What is everyone wiring their detector to?
12-08-2003, 09:39 AM
#21
I don't think so...the spares are just that...spares. There is no power going to them, and they are there for replacement of blown fuses only.
You have a couple options when hard-wiring your V1:
1. Find a 12v line, particularly not anything engine, electrical, or mechanical related. Stick with lighting, or radio, etc. Ground is the chassis of the vehicle so this is easy. I found my 12v line jsut outside of the fuse box in the drivers kickpanel.
2. Use the 12v and ground lines in the rearview mirror.
Either of these will work fine, jsut be sure to use the fused line on the v1 hardwire kit. This will cause hte v1 fuse to blow before the main fuse blows, protecting the v1 and your car. If you do not fuse the V1 12v main line, and something funky happens, the V1 can draw ALOT more current than it was designed to and could fry itself. If it is fused, anything over the fuses current rating will pop the fuse preventing damage to the V1, but most likely will not pop the main fuse at the fusebox, causing issues with your car.
The rule of thumb is always to use a fuse if possible for safety reasons...
If you need help tracking down a wire color or location, PM me, and I will search the factory service manual and give you the details. This install should not be too difficult, but you may need to hunt around a bit to find the right wire if you opt to tap into 12v by the fuse box.
You have a couple options when hard-wiring your V1:
1. Find a 12v line, particularly not anything engine, electrical, or mechanical related. Stick with lighting, or radio, etc. Ground is the chassis of the vehicle so this is easy. I found my 12v line jsut outside of the fuse box in the drivers kickpanel.
2. Use the 12v and ground lines in the rearview mirror.
Either of these will work fine, jsut be sure to use the fused line on the v1 hardwire kit. This will cause hte v1 fuse to blow before the main fuse blows, protecting the v1 and your car. If you do not fuse the V1 12v main line, and something funky happens, the V1 can draw ALOT more current than it was designed to and could fry itself. If it is fused, anything over the fuses current rating will pop the fuse preventing damage to the V1, but most likely will not pop the main fuse at the fusebox, causing issues with your car.
The rule of thumb is always to use a fuse if possible for safety reasons...
If you need help tracking down a wire color or location, PM me, and I will search the factory service manual and give you the details. This install should not be too difficult, but you may need to hunt around a bit to find the right wire if you opt to tap into 12v by the fuse box.
12-08-2003, 11:24 AM
#22
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wow thanks for the reply! I went outside and tried to look at the fuse panel but there is too much snow around and I don't have enough room to open the door all the way. That and the Z is stuck in its spot 
Oh well I guess I gotta wait a little while before I can ask you some more newbie questions 
Oh well I guess I gotta wait a little while before I can ask you some more newbie questions
12-09-2003, 10:35 AM
#23
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A concern that came to mind about sandwiching the wire with the fuse is that if the fuse w/ wire wrap is too thick, the contact in the fuse block could be expanded too large, possibly permanently. If the wire is removed at a later date, the remaining fuse may contact poorly thereafter. Just something to think about as you're doing it. It may be worth trimming a few strands of wire to make it a little thinner yet still thick enough.
08-12-2005, 06:14 PM
#24
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Originally Posted by GaryM05
To get your power cord down to the fusebox, you shouldn't need to remove any part of the dash (or anything else for that matter other than the fusebox door.) If you look under your dash at the top of the driver's side kick panel, there is about a quarter-inch gap between the top of it and the bottom of the panel above it. I just ran the wire in through there and fished it far enough down that I was able to reach in through the fuse box and pull it through.
As for getting the wire to that point, I went a slightly different route down the A-pillar than most people. Once I ran the wire across the headliner, I went down the A-pillar next to the windshield (rather than inside the door molding.) Once I got the wire to the bottom of the windshield underneath the A-pillar molding, I ran it out around the base of the A-pillar and then down the door molding for about 12 inches to bring it to the gap at the top of the kick panel. I hope that makes sense, but let me know if you'd like more detail.
Good luck with your project. It's definitely time well spent.
Gary
As for getting the wire to that point, I went a slightly different route down the A-pillar than most people. Once I ran the wire across the headliner, I went down the A-pillar next to the windshield (rather than inside the door molding.) Once I got the wire to the bottom of the windshield underneath the A-pillar molding, I ran it out around the base of the A-pillar and then down the door molding for about 12 inches to bring it to the gap at the top of the kick panel. I hope that makes sense, but let me know if you'd like more detail.
Good luck with your project. It's definitely time well spent.
Gary
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