Just want to aviod any stupid mistakes. What are most people using for a power source for their radar detectors?

On most cars I've had, I usually hard wire it to the cigarette lighter, but in this case, that may not be best. Are people just going straight to the fuse box?

 

Some radars have a hardwire kit with an inline fuse. Mine didn't so I bought an inline fuse from Radio Shack and hardwired it to the fuse box. I will try to post pics tomorrow.

 

I hard wired mine to the cigarette lighter fuse with no problems.

Fuse #7

 

I hardwired my V-1 to the cig. lighter fuse. No problems whatsoever.

 

Ok, just had a look at this sucker.


You gotta be kidding me.
How the hell did you guys wire it into the fuse block? I can barely "see" in there let alone actually get anything done.

Did you all remove the fuse block from the panel? I can't understand what you actually "wired" into.

 

This should help. PM if you have any more questions...

https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....threadid=19028

 

Wow, that did help.
So, it looks like you basically "sandwiched" the hot wire in the fuse holder with the cigarette lighter fuse?

Sounds like it would work, although not too permanant.
What map fuse did you go with to protect the detector?

 

That's exactly how I did my V-1 as well. Just bared the wire, removed the fuse, wrapped the wire around the fuse plugs, plugged fuse back in. As far as being permanent, I'm not sure what you mean. Mine is in there today just like the day I put it in and I expect it to be there for years to come, or at least until someone takes it out.

 

Guys...

Make sure that you wire your radar detector to the fused end of the fuse. Remember that one end is not fused and the other side of the fuse is protected. Wiring to the wrong end, would be like tying the radar detector directly to the battery post without a fuse. Needless to say, this situation is probably not what you intended. There's an easy way to tell, without the FSM. Pull the fuse, and use a multimeter, or 12v light, and test the 2 fuse terminals with the ignition on. The one that shows 12 volts or lights the test light is NOT the fused end.

I hope this helps, and I wouldn't want you to inadvertantly fry your new speed enhancing mods...

 

I did exactly what Dr Bonz did (thanks again), however my radar did not come with a hardwire kit with inline fuse. I bought one from Radio Shack for under $2. Item #2701238. 5x20mm fuse holder. Here are pics...

 

another

 

to the fuse box

 

to the radar detector

 

on the road (note G35)... have fun and dirve safe!!

 

You have done well, young Jedi...

 

Ok, this sounds pretty simple. One more thing though.


What size fuse are people using to protect the detector?

And how exactly are you running the wires.
For right now I'm going to put the detector under the rear view mirror.

I know i can run the wires along the windsheild until I get down to the dash.
How are people geting the wires past the dash?
Are you playying heart surgeon and tearing things apart? Or is there an easier way?


Thanks, you guys have been a load of help!

 

The best policy here is to follow the typical rule of thumb. All radar detectors come with a fuse installed in the cigarette lighter adapter. The best thing to do is to look at the rating on this fuse, probably 120V/1A (1 AMP). Just unscrew the cigarette adapter, and look at one of the ends, and you will find this rating. Never use a fuse higher than what the manufacturer includes with any product--this is asking for trouble. So, if for example a 1 amp fuse is included with your detector, go to Ratshack, and pick up a 1 amp fuse and fuse holder, and wire that to the fuse panel...that's all !

 

To get your power cord down to the fusebox, you shouldn't need to remove any part of the dash (or anything else for that matter other than the fusebox door.) If you look under your dash at the top of the driver's side kick panel, there is about a quarter-inch gap between the top of it and the bottom of the panel above it. I just ran the wire in through there and fished it far enough down that I was able to reach in through the fuse box and pull it through.

As for getting the wire to that point, I went a slightly different route down the A-pillar than most people. Once I ran the wire across the headliner, I went down the A-pillar next to the windshield (rather than inside the door molding.) Once I got the wire to the bottom of the windshield underneath the A-pillar molding, I ran it out around the base of the A-pillar and then down the door molding for about 12 inches to bring it to the gap at the top of the kick panel. I hope that makes sense, but let me know if you'd like more detail.

Good luck with your project. It's definitely time well spent.

Gary

 

i just wired mine into the power supply for the rear view. was easy....no problems...no extra fuses...just tap into the pos/neg going to your rear view.

 

Can you use the 2 fuses marked spare fuse? Are those active? I guess you just strip the end of the V1 red wire and tie it to one end of the fuse? Sorry newbie to car electricals here