after market head unit/sub problems
10-06-2006, 12:47 PM
#1
after market head unit/sub problems
OK well here's the thing. I'm doing my install in stages as my budget allows. My first purchase was an aftermarket JVC single din. This unit replaced the Bose. Everything sounded great... even the Bose 10 inch had more base. Next came a zencloser single 10" box with a JL W7. I hooked up an old Phoenix gold 600rms amp and this is when i started having issues. If i have my gain turned all the way down the radio plays with out any problem as loud as i can stand it. As soon as i turn up the gain however on the amp only the W7 hits and all the other speakers cut out.
another former member had an issue like this with his system, his discription is almost exactly like mine.
The only problem is this guy is no longer on the boards...
another former member had an issue like this with his system, his discription is almost exactly like mine.
Originally Posted by Jason
Starting a couple of days ago, my front Diamond Audio S600 speakers that are running though a JL 300/2 amp started cutting out periodically.
It first, I thought the amp might be overheating, but it actually seems like an electrical problem. Here are the symptoms:
1. Every few moments, the speakers will cut out for a couple of seconds.
2. The louder the volume, the more often they cut out (at 20, they cut out about once every 30 seconds).
3. If the engine is turned off, once the speakers cut out they will NOT come back on.
4. The LED on the JL amp stays on, the amp always has power.
5. There is no sign of strain on the electrical system (no dim lights, no drop on the voltmeter)
So it would appear that the amp isn't able to draw enough current, so it cuts off the sound, but why would it do this? Is the battery in the Z not up to task? If so, had anybody else noticed this?
I am going to talk to the shop about this tomorrow.
It first, I thought the amp might be overheating, but it actually seems like an electrical problem. Here are the symptoms:
1. Every few moments, the speakers will cut out for a couple of seconds.
2. The louder the volume, the more often they cut out (at 20, they cut out about once every 30 seconds).
3. If the engine is turned off, once the speakers cut out they will NOT come back on.
4. The LED on the JL amp stays on, the amp always has power.
5. There is no sign of strain on the electrical system (no dim lights, no drop on the voltmeter)
So it would appear that the amp isn't able to draw enough current, so it cuts off the sound, but why would it do this? Is the battery in the Z not up to task? If so, had anybody else noticed this?
I am going to talk to the shop about this tomorrow.
Last edited by BE350Z; 10-11-2006 at 11:49 AM.
10-11-2006, 11:54 AM
#3
Originally Posted by james840a
How is the head unit connected to the amp?
This has me stumped.
10-11-2006, 01:03 PM
#4
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Ok, next question. Do you have a dedicated power run from your battery to the sub amp? and if so what size is it?
Next question, from the head unit, you have it connected to the existing harness for the front/rear speakers? if so do you have the bose amp power wire connected to the head unit? The stock Oem Bose system has two amps, one for the 10"sub and one for the 4 speakers. Tring to get more info
Next question, from the head unit, you have it connected to the existing harness for the front/rear speakers? if so do you have the bose amp power wire connected to the head unit? The stock Oem Bose system has two amps, one for the 10"sub and one for the 4 speakers. Tring to get more info
10-11-2006, 02:39 PM
#5
I ran a 4 gauge from the battery and a 4 gauge ground connected to the passenger seat mount that bolts to the frame. My auxiliary power is ran from the radio feed. Ive even tried just bridging the auxiliary to the main positive and i still have the problem.
From the head unit its connected via the RCA's for signal only. I get a signal no problem. Even when the other factory speakers cut out im still getting a signal to the amp and thus to the sub. No matter how loud i turn it up the sub plays just fine. However, the louder i turn up the volume the more the factory speakers cut out on me.
From the head unit its connected via the RCA's for signal only. I get a signal no problem. Even when the other factory speakers cut out im still getting a signal to the amp and thus to the sub. No matter how loud i turn it up the sub plays just fine. However, the louder i turn up the volume the more the factory speakers cut out on me.
10-11-2006, 06:26 PM
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OK, sounds like your power is leads are good. And from what i read, the front/rear speaker wires from your new head unit are connected to the harness were the old head unit was plugged into. And you have bose system, the amp in your new head unit might be overloading the oem bose amp. I attached a quick diagram of the factory system.
https://my350z.com/forum/attachment....0&d=1160592781
You may want to try by-passing the bose amp that the speaker are connected at in the trunk.
https://my350z.com/forum/attachment....0&d=1160592781
You may want to try by-passing the bose amp that the speaker are connected at in the trunk.
10-11-2006, 06:45 PM
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You have:
a JVC headunit
10w7 sub powered by a phoenix gold 600w rms amp
Factory speakers running off the power of the headunit right? And this was a Bose system so there are still Bose amplifiers in the system between your JVC headunit and the stock speakers? correct me if I'm inaccurate with these details please. Also give us the exact model number of that Phoenix gold amp, that will help
+1 You can also try disconnecting all the speakers from the headunit and running a temporary direct wire from the headunit to one of your speakers if it still cuts out after you have bypassed the factory wiring you probably have a blown factory speaker
a JVC headunit
10w7 sub powered by a phoenix gold 600w rms amp
Factory speakers running off the power of the headunit right? And this was a Bose system so there are still Bose amplifiers in the system between your JVC headunit and the stock speakers? correct me if I'm inaccurate with these details please. Also give us the exact model number of that Phoenix gold amp, that will help
Originally Posted by james840a
You may want to try by-passing the bose amp that the speaker are connected at in the trunk.
Last edited by Ichigo; 10-11-2006 at 06:59 PM.
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10-12-2006, 07:18 AM
#8
Originally Posted by james840a
OK, sounds like your power is leads are good. And from what i read, the front/rear speaker wires from your new head unit are connected to the harness were the old head unit was plugged into. And you have bose system, the amp in your new head unit might be overloading the oem bose amp. I attached a quick diagram of the factory system.
https://my350z.com/forum/attachment....0&d=1160592781
You may want to try by-passing the bose amp that the speaker are connected at in the trunk.
https://my350z.com/forum/attachment....0&d=1160592781
You may want to try by-passing the bose amp that the speaker are connected at in the trunk.
Ichigo the amp is an older phoenix gold titanium 600.2 found here http://www.phoenixgold.com/2004/titaniumamps.html . I ran my head unit with out this amp/sub for about 6 months. This only started last weekend when i added the amp set up. The thing is i also ran this amp/sub combo in my jeep for about 2 years with no problems at all. I'm almost certain now that its caused by the little Bose amps... If it was the head unit that was cutting out i wouldn't still get the signal to the amp and sub i don't think. I'll try bypassing the factory amps on saturday and see if that clears it up.
Thanks for all your help guys!
10-14-2006, 10:14 AM
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I know if the speakers are too close together, since they have different ranges of frequencies, occasionally they will cancel each other out. This is the same problem I had in my yukon pushing 2 10" and 1 15" the 15 cancelled the 10's
10-16-2006, 06:46 AM
#11
Well due to the all weekend rain event i wasn't able to tear into the car 
I did take out the Bose 10 and its amp but that didnt help. I think i'm going to just go ahead and replace all the components and run new wire. It seems like the best bet. Thanks again for all your help and input guys!
I did take out the Bose 10 and its amp but that didnt help. I think i'm going to just go ahead and replace all the components and run new wire. It seems like the best bet. Thanks again for all your help and input guys!
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