Do you believe in same brand amp to match speakers?
How many of you believe that you should have the same brand manufacturer for your amps and speakers?
here is the links for the speakers I have.
http://www.polkaudio.com/caraudio/products/mmc6500/
http://www.polkaudio.com/caraudio/products/mmc650/
I was thinking of going with the Polk amp to match, what do you guys think?
http://www.polkaudio.com/caraudio/products/c400_4/
I've heard that it doesn't matter if you use the same brand, and I have heard that you should. And I'm sure I'll here both sides again here, but I was just wondering out of couriosity. For the experts, please take a minute and look at the power ratings on speakers and amp and let me know if this will be a good set-up. Thanks!
here is the links for the speakers I have.
http://www.polkaudio.com/caraudio/products/mmc6500/
http://www.polkaudio.com/caraudio/products/mmc650/
I was thinking of going with the Polk amp to match, what do you guys think?
http://www.polkaudio.com/caraudio/products/c400_4/
I've heard that it doesn't matter if you use the same brand, and I have heard that you should. And I'm sure I'll here both sides again here, but I was just wondering out of couriosity. For the experts, please take a minute and look at the power ratings on speakers and amp and let me know if this will be a good set-up. Thanks!
Last edited by Jason021174; Jan 23, 2006 at 03:14 AM.
I beleive in Keeping the Electonics the Same Brand and the Speakers the Same Brand, Matched to their Class for best results.
More Importantly is matching RMS Power of your Amps to RMS power of your Speakers.
More Importantly is matching RMS Power of your Amps to RMS power of your Speakers.
im running both polkmomo amps 500.1 and 300.2 along with mm650 comps in the front and 2 polk momo 10's in the rear,the amps are not only strong but are clean,i would highly recc.going with that amp
hmm.. I understand why people want to keep the same brand, I do, But I'm working with a budget here. And I'm very satisfied with my set up I'll try to post pics in the audo section. Also if you put your amp in the storage or behine the driver seat. No one will ever see it. But i would try to keep the speakers all the same. Some amps are better than others.
i used to like the whole keeping the same brand idea, but that was about 10 years ago...
since hten, i have realized that if youa re trying to achieve the best results, be it best value for dollar, or best overall performance regardless of budget, you will in most cases be limiting ourself if you for some reason wnat to stick to the same brand.
there are just so muchgood equipment out there, and some manufactuerers, while they hav great value in say their sepaker line, dont neccessarily hae the ame for their amp line or sub line.
i always say open you mind to more brand mixing, and you will realize the possiblities...
b
since hten, i have realized that if youa re trying to achieve the best results, be it best value for dollar, or best overall performance regardless of budget, you will in most cases be limiting ourself if you for some reason wnat to stick to the same brand.
there are just so muchgood equipment out there, and some manufactuerers, while they hav great value in say their sepaker line, dont neccessarily hae the ame for their amp line or sub line.
i always say open you mind to more brand mixing, and you will realize the possiblities...

b
Last edited by 16psibrick; Jan 23, 2006 at 07:55 AM.
Speakers and amps require very different design expertise.
So it's a fallacy buying the same brand's S&A will sound great.
You need to research each amp's specs & reviews to gage if
its fidelity strengths matches your desires. Granted that's
very tough without hearing them. When they are bolted
in the honeymoon may end abruptly.
I am green about this amp's active component crossover feature.
To use it you'll need to run new tweeter speaker wire and throw
away your passive Xovers. That saves weight!
One Reviewer claimed it gets hot, so mount it with airflow.
So it's a fallacy buying the same brand's S&A will sound great.
You need to research each amp's specs & reviews to gage if
its fidelity strengths matches your desires. Granted that's
very tough without hearing them. When they are bolted
in the honeymoon may end abruptly.
I am green about this amp's active component crossover feature.
To use it you'll need to run new tweeter speaker wire and throw
away your passive Xovers. That saves weight!
One Reviewer claimed it gets hot, so mount it with airflow.
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I am a huge fan of JL Audio subs which is good because I love their amps. Gotta love RIPS, constant RMS power between 1.5ohm and 4ohm AND between 14.4 volts and 11.5 volts. What other amplifier manufacturers have that?
acutally a few others did that, infact, PPI had an amp that did that about 6-10 years ago. and it uses relatively the same principle as the JL.
but the JL amps are REALLY nice, there is now a few other manufactues that offers constant powre output regardless of impedance, but they use different methods to achieve it.
manville smith of JL led a discussion of this a while back
b
but the JL amps are REALLY nice, there is now a few other manufactues that offers constant powre output regardless of impedance, but they use different methods to achieve it.
manville smith of JL led a discussion of this a while back

b
Originally Posted by 16psibrick
acutally a few others did that, infact, PPI had an amp that did that about 6-10 years ago. and it uses relatively the same principle as the JL.
jl is one fo the few companies that you can really build a fantastic sounding system wtih all their component ther than HU and proccessor
and not having to wondering pehraps you could have done a lot better wtiht he same amount of money spent
b
and not having to wondering pehraps you could have done a lot better wtiht he same amount of money spentb
I wouldn't care one way or another personally.
The whole sound is about the speakers - at least about 85% of it.
I wouldn't think of buying Denon, Nakamachi, or Yamaha speakers for the house not would I buy a JBL, B&K, VMPS, or Pardyme amplifier. It's hard to do both ends as they are very different disiplines. In car stereos the demands are lower so it's possible, plus there's not the market to support the uber-high end stuff like in home systems.
Oddly enough I bought my Infinity front speakers because they sound good with my music. Their amplifiers were the cheapest bang-for-the-buck quality wise and were the right size to fit in the sub-woofer cavity.
The whole sound is about the speakers - at least about 85% of it.
I wouldn't think of buying Denon, Nakamachi, or Yamaha speakers for the house not would I buy a JBL, B&K, VMPS, or Pardyme amplifier. It's hard to do both ends as they are very different disiplines. In car stereos the demands are lower so it's possible, plus there's not the market to support the uber-high end stuff like in home systems.
Oddly enough I bought my Infinity front speakers because they sound good with my music. Their amplifiers were the cheapest bang-for-the-buck quality wise and were the right size to fit in the sub-woofer cavity.
I think Paul said pretty much what I was thinking. there may be a few companies out there who I would buy subs or amps from, but there's no one I'd buy mids and highs and electronics from. In general, I like North American and European speakers, while the Asians, especially the Japanese, tend to build the amps I prefer. This is even more prevelant in home audio equipment, but feel it carries over to mobile audio as well.
Bottom line...it makes no difference if your speakers match the amps as far as manufacturer goes. That's just silly unless you're doing it for the show aspect. Back in the day, I was a huge fan of Alpine electronics, but I wouldn't buy an Alpine speaker if you gave it to me for a dollar.
Bottom line...it makes no difference if your speakers match the amps as far as manufacturer goes. That's just silly unless you're doing it for the show aspect. Back in the day, I was a huge fan of Alpine electronics, but I wouldn't buy an Alpine speaker if you gave it to me for a dollar.
Polk's >100dbA noise spec also caught my attention
recently while system shopping. Fortunately I had the
luxury to ask an expert Audiophile friend this same question.
He replied, don't be biased by specmanship, you must
hear it to know if it is great. There are a lot of soso,
pretty amps, but only a few with great fidelity....
The best fidelity amp recommendations:
#1 www.precisionpower.com
#2 www.rockfordfosgate.com
I just installed these, fronts-PPI200.2, and sub-FG500.1
Every system component has a different logo and the
resulting sound fidelity rivals my home system!
Either hear it first, be tone deaf or take advice from a Pro.
recently while system shopping. Fortunately I had the
luxury to ask an expert Audiophile friend this same question.
He replied, don't be biased by specmanship, you must
hear it to know if it is great. There are a lot of soso,
pretty amps, but only a few with great fidelity....
The best fidelity amp recommendations:
#1 www.precisionpower.com
#2 www.rockfordfosgate.com
I just installed these, fronts-PPI200.2, and sub-FG500.1
Every system component has a different logo and the
resulting sound fidelity rivals my home system!
Either hear it first, be tone deaf or take advice from a Pro.
Last edited by dream724Z; Jan 23, 2006 at 08:11 PM.
Thanks for all the input. I believe I will be going with the Polk amp anyway. Not that I am trying to be loyal, but I would like to think that the amp was engineered to work with their own speakers.
Also keep in mind that as soon as you turn the car on every signal to noise spec is now measured against a very healthy 287-300 horses and too thin sound deadening. These Z's are not made by Rolls Royce, heck, they're not even made like a Lexus so the road noise of the tires and suspension adds to the motor and exhaust to bring the noise floor up to what + 50-60 dB? The worst radio ever designed will sound wonderful with 30-40 dB worth of music on top of that noise.
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