UK cousin needs a little help please! ;-)
Hey all...
Looking into doing an install myself and had a few questions, but first this is what I intend to do:
1, Replace head unit with help from an AI 740 mount kit, either an Alpine, JVC or Panasonic - ideally something that will play DVDs with MP3 files. Colorful display also a bonus!
2, Replace front speakers with my JL XR 650 CSis (already bought). Powered by two channels from 300/4 amp. Dynomat accessible areas of door panel.
Question: What are my tweeter fitting options for these *without* making modifications to panels etc?
Question: Will the main speakers drop in without modification to the panels?
3, Replace Bose sub with JL 10W1v2. This looks to be the ideal one as I'll be powering it by the remaining 2 channels of the 300/4 amp. Shouldn't need to rely too heavilly on the bass from the sub, as main components perform quite well from what I've heard.
Question: I'm not too bothered about getting 100% performance from the sub, so I hope to drop this in without the need for a sealed enclosure. Will this affect the sound a great deal? I'm relying on the main speakers to provide me with 80% of the sound.
4, Find a hidden install point for my 300/4 JL amp. One installer I spoke to said he could mount it on a panel that'll fit in the spare wheel area... I would have thought it wouldn't fit myself....
Question: can you suggest an alternative *hidden* location in the boot?
5, Optional depending on results of the above: Possibly replace rear speakers too with cheaper JL speakers. Power these speakers by the head unit. I've read peoples opinions on rear speakers (i.e. don't bother) but at the same time I don't like a flat soundstage at the front of the cabin, so I'd like to equalise this, even if it is only 10% at the rear...
Question: what size are these for the rears? I assume I should put coaxials in there?
6, Use decent cabling and interconnects!
Question: As I'd like to be able to revert back to the stock Bose system when I sell the car, will I be able to leave the Bose wiring in place and run the new cables alongside (avoinding the need to remove and re-install the Bose wiring)
Overriding issue is that I don't want to modify any original panels/parts and keep the original Bose system intact, so I can reinstall it when it comes to selling the car.
Thanks for any help.
Lee.
Looking into doing an install myself and had a few questions, but first this is what I intend to do:
1, Replace head unit with help from an AI 740 mount kit, either an Alpine, JVC or Panasonic - ideally something that will play DVDs with MP3 files. Colorful display also a bonus!
2, Replace front speakers with my JL XR 650 CSis (already bought). Powered by two channels from 300/4 amp. Dynomat accessible areas of door panel.
Question: What are my tweeter fitting options for these *without* making modifications to panels etc?
Question: Will the main speakers drop in without modification to the panels?
3, Replace Bose sub with JL 10W1v2. This looks to be the ideal one as I'll be powering it by the remaining 2 channels of the 300/4 amp. Shouldn't need to rely too heavilly on the bass from the sub, as main components perform quite well from what I've heard.
Question: I'm not too bothered about getting 100% performance from the sub, so I hope to drop this in without the need for a sealed enclosure. Will this affect the sound a great deal? I'm relying on the main speakers to provide me with 80% of the sound.
4, Find a hidden install point for my 300/4 JL amp. One installer I spoke to said he could mount it on a panel that'll fit in the spare wheel area... I would have thought it wouldn't fit myself....
Question: can you suggest an alternative *hidden* location in the boot?
5, Optional depending on results of the above: Possibly replace rear speakers too with cheaper JL speakers. Power these speakers by the head unit. I've read peoples opinions on rear speakers (i.e. don't bother) but at the same time I don't like a flat soundstage at the front of the cabin, so I'd like to equalise this, even if it is only 10% at the rear...
Question: what size are these for the rears? I assume I should put coaxials in there?
6, Use decent cabling and interconnects!
Question: As I'd like to be able to revert back to the stock Bose system when I sell the car, will I be able to leave the Bose wiring in place and run the new cables alongside (avoinding the need to remove and re-install the Bose wiring)
Overriding issue is that I don't want to modify any original panels/parts and keep the original Bose system intact, so I can reinstall it when it comes to selling the car.
Thanks for any help.
Lee.
Last edited by l33r0y; Mar 16, 2006 at 05:57 AM.
For your sub, yes, the bass would be affected quite a bit if a sub meant to be enclosed isn't installed that way. For that, get a "free air" sub. Those are meant to be used in the manner you are describing.
For the amp, there is no other hidden space in the boot, however, many members here have had success mounting their amps in either the storage compartment behind the passenger, or in the stock sub location. If you choose the latter, go with an amp with a built-in fan and heat sink.
For the front speakers, look at those with shallow mounting depths to avoid clearance issues. There are many, many options out there.
Rears are 6.5".
Also, use the search function on these forums to get more ideas. There is a wealth of information here.
For the amp, there is no other hidden space in the boot, however, many members here have had success mounting their amps in either the storage compartment behind the passenger, or in the stock sub location. If you choose the latter, go with an amp with a built-in fan and heat sink.
For the front speakers, look at those with shallow mounting depths to avoid clearance issues. There are many, many options out there.
Rears are 6.5".
Also, use the search function on these forums to get more ideas. There is a wealth of information here.
Last edited by usmanasif; Mar 16, 2006 at 10:05 AM.
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