If there was a car PC installed back here along with an amp... how could I get cool air from the AC back there??

 

no reason to run an AC duct, just use a 12 volt PC fan to blow into the box from the cabin.....

 

I've got a Bose OEM sub cover on the way... perhaps that will suffice?

 

You should get a software program to monitor your cpu and case temperatures in real time while running an intenstive program such as prime95 to see how hot the temps get. Preferably you can do this while driving the car around on a hot day. This way you will know whether you will need additional cooling.

 

do a push pull type with at least two fans to cycle cold air into the area

b

 

buy a bag of ice cubes and throw it back there every 1-2 weeks

 

get a liquid cooling system for it.

 

liquid nitrogen!!!!

 

A one hundred shot of NOX in there will do you good!

I've got over a thousand watts worth of amplifier wedged into my cubby hole - the Bose speaker cover allows for a bunch of air flow. I also have a very small/quite 12 VDC fan that gently puffs 32 cu.ft. of air across the amplifier each minute.



The fan blows air from the cool end across the botton of one/top of the other amplifer and out the subwoofer grill hole.

 

No, it won't. But if you apoxy a 12vdc PC fan to the back of the panel(pulling air from cabin), it will work. I had an overheating problem in the summer time. Now I don't. It keeps the amps cool enough, even when the windows are rolled down and no A/C on. I'll snap some photot tonight and post tomorrow morning.

 

Excellent setup. Does that rig mount up to the inside of the cubby somehow? I have my amp sitting loose back there.

 

how would i be able to conect two cpu fans and be able to turn them off? I have an xbox360 and it has to stay cool. I have the xbox360 in the cubby with a bose speaker screen to let air in but it needs more air. I dont have it on all the time so i dont need them on all the time either. Where would i connect them for power? thanks

 

Yes

The thread rod allowed me to measure the hole exactly and drop the top amplifier down to clear that gap but also allow me to "expand" the amplifier up a bit to fit afterwards. I found that the amplifiers didn't run that hot so I didn't raise the top amp up after installing it so I cut the front thread rod down a bit for looks.



Note how the straps from the amplifier rack match up with the 10 mm bolt holes in the front that were for the Bose speaker mount and in the back where the second luggage cubby would go. Very sturdy and no rattles even at speeds.

 

You will have to use a Bosch relay. The relay will provide a 12vdc powere supply when you HU's remote amp wire turns the relay on.

 

TheProfessional, I was suppose to post some pics today but I got wrapped up doing something last night. Sorry.

 

DAMN have you weighed that!?? Nice though... What did you use for the brackets???

 

Home construction braces - they use them in huricane/tornado/earthquake areas to add strenght to the nails holding the house together. They were the correct thickness, had plenty of pre-drilled holes and were plenty cheap enough.

The whole thing started out as a template that I was going to replace ... and then quit! I wanted to exchange the wood for about 10 pounds of copper and the house straps for copper strips too.

The subwoofer weighs in at 62 pounds, the amp rack probably about 15-20 lbs., the Fat Mat at about 50 pounds ...