Ok guys i got one for ya. I got the new M10000(1GHz) Mini-itx board in this week so i put it in the Casetronics 2699R case. At home it works Fine(plugged in to a power strip/surg protector) but it will not boot up in the car??!!! so i have been playing with it and i have found that it also will not boot up at my parents house in Plano Tx(plugged straight in to the wall). I have it plugged into a 155w inverter ,in the car, that has powered everything else fine(same case and the me6000)I have also used it with a n ATX 145w ps in the car and it works fine. so im thinking that the 60w dc/dc ps in the case is not strong enough(by 5-10w) but if that is true why does it work at my house? I thing i am going to hard wire it and see what happens. Any Ideas???

 

From all I have read, there are definetly 'issues' with that Casetronics 60w DC-DC power supply, either with any M-series epia board, or with any M-series in conjunction with a 3.5" HD. If you are using a 2.5" HD, then I guess the issue is with the mobo in general.

I think we either need a larger DC power supply (and it seems there might be some choices available soon), or, we are going to have to go with the inverter and a regular ATX AC power supply to the mobo.

 

seems like something wrong with the capacitor. It worked at your house cause you plugged it in a power strip, which has a cap to prevent surge. Didn't work in the car or your parents house cause you did not have that extra cap to regulate the charge. Not sure if the cap is not strong enough or if you had blown it when trying to use it in the car. Check with that first.

 

Without knowing all the details of the power supply used (DC-DC) most problems associate with DC-DC would deal with unwanted "noise". The power coming off the car is not a very clean source of DC power. Just think of the alternator, AC compressor, fuel injectors etc injecting power spikes into car DC power. Yes, there can be noise in household AC current, usually from neon lights or things like frigs, microwave ovens etc.

I like the idea of PC in the Z. I would suggest using a 12 volt battery from UPS as a starter power supply for your PC. Even if the car engine is not running there still may be electrical noise in the DC power so this reason for using a standalone 12 volt battery. You can purchase a battery from Fry's or other sources for under $20 (sealed lead-acid 12 volt).

Once it works with the battery, then connect to car DC source. Insert a fuse between car power source and PC to protect both. If it works with the battery but not connected to car DC source, try moving the connection point electrically closer to the battery....like attaching directly to battery. If this works, then use a large gauge wire to connect PC to car battery, use two wires. Do not "ground" PC to car.

I have had problems using Nissan power source to power simple things like a cell phone. I am use the cell phone using cig. lighter adapter on a Toyota Solora but not on my 350Z or '98 Maxima. Ofcourse the '98 Maxima had a recall because of alternator but not sure why adapter won't work with 350Z.

Good luck.

 

Sounds like the same problem I had with the M9000(933mhz). It's inconsistently boots up...with no discrmination on where you are. I would bet if you take it back to your house and try to boot it up a few times you would get the same problem. It's a problem with lack of power.

The symptoms with mine:
1) Works better with monitor plugged in (monitor vga cable probably supply additional power or its all in my head)
2) Usually boots fine when you just restart the computer from windows.
3) Shut down, unplug, and restart and you have to push the power button 3-5 times to get the thing start (usually).
4) When you get it started it works fine.

I finally gave up and switched out the motherboard. I been using the 2699R with my EPIA 800 with for about a month and a half with no problem. Either the power supply on the 2699R is overrated or the M-series motherboard's power needs are underrated.

 

Just a FYI:

I just went to Sam's, and they had a 400W (800W peak) "modified sine wave" DC/AC convertor for $28.xx. I almost bought one just to have, since they were so cheap, but I'm not quite ready to go yet with this stuff, so I'll wait.

This was also pretty small size wise.

 

abz123:

Are you using an inverter and the AC/DC adaptor that came with your case? If so, how is this working out for you? Have you checked how hot any of these devices are getting? Any heat concerns?

Did you hook up fans on the case? I didn't think the case came with actual fans, but I was just looking at one at Fry's, and it seemed to have the (2) case fans included.

Have you tried just hooking up DC straight to the mobo?

I've received my M9000 mobo, and my DVD drive, but I do not have a power source yet. I was tempted to buy a std ATX at Fry's for $25, but I am really trying not to buy things that I don't think I am going to end up using (counting every penny on this project...lol)

From your experiences, I know that the 60w DC PS that comes with the case isn't going to work with my mobo and all my components, but I am still trying to decide wether to buy the case and an additional 60w DC board and go straight DC, or just go with a 150w ATX power supply and an inverter.

 

The attached link is the idea that is running through my mind. It allows us to have a DC install in the car, but the ability to remove the computer, and easily power it up from AC in the house.

Car Power Diagram

The cost for (2) sets of the Casetronics 60w DC/DC power board with AC/Adaptors is about $130.00. The regulator was thrown in, though I don't know if it exists, if it is needed, and how much it would cost.

This is definetly a more expensivepower option than going with a std say 150W ATX power supply ($30) and an inverter ($30), and I'm really not sure if staying with strictly DC in the car is of any advantage. Something about changing DC to AC to DC in the car just doesn't seem right.

This cost is also getting up near the soon-to-be-released Opus system, which has the additional benefits of some start-up/shut-down circuitry, but, won't allow an easy AC in-house solution for when you want to spend some time tweaking your system outside of the car.

Please share your comments on the attached.

(EDIT)
What I have tried to do is split the 3.5" HD away from the same power source as the mobo, because I am thinking those (2) devices on same power source are maybe what is causing problem. The DC Plugs are where you would split the system to remove from the car. One of the two DVD drives would go with the computer when you remove it. The other drive would (which I am thinking is a drive located in the people compartment of our car) would remain fixed.

 

Yes, 'Powerline' 300 watt inverter $39.99 in Walmart electronics department. I know I'm not going to use the 300 watts but all I had to choose from was a 75 watt and a 300 watt.... I always like to err on the right side. Devices work great. It's been sunny and in the mid 70s here all week (probably 90 in the car after in sits in sun all day) and it runs great. I have the inverter stored in the false storage area in the glove box....I reach in to unplug the unit a few times to bring it in the house and I didn't notice any heat...so I guess that would be a no. The 800 releases virtually no heat. The 9000 was a little warmer, but not to the point to be concern.

Yes...my case came with two 2" fans and I am running them both....Very quiet. Probably don't need them right now...but this summer when the car is 110 degrees it might be a good idea.

DC power <= No. The inverter worked fine and It never crossed my mine to try it.

 

The power supply might be a nice group buy (if someone is interested)....I remember somewhere where they were selling them in bulk for like $19 or $29 depending on quantity. If you guys are going to wire it directly you could get the wires and power splitters seperately for a lot cheaper.

The bulk buys were posted at one time...I think you have to contact them now for prices.

I believe it was one for $49....

http://www.mini-box.com/PW-60.htm

 

I like the Idea of using Two DC power supplies. I don't know where you came up with that price ($130), but I think I could do it for around $60 by just splitting the +/- wires that run from the case to the current power supply with another power supply and turn my power into a 120w(60w for the motherboard, usb and 60 for the hd and DVD-Rom). Or I might even combined the two in to one(120w) just by running them parallel.

abz123:
I have not had the power issue at my house even when not hook up to a VGA monitor, but just testing on a TV. I have turned it on many times manually and it boots up every time just fine. I need to try it some where else(not plugged in to the surge protector) But even if I get it working with my 150w inverter, I think I will still have problems when its hard wired with my shutdown controller.

 

The $130 price was an approx for (2) of the DC boards each with AC Adaptors. The AC adaptors are only good for 55w I think, so you would possibly need two of them to power the complete computer from AC power.

I'd hate to organize a group buy for something that I am not sure is going to work, but if others are interested, let me know, and I will contact the manufacturer.

 

If you guys want to talk about a group buy lets get the one from opus. 150 watts and it has a trigger for around $190. I talked to the manufacturer he says he is coming out with a cheaper version also. something like a 100 watt. http://www.opussolutions.com/

 

Here are the prices for a group buy on the Opus 150w ATX PS


SFX-12-15 DC-DC power supply is specifically designed to withstand
automotive environment. It is ruggedly built, wide operating temperature and
input voltage, over 90 % efficiency, ignition input for shutdown control,
delayed shut down timer up to one hour and many more features.
It is not just an another PC power supply, it is a smart supply.
It is also capable of driving an Intel P4 Mother board system.

SFX DC-DC Power supply price

Product Part # 1+ 10+
SFX-12-15 US$190 US$181

The Power supply is available without case and fan. The prices are
US$180 @ 1+ and US$170 @10+ respectively.

Shipping charge for a single unit is $9.00 within continental US by UPS
ground.

 

Not a really big savings, is it? Isn't it a bit strange the power supplies end up costing more than the chips and processors, combined?

 

I was thinking the same thing on the savings. Well I can actually justify why this PS is so expensive. It is a specialty piece there is not another one like it. This actually satisfys a need for the in car pc. The other ones just supply power. this one will shut it down and start it up on command! kinda neat if you ask me. I will be getting one. Just have to get the $500 or so together to buy all the components.

 

I understand it is specialized. I just think that they are also making a big mark up on them. The components aren't that rare, from what I've seen. The controller is the only specialized part, and I'd bet those are off the shelf units programmed for this functionality.

I guess I could see the $100-$125 range. Above that, it makes me think pretty hard.

Prices will drop as this becomes a bit more common, I assume.

 

The shutdown features seem to be about a $35 item.

See this

I have been spending alot of time at www.mp3car.com, reading through their power supply threads. Lots of info there...just haven't soaked it all in yet to be able to make a decision.

 

http://home.attbi.com/~zootjeff/

this looks bad *** too!! only $149

 

Ok need some help. I just got one of the casetronic cases with the dc to dc power supply and am having issues with it powering the pc. I did not want to use an inverter so I went to Radio Shack and got a regulated cig plug, it allows you to set the volts it puts out. So I spliced the wires from the cig lighter to the cord from the casetronic case hooked it all up and it did not work 100%.

It seemed not to power the pc unless I started the car, and when it did poer the pc it rebooted before windows XP could fully load.

I am thinking since I am using the Xenarc touchscreen which is plugged into the seral port that this could be causing the power issues.

I do have another 60Watt dc to dc power supply coming next week. I hop to use this to power the HDD and DVD drive to lighting the load on the power supply in the case.

Here is a list of what is connected to the cas power supply.

CPU fan on the Via 800MHZ board.
Case fans.
2.5 inch 30 gig HDD
slim laptop dvd drive.
This might be the issue( Serial cable pluged into the Xenarc 7 inch touchscreen vga monitor)