Scafremon

I know this topic has been brought up in various car pc threads, but I thought it might be good to have a thread dedicated just to this part of the system.

Maybe those that have already decided on how they will power their PC can explain what they are using, and reasoning.

I know that using an inverter is an inexpensive way to go, but aside from cost savings, I rather not invert the DC from the car battery, to AC, and then back to DC. Since we have a DC source, why not just stay with it. A voltage regulator has been mentioned to keep the input source consistent. Are the fluctuations in the voltage source from the battery and/or alternator enough to warrant this device?


What about this thingy?

I believe this is what ships with a Casetronics case for a mini-itx motherboard. I think it just takes a 12v DC source, and splits it up into the various voltages the computer needs. Wouldn't using this keep things simple?

As for powering up/shutting down, I'm going to have a EE friend look at the schematics, and see if there aren't existing relays/contacts that can be utilized. For instance, if you shut down your engine with your headlights on, some circuit closes to initiate a 'beep' warning. Your lights still have power, but a signal initiates the beep. A similiar circuit could possibly send a singal to the motherboard to initiate hibernate mode.

There is also the power to the windows, that allows you to operate the windows for a brief time after shutting down engine.

Scafremon

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Jspec350z

iTrader: (3)

65 watt is like the bare minimum!! I would say at least 100 watt and 150 is probally better!! If you look at my other post under Power supplys there is a few. The best one is the one that has a trigger like an amplifier. The 150 watt power supply with trigger for around $200
also here is some more links!!

Power Supply:
http://www.dc2dc.com/
http://arisecomputer.com/ps/ps2series.asp

and for more links please see:
https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....threadid=21875

ares

iTrader: (2)

I am doing the inverter method, I want to have a PC with a bit more umph, and I also need a way to power the screen. so a 300watt power supply is what Im using, along with a 300watt inverter.

sounds like a lot, but all fo this is at max capacity, which your rarely use in a computer... Im also underclocking my chip to save on power and heat. but even so, itll be underclocked to 1ghz and I can crank it back up to 1.63 in the winter if I choose.

also I am using quite a few fans, including a whopper of a CPU fan, I realize the temps that this will be used at, and am taking precautions to properly cool it. Im a bit concerned about the lack of cooling in the via systems, saves on power, and probably would be no problem for the system running in a 70degree house, but 120degree cars in a small area...

Scafremon

Via users can always add a fan, if needed. Those using the Casetronics case will have (2) fans included. I will probably install my via in the sub void, and replace the blank cover with a ventilated cover. While temperatures do rise inside the car, chances are that if it is 120 degrees inside, not only will I not be sitting in there, but the computer will not be running.

alphared

Yeah, i'm using something similar to that power supply. But mines is like 55W.

I'm running a via800, so more than enough. I've tested it with 2.5hdd, dvd and 2 webcams. Have no problem running it. Plus its like super small. I have no need for a Super PC system in my car. With high end graphic cards and stuff, is not worth it for a 7" screen, just to play dvds. Thats for playing 3d games and stuff.

Using a higher voltage powersupply would drain your battery alot. If you have a stereo system setup (with high Amps) your battery would just die, and your pc will reboot often due to that lack of power when you crank the car or pump your stereo.

See the problem with most of these pwr supply is that it requires 12V input (constant) and the car battery varies, from about 12V to 14V. So a voltage regulator is require to insure that nothing gets fried. Currently there are no 12V voltage regular that i've found commerically, so I've got all the parts to build my own.

Scafremon

Since our car is already filled with processors and solid-state devices , I would think that either a +2v increase isn't that big a deal for similiar components, or, we should be able to find devices that accomplish the regulation that is needed. But, if we can also make them

Scafremon

I just ordered my Epia M9000. I admit I was a bit reluctant to go with the M9000 instead of the 800, since abz123 had power supply issues with this motherboard. But I have confidence that an adequate power supply can be found. I really hope so, because I plan on trying to use a 3.5" HD for starters, since I have one already.

Could we use (2) of those DC cards I have shown above, and separate some components between them? Can you have a HD for example IDE connected to a motherboard, while receiving it's power source from somewhere else? Seems to be doable, as long as there is an easy way to shutdown the components on a power source different from the one the motherboard receives power from. But I could be way off base here.

zaway

I have an idea I wanted to pass by you guys. I'm setting up my car PC and my stereo system at the same time so I will have an AMP, and a sub with a new head unit along with the PC. What I was thinking of doing is having a power distribution block. So the battery will feed a capacitor which in turn feeds the distribution block. From the block I will send it to the AMP and the PC. What do you think? will this work? I was thinking that the capacitor will act as a battery for a few seconds once the car is turned off so the PC can shut down cleanly.

what you think.

zaway

ares

iTrader: (2)

some computer guy told me that a UPS could power a computer and even act as a power supply, and he also said it could take in DC current and output enough to support a full blown computer of 300+ watts...

Im a bit skeptical and have not found such a thing, his reasoning was that the power did need to be conditioned, and the UPS goes AC-DC-AC inside of itself then back to DC in the power supply, so in effect youd input DC, itd condition it to whatever you needed, then output it again straight into your MOBO, HD, and monitor.

he also said a 3.5" HD was not meant to take any G forces, while a laptop was meant to take as much as 10. basicly saying a regular drive will not suffice... but if you use a laptop drive be sure to get the adaptor that it should require...

Scafremon

Yep, I imagine he is correct, and that I will end up using a laptop drive, especially if my suspension design doesn't pan out.

ares

iTrader: (2)

are you using my suspension design with the springs on top and bottom?

if so, yeah... I like to think it will, and if I had one sitting around, its obvioulsy benificial to try it.

but im changine my order, cause Im buying it either way, so its not saving me money.

as for the power supply, breaking news on that front.

as some may know, a UPS take in AC current and charges a DC battery... then converts the battery BACK to AC current and in the process cleans it up.

what I am going to do is purchase an old UPS whos battery has bit the dust. then open it up, and tap into it, basicly use the CAR battery where the UPS battery WAS. you guys following that? so I take DC in, and put AC out and in the process clarify the signal. and a broken UPS is pretty cheap...

ares

iTrader: (2)

interesting news for those not aware, laptop drives typicly take a different connector than a 3.5" drive, you can convert it with an adaptor, but if you dont want to do that and save some cash, newegg.com has a fujitsu 40gig 4200RPM drive that runs on a ata100 interface, which should hook up fine to your nonlaptop harddrive.

just a heads up. it is actually 1$ cheaper than the IBM 40gig drive they have that uses the other connector.

MannishBoy

iTrader: (1)

If I remember correctly, the VIA chips only use like 12W of power, vs 70+ for the high speed Intel or AMD processors.

Hence, no major need for a fan with the VIA. Think of it this way, the VIA chip uses about as much as one of those small, screw in flourescenct light bulbs, vs a medium sized incandescent. You can easily touch the flourescent, but will burn yourself on the incandescent.

If I go that route, however, I'll probably use a small fan just for safety.

You can actually run a relatively high speed AMD/Intel processor on lower than 300W. For instance, the Shuttle small systems use 150 to 200w. See this Nforce 2 unit. No, you can't use 5 HDs and 2 optical drives, but a basic system doesn't need 300+W. It is nice, but not required.

ares

iTrader: (2)

Im using an Nforce motherboard, should save on power, but if I ever feel crazy... the pretty 8xAGP slot is still there waiting.

so Im wondering, regaurdless how much wattage your using, heat your producing, all the fans in the world are still confining your heat to the glove box... is anyone putting fans in other places? somehow circulating our out of the glove box? maybe some in the door itself? or the carpeting below it...

MannishBoy

iTrader: (1)

I'm going to try to find a mini-ITX case that will work beneth the passenger seats. There are some out there that might work. If not, I may build one with a mini-ITX board, if I ever get around to working on this project.

I'm letting you guys be guinnea pigs for a month or so until I get my system plans decided.

ares

iTrader: (2)

I saw a pc once, bout same as what Im planning, but he fit it into a cube, bout 11x11x11, in a custom case you can make things fit in odd spaces. you dont always need a rectangle block of space.

MannishBoy

iTrader: (1)

Did you see my Shuttle link? Pre-fabbed cubes.

There are some mini-ITX cases that won't take full height PCI cards that I'm pretty sure will fit. I'd like to find one that WILL take the full size cards, though. I think the low profile cases will be about 4" high. Then they are about 15-16" x 12-13".

If not, I may fab one myself. Shouldn't be that hard. Those cases are bigger than I'll need anyway, since the case won't include a floppy, optical drive, or big power supply.

The advantages to under the seat are that it is easy to get to, and that it is in an environment closer to what the parts are designed for temperature wise, since I'm going to be sitting there It is cooled and heated.

Of course, if I go with a powerful chip like AMD or Intel, I get an additional seat heater over there

Scafremon

question for those that have bought the Casetronics 2699R case for the mini-itx:

Does the pic below represent everything that you received, in addition to the actual case?

abz123

I bought my case and motherboard at the same time...so they put it together for me.

Not sure if this is part of the case or not (but usually it is when you buy a case seperately)...

Few things I've noticed not in the picture other than the case:
1) cable to power the board on and off (along with buttons).
2) cable to reset button (along with buttons).
3) USB cable (front connection)
4) sound/mic/audio input cable (front connection)
5) firewire cable (front connection)
6) screws and spacers
7) other cables like for HD indicator.
8) Two 2" case fans.
9) Front panel plate.

Funny how they list the 2699R as having a 60 Watt power supply now. I was one of the first to get one and I remeber it being adverstise as 55 watts. Did they actually switch out the P.S. or are they playing around with numbers? At least a lot of the sites (like Idot) are finally acknowledging that there is a power shortage problem with the M series.