AAAA

I want to run three 10W3v2s or three 10W6s..... first which is better and why??? i still cant figure it out... Another question i have is to run these, ive been suggested these two amps, which is better... Vote above.

KJ-350

the 1st thing you should do is pick your sub, not the amp! there is a huge difference between all of the above items you listed! where as one would be plenty for something, it wont be nearly enough for another, or could be overboard for another! pick the sub and speakers you want 1st, then pick / match amps based on their needs!

AAAA

i agree, but heres my logic, i can use one or the other of the amps...., i want to know the diff (SQ,SPL...) of the subs... W3v2 or W6??? I just wanted to know the quality of each of the amps when compared....

(backwards i know, but....)

KJ-350

Hmmm...maybe this will help then

W3 will require alot less power and give you more options when picking an amp b/c of the number of configurations out their voicecolis.

W6 will need more power, it is going to give tighter faster response, and in a 10 will be able to handle and reproduce low freq more accurate. the W6 is not as forgiving as a W3 will be! you do need the proper power and most of all the proper enclosure! not enough power and the wrong enclosure will give you a very $$$$ shitty sounding system!

both of those amps will be fine for the W3s and not enough for the W6s, esp. 3! which also brings up Ohm load! bridging the PPI is a 4Ohm load, wiring the W6s will be lower and the amp will not take it. 2 W6s yes, 3 no.

so before I go more into it you see how its more important to pick the sub 1st! way to many "what ifs" when there is not a sure pick behind it.

W3s....less power, less $$, more options in VC's, more of a "forgiving" sub on power and space, response will be alittle slower, low drops will not always be as defined, a pretty nice sub compared to alot of the others out there

W6......alittle more $, more power, will play just about any type of music you can give it, faster, tighter, more accurate, a "better all around" speaker.


See what I mean...pick the sub 1st LOL

KJ-350

here are the JL manuals for both subs. do alittle reading / comparing of the specs to get a better idea. sometimes seeing them "on paper" helps alot more...

W3v2's

http://www.jlaudio.com/subwoofers/pdfs/10W3v2_MAN.pdf


W6v2's

http://www.jlaudio.com/subwoofers/pd...12W6v2_MAN.pdf

Gish

I have Zapco reference 200s and love them . Cleanest amp i have ever owned. Absolutely ZERO distortion.

Gish

AAAA

ok ok ok...this helps A LOT. thanks, one thing though, i was looking at the W3v2 vs W6, not W6v2. Does this significantly change your advice.....

let me do some thinking and reading, be back in a lil...

KJ-350

Yah, alot! stick with the new ones! The W6 is/was a great sub but there has been alot of changes to it in the V2! The old W6 has had like a 10yr run and now discontinued! The W6v2 more than holds up to the "state of the art" saying! I've even had a few shops tell me the new W3v2's were meant as the replacement of the old W6's and were just as good if not better. If your seriously thinking about getting the discontinued ones I would pick the W3v2 over them.

I will be running 2 10W6v2's with my PCX-2200. Wiring each sub (4Ohm DVCs ) independently in parallel and each will have its own airspace / enclosure. Wiring the DVCs this way will present a 2ohm load (in stereo) for the amp and will give each sub a very clean and consistent 400w each!!

AAAA

ah ha, thats the info i needed. I like the W6v2s, but i wanted it in a 3 sub setup like someone else had on the forum (STLZ?). But i dont think i can afford it, gotta get some other stuff for the ride , but i do want a pimp system (i like good sound for a variety of music) i just wanted to make sure the W3v2s would bump enough (quality too)... plus PPI vs ZAPCO amp question (leaning strongly towards Zapco...(thanks Gish for the input)
Thanks again KJ

KJ-350

no prob, the W3v2 would be a great pick then! one MAJOR thing to keep in mind with shopping amps now that you've more or less picked your sub. The W3v2 are DVCs! They come in D2, D4, and D6s! Since you want to run three you must keep the following in mind...

3 DVCs wired in series:

D6s = 4 ohm load
D4s = 2.7 ohm load
D2s = 1.3 ohm load

3 DVCs wired in parallel:

D6s = 1 ohm load
D4s = 0.7 ohm load
D2s = 0.3 ohm load


(read this part a few times) your best bet with today's "avg" amps (meaning non-comp amps) would be going them in series. you must keep in mind the end ohm load when picking your amp! if you are going to use a 2 channel amp and bridge it mono the amp is going to cut the ohm load in half and run at what that equals...

i.e.

giving an amp a "4 ohm load" when bridging it mono will actually put the amp into 2ohm mono! a 2 channel amp will cut whatever load its giving in half. so for this example you would need to find a 2 channel amp that is 2ohm stable when bridging it mono!

you other option is to go with a "mono block" amp. these amps only have one channel to start with. since a mono block amp is already "cut in half" per say (bridged to 1 channel) it will play exactly what it is given! it will not cut the ohm load in half! if you give it a 4ohm load that's what it will play at. give it a 2ohm load and that's what it will play etc etc.

so in wrapping it up.....if your going to shop for a 2 channel amp and bridge it, make sure that is stable to HALF of the ohm load you planning giving! if your going with 3 W3v2s subs in D6 VCs your amp must be 2ohm mono stable, D4 VCs the amp must be 1ohm stable, and if you decide to go down to D2 VCs it must be a .5ohm stable amp!!!

Where as shopping for mono block amps you dont have to worry about the "bridging cutting it in half" b/c it will play exactly what ever ohm load you give it!

AAAA

WOW! thats gold! now this whole process makes more sense!
But heres my question. the Zapco amp i was going to run, the AG750, says as its stats....175x2 @ 4ohms, 350x2 @ 2ohms, and ....750x1 @ 4 ohms (oviously 2 ohm stable). So if i wire 3 D6's in a series, (at a 4ohm load), the 750x1@ 4ohms matches. Right?

success is so near.


thanks again for the explanation
A

KJ-350

Well if those are the exact specs of that amp, then no! based on the above the amp is 2 ohm stable but in stereo (both channels being used independently, 350x2).

And if it is only giving you a spec for mono, 750x1 @4ohm, this one would not work for these subs. Remember when you bridge a 2 channel amp the amp will cut whatever load you give in half! So you would be giving it 4, it cuts that in half to 2! And since it doesn't list a number for 2ohm mono (i.e. 750x1 @2ohm) it would not be stable for this load, sorry. Would need to get one that the specifically say "___"x1 @2ohm for it to "properly" work with these subs since they will be giving it 4ohm. Now if you find a mono block amp (1 channel) that says 750x1 @4ohm then that's great b/c they play exactly what you give it!

Here is the bottom line for yah bud

If you use 3...

D6s = 4 ohm load = you need a 2ohm mono stable 2 channel amp -OR- a 4ohm mono block amp

D4s = 2.7 ohm load = you need a 1ohm mono stable 2 channel amp -OR- a 2ohm mono block amp

D2s = 1.3 ohm load = you need a 0.5ohm mono stable 2 channel amp -OR- a 1ohm mono block amp

AAAA

man..what the hell do they say 750x1 @ 4ohms, when its not?? I guess if i cant use it, what can i; any suggestions....

if you got time, check out the Zapco website (products-> referance-> 750) the spec list is why im asking..

KJ-350

well they are correct is saying that, it will give 750x1 @ 4ohm. Now say you had SVC subs, 2 8ohms for example, wire them parallel and that makes them an 8ohm load. An 8ohm load into a bridged 2 channel amp is going to cut the load in half each time every time no matter wha tit is... 8ohm load cut in half = a 4ohm load...the amp when be 750x1 @ 4ohm.

AAAA

ok, well any suggestions on what amp i should use for these subs? ( at least i pick the subs first, lol )

KJ-350

sure, since I just wrapped up picking mine I have like 10001 bookmarks of specs etc. I swear I musted of looked over every quality amp out there 5x over LOL

But first, one key question...how much you budgeting for just this amp? That pretty much narrows it down alot! Let me know how much and I shoot a few off...

AAAA

id say, around (or under!) $600. Around 600 fits the max, but im open to other options. Hope this narrows it down...

KJ-350

You'll have no problem getting a really nice quality amp for that then! Your running 3 and JL lists the "opium" continuous load for each to be as close to or just over 300 each to really make them do what they are meant to! so here are a few to check out, I'm listing them in no certain order...


these are based on you running 3 D6s (4ohms at the wire) and not going to have alot of options b/c of that..

- JL Audio 1000/1, will do approx 330 each

- Zapco Z600C2-SL , will do approx 300 each


these are based on you running 3 D4s (2.7ohms at the wire)...


- Xtant 1001, will do approx 330 each

- PPI PCX-1500 , will do approx 330 each

- PPI CH1800 , will do approx 267 each

- ORION XTRPRO 1000 , will do approx 330 each

- ORION HCCA 250G5 , will do approx 267 each

AAAA

Wow, GREAT! im gonna look through these and post my pick(s).
Online, i use onlinecarstereo.com and woofersetc.com, anything im missing? (site wise?)

KJ-350

Now if you seriously wanted to put a fire under the *** of your subs and still be within the safe zone for them these will have people drooling and talking for days afterwards about your system!! VERY constant, and highly underrated! I love these amps...




Diamond Audio,

- D5 1200.1, you will spank them with 400 each all day and night w/o thinking twice about it! (using 3 D6s IN PARALLEL)

- D7401 , based on its "rating" you'll get 267 per sub but you can easily get 300 all day long! (using 3 D4s)

ORION,

- HCCA 275G4 , again..you will spank them with 400 each all day and night w/o thinking twice about it! (using 3 D6s IN PARALLEL)




These two posts will give you more than enough reading to do! You cant go wrong with any of the above! Have fun with it!