A little how-to for those who may be hesitating on purchasing a VDC-OFF module.

As an aside, this was my second time exploring panels in the Z, and my first time exploring the panels on the driver side. Just FYI to show you how easy this mod is to do.

I used a PDF 2004.5 service manual for reference. Note: The 2006 dashboard (and perhaps others) do not allow you to remove only the VDC switch. Removing the knee-panel is required.

I am an amateur car electronics and wiring hobbyist. I used regular hand tools and a soldering iron.

Total install time was about 2.5 hours and I was really going slow and taking my time.

Install difficulty is a 2/5
Module usefulness: 5/5 This thing is great!

I did not take any pictures but they are unnecessary. I may scan the corresponding service manual exploded views and add to this procedure if folks need it.

Tools:
Small/Medium Phillips screwdriver
Small Flat-blade screwdriver
Large Flat-blade screwdriver
Wire cutters
Wire strippers
Soldering iron and solder
Electrical tape
Shrink wrap (optional)
Zip-ties
3M VHB or similar double-sided high-temp tape
Patience
Steady-hand

Parts: 1a Inline fuse from Radio Shack

I use terms like "enough room to work" when I describe cutting wires. If you don't know what this means when you look at the work area then you should not attempt this mod. Find someone more comfortable with wiring to do it for you. A six-pack is more than enough compensation for this job.

Only a few steps (350Z install):
1. Remove the plastic kick plate trim. It is secured by the usual automotive clips. Lift the rear end of the trim piece up and slightly back to unlock. Then gently pop each clip out from back-to-front, working up the curve of the door panel. The last clip pops straight out horizontally.

2. Unscrew the four corner and single center screws on the dead pedal/foot-rest. Remove the silver trim plate. Turn the two plastic locks CCW 90-180 deg until you hear each one click. It may take a few turns to completely loosen the locks off of the mounting screws protruding from the floor. Remove the foot rest.

3. Remove the kick-panel and fuse-box cover. First remove the plastic nut on the floorboard. You can use your hand to do this. Then pop the panel from the rear. Again, it is held in with the usual clips so pull gently and horizontally towards the rear of the car.

4. Remove the driver-side knee panel. Unscrew 1 screw on the bottom left corner. The screw you remove is the left-most screw. You do not need to remove the second screw from the left because this holds a different panel. You may choose to remove the two screws securing the OBD2 connector to release the connector from the panel and provide more room during soldering. The knee panel is now only held in place with several clips. Each corner has a clip. Just gently pull horizontally on the top surfaces and vertically downward on the bottom surfaces. Take care not to let the knee-panel edges scratch other surfaces in the car. You will need to use your finger and gently pry back the soft pliable weatherstripping that covers a corner of the knee-panel to free it.

5. Locate the VDC button plug. Using a small flat-blade screwdriver perpendicular to the passenger-side of the plug, push in the small release pin and slide out the plug.

6. Using small scissors carefully cut the black plastic wire loom to expose the VDC plug's individual wires. Cut enough plastic loom away to give yourself plenty of room to work.

7. Using your soldering iron, add a Y-split to the orange wire and to the black wire on the VDC module. There is enough wire on the VDC module to cut off a length, split it in half, then reattach both pieces to the original VDC module wire. This will create the Y-split you need at the end of each wire. Do not create a split for the yellow power wire.

8. Cut the blue/yellow wire on the VDC switch inside the car. Be sure to cut at a point so you have enough room to work. Place shrink wrap, strip, solder, and connect the orange Y-split into the blue/yellow wire. Use electrical tape and/or shrink wrap to protect the connections.

9. Repeat for the black wire. Black goes to black.

10. Add the inline fuse to the yellow wire then connect the yellow wire into the fusebox. I used the 15a Cig lighter fuse. Just pull the fuse, take the yellow wire, strip it, wrap the stripped end around the metal plug on the fuse, then reinsert the fuse. This method of obtaining 12v power seems to work every time so far. But I never leave the key in the "On" position. If you turn straight to cranking every time then you should not encounter issues. Time will tell.

11. Attach the VDC module to the body of the car, behind the fusebox and main harness. 3M VHB double-sided tape is useful for this. Tidy up your wiring ensuring that no wiring can come in contact with moving parts or with your feet. Use Zip-ties to help keep wiring out of the way.

12. Plug the modified VDC cable back into the dashboard VDC switch.

13. Reinstall the knee-panel taking care not to pinch any wires. Note: If you removed the OBD2 connector it easier to reinstall it by attaching it to the knee-panel before reinstalling the knee-panel to the dashboard.

14. Reinstall the foot rest and remaining panels in reverse order from installation.

15. Start your car. A few seconds after the engine cranks the glorious "VDC OFF" light should illuminate. Now you may remove the sticky-note reminder from your steering wheel.


I know this sort of writeup has been done before. But there are lots of questions scattered in this forum and across other forums about the details. So that's what I've tried to provide.

PS: Apologies for any errors or typos. It is late. I will correct that stuff as time goes on. If you have any questions feel free to PM me.

Cheers
-Smoky

 

Good write up!

As everyone knows each person has their own method of installing. I personally didn't cut any wires when I installed mine, I just stripped a bit of insulation back, wrapped my wires around the exposed copper, soldered it, and used 3M 33+ electrical tape. Of course if you want to use head shrink this isn't an option. I really like the idea of making the 'y' split, I've never heard of anyone doing that before, and that definately makes for a clean install once completed.

I don't remember if the cig lighter is powered when the key is in the ACC position. If it is, you may run it to some problems with the unit remmebering the correct position of the VDC switch.

The fuse is a great idea, but not totally necesarry. It is ok to rely on OEM fuses for protection, but you can never have too many fuses, especially if they are properly sized.

Again, great write up, when it comes to installing these things there could never be too much information.

Let me know if you need anything else!

 

Thx KP!

I added Y-splits mainly because I never feel good about stripping without cutting. Of course, that may have more to do with the age of my tools and that my wire stripper sometimes has a tough time with it. Stripping in the middle is a big wiring risk for me. (And I never earn as much money as I think I will.... )

I'm gonna add a fuse just cuz of my own paranoia. The cig lighter fuse is 15a I think. And there is a decent length of wire there...enough to spark a fire.

And so far so good with the memory after about 6 or 7 starts. I'll report back if there are any issues.

Thx!
-Smoky