Anyone that has sub behind driver seat
02-02-2006, 06:31 PM
#41
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Originally Posted by sundevil67
Do you have pictures of this setup? You guys keep swaying me back and forth! 
I am willing to sacrifice some sound quality to keep the grocery space under my strut bar, but I don't want it to sound like a$$! This is what I want to do - I can't remember if I posted it already....I wish the guy whose system this is would weigh in here - but I can't remember where I got the pic.
I am willing to sacrifice some sound quality to keep the grocery space under my strut bar, but I don't want it to sound like a$$! This is what I want to do - I can't remember if I posted it already....I wish the guy whose system this is would weigh in here - but I can't remember where I got the pic.http://home.comcast.net/~jcage89/
02-03-2006, 08:36 PM
#43
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where can you get the 5/8 MDF board? I went to lowes and home depot and the closest both of them had were 3/4 MDF board...Can I make an enclosure with the 3/4? I figure the dimensions would be a little different so if anyone has gone with that please post. thanks
02-03-2006, 10:40 PM
#44
Sorry, night shifts getting me down. I'll get pics as soon as I can!
Pioneer tsw256c subs. They're not free air subs.
The bass kicks the **** off the bose stereo. Physically feels like three times the bass, with surprisingly good low frequency extension.
Alpine S type splits front and back kick even more **** off the bose stereo.
Pioneer head unit kicks **** too
Just keep in mind after putting in amplified splits front and back the bass was already louder and clearer than the 7 speaker bose WITHOUT using any subs!
Fair enough. I agree with everything you're saying, and i know I'm breaking a lot of laws regarding subwoofers.
I still like to have the Look of 2 subs in stock location (its so NEAT there! non 350z owners always get jealous!) and the weight saving of no added box, while still being able to have decent bass. I realise the acoustics are Far from perfect, but given the circumstances (breaking rules of speaker positioning, using metal boxes, using subs in 5cu ft, having air leaks around the seat belt holes / holes to clip panels into) you really have to let exact science go and just see how it sounds. I'm happy with the result. I'm also providing an option for those with roadsters, those who need maximum boot space, and those who are really **** about shaving off weight (Me).
Originally Posted by camaro194
Are they free-air subs? How would you compare your setup to the bose stereo?
The bass kicks the **** off the bose stereo. Physically feels like three times the bass, with surprisingly good low frequency extension.
Alpine S type splits front and back kick even more **** off the bose stereo.
Pioneer head unit kicks **** too
Just keep in mind after putting in amplified splits front and back the bass was already louder and clearer than the 7 speaker bose WITHOUT using any subs!
Originally Posted by dream724Z
>The main benefit is saving on all the weight +++ MDF of Two enclosures.
Why would you need two enclosures? My single sub strut www.zenclosures.com weighs under 23#. The only way to put two 10" speakers in the stock location for a lower net weight is using low power open air subs. High-power fidelity subs require a sealed enclosure. Instead of using two low power subs, get an awesome sub/enclosure for the best fidelity. There's no free lunch.
Why would you need two enclosures? My single sub strut www.zenclosures.com weighs under 23#. The only way to put two 10" speakers in the stock location for a lower net weight is using low power open air subs. High-power fidelity subs require a sealed enclosure. Instead of using two low power subs, get an awesome sub/enclosure for the best fidelity. There's no free lunch.
I still like to have the Look of 2 subs in stock location (its so NEAT there! non 350z owners always get jealous!) and the weight saving of no added box, while still being able to have decent bass. I realise the acoustics are Far from perfect, but given the circumstances (breaking rules of speaker positioning, using metal boxes, using subs in 5cu ft, having air leaks around the seat belt holes / holes to clip panels into) you really have to let exact science go and just see how it sounds. I'm happy with the result. I'm also providing an option for those with roadsters, those who need maximum boot space, and those who are really **** about shaving off weight (Me).
Last edited by tienlo; 02-03-2006 at 10:59 PM.
02-04-2006, 02:06 AM
#46
Originally Posted by lololepro
Tienlo can you show me pics of your install please... I have a roadster so limited options for install...
Very easy install, I just used stock 10" subwoofer brackets (bought an extra one for the other side from nissan) and LOTS of dynamat.
Dynamatted the inside of the metal boxes to make it as airtight as possible (but the hole where the seatbelt comes through was left untouched... call it a port if you like
)Secured the subs onto the speaker bracket with nuts & bolts.
Dynamatted all the plastic panels around the rear speakers coz they were rattling badly.
02-04-2006, 04:53 AM
#47
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I have a JL 10W3v2 in a custom board and fiberglass enclosure in the stock location powered by a JL 250 watt amp. I have a roadster. It sounds just fine. Most of the time the sub is turned down from it's neutral setting. An alternative location in the coupe is to mount the sub in the spare tire well, but then, of course, you lose your spare tire. I actually mounted my amp in the spare tire well, since the spare won't clear my BBK anyway. Mid-trunk box may sound a bit better, but the stock location cartainly doesn't "suck" as bad as some would exaggerate.
02-04-2006, 07:56 AM
#48
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>I have a JL 10W3v2 in a custom board and fiberglass enclosure in the stock location powered by a JL 250 watt amp. I have a roadster. <
Your Roadster config is optimally matched! Several Z Pro shops recommended your config for the stock sub constraint. They stated a more powerful amp/sub in the A-frame is wasted on rattling plastic and sub flapping noise. I decided to make the strut earn its way.
Your Roadster config is optimally matched! Several Z Pro shops recommended your config for the stock sub constraint. They stated a more powerful amp/sub in the A-frame is wasted on rattling plastic and sub flapping noise. I decided to make the strut earn its way.
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