Amp and speaker size.
#1
Amp and speaker size.
Hi again all,
I am looking into the costs of amps etc, and wanted to get an idea of the size I need.
I like the Rockford Fosgate 300X,500X,700X since they take high level inputs directly from the bose, and will also allow 2 of the 4 channels to be bridged to drive a sub. 2 fronts, and a sub - mebbe leave the rears ont he bose or disconnect altogether.
I have a JL10W6 on the way...
My question is, if I like the volume the current system in the car delivers, (240Watt I believe, though how thats spread I dont know) - what size amp should I be looking at?
I like clean, good quality music, but dont need to be heard a block away.
Also, am I sizing speakers so that the RMS wattage on the speaker matches or slightly exceeds the amp per-channel wattage, or am I sizing the peak wattage of the speakers slightly higher than the amp?
I am looking into the costs of amps etc, and wanted to get an idea of the size I need.
I like the Rockford Fosgate 300X,500X,700X since they take high level inputs directly from the bose, and will also allow 2 of the 4 channels to be bridged to drive a sub. 2 fronts, and a sub - mebbe leave the rears ont he bose or disconnect altogether.
I have a JL10W6 on the way...
My question is, if I like the volume the current system in the car delivers, (240Watt I believe, though how thats spread I dont know) - what size amp should I be looking at?
I like clean, good quality music, but dont need to be heard a block away.
Also, am I sizing speakers so that the RMS wattage on the speaker matches or slightly exceeds the amp per-channel wattage, or am I sizing the peak wattage of the speakers slightly higher than the amp?
#2
get something in the neiborhood of 75Wrms for the front channels. That way you can upgrade your stock speakers later. Good speakers (coaxials and components) nowaday require around 50Wrms.
FYI, most speakers blow because of distortion, usually happens when you crank up the volume on cheap amps.
It is not the wattage, it's the ampere.
FYI, most speakers blow because of distortion, usually happens when you crank up the volume on cheap amps.
It is not the wattage, it's the ampere.
#4
Just noticed that they are.
SO essentially, I match speaker RMS with Amp putput per channel - and make sure I match Ohmage.
Sounds like an 4 channel bridgeable supporting 300 watts at 4 Ohms will do the trick...
SO essentially, I match speaker RMS with Amp putput per channel - and make sure I match Ohmage.
Sounds like an 4 channel bridgeable supporting 300 watts at 4 Ohms will do the trick...
#5
Christ, I am long winded
Not all amps are rated in RMS. Check a reputable place like http://www.crutchfield.com for RMS info. You only really need to worry about ohm loads and **** on multiple subwoofer installations. Just about every full range car speaker is rated at 4 ohms.
Since you're using a single JL sub, as long as it's a 4 ohmer you should be good using a bridged Fosgate to power it. My past practices with sub amps has been to get the RMS power of the amp to be about even with the RMS handling of the speaker.
I believe the newer Fosgates are not 2 ohm stable so if the sub is a 2 ohm sub (or dual 4 ohm wired in parallel), you may destroy the amp. Check out http://www.eatel.net/~amptech/elecdisc/spkrmlti.htm for more info on this.
hope this helps =)
Since you're using a single JL sub, as long as it's a 4 ohmer you should be good using a bridged Fosgate to power it. My past practices with sub amps has been to get the RMS power of the amp to be about even with the RMS handling of the speaker.
I believe the newer Fosgates are not 2 ohm stable so if the sub is a 2 ohm sub (or dual 4 ohm wired in parallel), you may destroy the amp. Check out http://www.eatel.net/~amptech/elecdisc/spkrmlti.htm for more info on this.
hope this helps =)
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