... ideas ... ?

THE TECH

iTrader: (154)

From a subwoofer perspective, anything in the stock location will be a waste of money and time. If you want decent sound, you will need something in a quality speaker box. Add to the fact that the stock woofer is not aimed well for the type of car that we have.

As far as front speakers go, you can use 5.25 or 6.50 speakers, but many of the aftermarket ones are much larger in depth and you may have issues with fitment. Most suggest getting the Nazar / Wicked CAS door pods.

6.50" will definitely work for the rear ones.

jdg345

Thanks for the info! Isn't there a way to modify the stock enclosure to better seal it, etc? Also, I'm not sure what you mean about the aiming ... I thought subwoofers could be placed anywhere since they weren't 'directional' ?

Also, I'm lost on these ohm ratings ... the 6.5" Infinity Components are rated at 4-ohm ... that's cool ... no problem, the Phoenix Gold and Audison are both Stereo 4x50/60 at 4-ohms ... However, the 6.5" 3-Way Coaxials for Infinity (and the respect JL Counterparts) are 2-ohm ... don't you need these figures to match? I have to buy the Reference 6012I's if I want 4-ohm 6.5" rears ... or am I missing something?

The Pheonix Gold XS6600 can do 4-ohm Stereo for the sub output at 25/75 x 2 ... or 4-ohm bridged at 300x1, so I think I'll go with the JL Audio 10w3 @ 4-ohms instead.

Will 15.25"x12.25"x2.1" fit in the passenger glove box?

How hard are those Wicked CAS door pods to install? Could I get these things installed in the door panel and then do the pods later?

jdg345

Okay ... just looking at my HU options and figured that if I have 5.1 available, why not use it ... do I need a special amp for that? Or can the 8017 take care of the center channel on its own? If not, what about the Audiobahn A5100T?

Thoughts?

pingrr

I'm not sure if the space in the compartments behind the seats is the same for the ZR and Coupe. If they are have you considered using the Infinity Basslink. It will fit in the stock sub compartment. The basslink is a powered sub with built in 250w amplifier.

I would not recomend powering the center channel with the Head unit. The speaker will most likley end up getting about half the power as the others.(most HU only put out about 25w rms) In a 5.1 setup most of the voices come from the center channel. This channel should't get any less power than the other speakers for optimal sound imaging.

jdg345

But do I need the amp to be specifically a 5.1 'enabled' amp like the Audiobahn, or can I use any 5-6 Channel Amp?

I'll do some research on the Basslink ... is that what you're using?

pingrr

I have the basslink. It sounds very good. It will provide a very full clean bass throughout the car.

However if you want somthing to impress the car beside you this is not the solution for you.

05-Z

iTrader: (4)

Definitely stay away from the stock location. Check out the custom boxes on ebay or consider the Nazar fiberglass box.

jdg345

I don't know that the Nazar solution fits in the ZR?

VO...

iTrader: (25)

behind the seat is a poor place to enclose a sub, whether it be a free-air of sealed enclosure. I have a few friends that have this set up, and are not satisfied with it. As far as the amp goes, do yourself a favor, get one amp to run the sub. Configure it how ever you want, run the mids/highs either off another amp or the HU. You'll have better versatility with the sub output. Class D amplifiers will give you the most bang for your buck, with lower power consumption, for your sub. Purchase a sub amp that is rated at 2ohms or lower, stability. Chose a sub that is equivalant. You'll be happier runner lower ohmage on the sub. Again, more bang for your buck.......

Door speakers. You can run 6 1/2's just fine. You'll need a 1 inch spacer. They cost a couple of dollars @ Parts Express.com You'll be able to mount your door speakers without having to spend the money on fancy pods. Make sure to dynamat the doors too.

jdg345

Many Thanks! What does the Dynamat do for me? Just keeps the vibration down? The Phoenix Gold is 2-ohm stable, but they recommend a cap (min 1 farad) and 4ga wire.

Which brings up a question ... do I need a cap for something like this? single or dual-amp ... and what cap is recommended these days if so?

In the meantime, I'm going to see if there is a sub box that will fit my car without eating up the little bit of trunk space I have ...

Thanks again!

VO...

iTrader: (25)

1. Dynamat reduces rattle on the outside of the car. It also keeps the sound inside the vehicle when you want the windows up and no one else to listen on the outside. Dynomat will drasically increase the listening pleasure of the music, inside and out. You don't want your system sounding ghetto, with the trunk rattling down the street. Do it right the first time.

2. Capacitor- Rule of thumb is, 1 Farad for every 1000watts RMS. While there is a lot of debate as to how much the capacitor actually works, you can run a capacitor if you want to relieve your alternator from the burden of supply raw current to your amp. Capacitors also aid in reducing flickering lights in your vehicle, due to hug power consumptions drawn on by sub amps.

3. Sub- I put mine in the spare tire well. Here is a custom enclosure I built. A friend of mine shot this picture.

jdg345

Nice ... !!! and thanks! Will that work for the ZR also? I'm trying to conserve trunk space and I'm not sure if that would make the trunk non-useable. How much Dynamat do I need? Approx? To do the Doors and Trunk? 20 SQF? 30?

VO...

iTrader: (25)

Sorry, I didn't realize you had a roadster. No the enclosure I have will not work for you. You might just have to suck it up and go with the "behind the seat" enclosure.
Dynamat- I'm not too sure how much you need. I used 2 rolls, but forgot the square footage. I used generic stuff from PartsExpress.com. It's a heck of a lot cheaper that the real Dynomat. Overall, I used a combination of Dynomat and spray-in-bedliner. You can pick the spray-in @ Pepboys. It's real cheap and works good. It dries over night and covers all crevices without the pain of having to mold the dynomat. I sprayed one entire door, then dynomatted the other, there is no difference in sound or rattle. The trunk got a double coat of bed-liner, then a single layer of dynomat. The top half of the hatch gets a single layer of dynomat. Make sure to lay a layer behind the lisence plate also. But again, this only applies for 30 coupes.

jdg345

Thanks again! They have a 'Trunk Xtreme Kit' that should be enough to do my doors and the miscellaneous items here and there. Do you remember the name of the spray-in bedliner you picked up? I'm going to go by PepBoys on my way home if I can ...

VO...

iTrader: (25)

I don't remember the name, but you'll find it over by the spray paints. Caution! That stuff is extremely messy. Wear latex gloves and clothes you don't care about. Lay tarps everywhere and put masking tape on stuff your don't want painted. FYI, I used about 1 1/2 cans per door. This stuff doesn't spray out in a fine mist. It comes out like snot from your nose. Sorry to be graphic, but it was the only analogy I could think of. Another thing, when the stuff starts dribbling all over you hand, instead of spraying straight out in front of the nozzle, it's time to shake the can or just get a new can. You won't use all the contents in the entire can, so don't even try. There will always be about 1/3 can left over.

Easiest way to lay dynomat is to place the entire sheet on the area you wish to cover, then cut out holes/ect. with sharp razor knife. Use the butt end of a screwdriver to press the dynomatt into crevices.

jdg345

You might be my new hero! Thanks so much! Component updates to follow ... trying to figure out the biggest difference between the 10w3 and the 10w1 Subs ... here's to hoping for a WickedCas solution ...

VO...

iTrader: (25)

10W1 = http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_s...p?series_id=15

10W3 = http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_s...p?series_id=11

350ztoronto

iTrader: (10)

the basslink sub for the roadster do you just pull out the stock bose subwoofer and put the basslink in with the built in amp? i was also plannin to put a jl 10w3 in stock sub does anyone have a link to the product??