Sounds like the cap...try taking it out and see what happens.

 

will do, and thanks for the tip on the relay, i'ma check that out.

 

replace your capaciter with a battery in the trunk
inexpensive go optima
money not an issue go stinger
install a a stinger isolater relay under hood
it has 2 connectiions that go right between your power wire (hopefully your at least using a 4 guage power wire)
the other 2 connections are a ground off the relay , and a trigger power 12 volt source



with car not running
this will allow your stereo to run off the battery in the trunk and when that battery is drained it shuts system down so the power is not drawn from front battery under hood and car can always start


with car running both batteries will charge at same time


cap is your problem IMO , might be defective


a stinger battery from being used lets say at 14 volts till your relay shuts it down , now start car and the stinger will reach back to 14 volts in about 3 minutes


remember the alt will charge the battery with least resistance 1st


good luck



here is a photo of 2 trunk stinger battery set ups

and the under hood relay, with 150 amp circuit breaker by stinger

 

350zspl, thanks alot for the info...i will also take that into consideration. where can I purchase a relay from? and how much do they cost?

 

we sell them at our shop

retail about $50

if your handy you can intsall yourself

see photo it just splits between power wire , then run a 16" 14 guage ground off one end , and 12 volt off the other end

simple but effective


i got an extra one about 3 months old $25 shipped , it is the one in the sample photo i added to this post out of my 96 impala

if you want a new one go new , if you want a used one let me know


we sell caps at the store too , i am not saying caps are bad


but dollar for dollar battery is better

 

to found out if it is the cap, take it out of the loop and connect the power. then run it for couple days. If you continue to have the same proplem then it is not your cap, if the proplem goes away then it is your cap. With those size amp you have listed, you really dont need a cap. Caps are used to store power, so when the amp has a sharp note(bass) to hit, that the amp has the power right then to draw from, instead of drawing it from the long distance from the battery. If you find that it is the cap, then you can do the simple relay setup that 350zspl posted and that should fix your proplem of power drain when your car is setting.

For me, im pushing 1.3kilowatt of power with a 1.5cap w/built in relay, on oem battery and havent had a proplem, plus i drive it everyday too.

Hope you get it fixed

 

you in ft lauderdale

in live in delray beach

i work at a stereo shop on Saturdays by Hardrock Casino in Davie

come to my shop

i will diagnose what is your issue

and best route to fix

Saturdays 10 am to 6 pm

954-581-8189

Travis

350zspl

 

were have you been going to give your audio business to ,that got you in this situation ?????

 

I just installed this one 12VDC/30A SPST Automotive Relay from RadioShack for controlling the turn on/off of a amp cooling fan. $6.49 + personal labor.

 

Topgear, that relay wont work on the main power line. You need a higher amp relay like 350zspl has, youd fry that 30amp relay in a heart beat in line with your amps and battery.

But they do work for what you got going for the fans and light amprage devices.

 

350spl sorry for the delay, but i'm am really really REALLY happy to find out you're local. I have been going from audio shop to audio shop looking for someone I can trust. Sound Advice did my amp/speaker/subwoofer install and 595 auto accessories diagnosed my problem (it turned out to be the cap, no surprise)....they charged me 89 bucks for something I told them to check out, I guess I live and I learn. So I'm going to pick up the car tomorrow with the lack of a cap. I really like the cap I had because it was "showy" and it went with the color of my car. So I will definitely be at your shop to get my relay installed, what's the name of your shop? I stay in Plantation so you're not far from me at all.

 

here is a pic of my trunk....



that's the capacitor that stopped working. it had a LED display which cut out on me after the first 2 weeks of use. However, I think I'm going to get another, but this time, I'll make sure to keep the receipt...lol.

 

Nice trunk! I've never seen that cap before. Who makes that??

 

well, i picked up the car yesterday and it was the cap. It's parked in my garage since yesterday (without the battery charger attached), i won't drive it until tuesday or wed. just to make sure everything is working. 350zspl, i'll be seeing you this week...

 

i been to five 9 five for an spl show ,i know them


Precission Performance is were i work on Sat

1 block south of Griffin on 441 west side

i work there Saturday's 10 am to 6 pm
954-581-8189
Travis is my name

i work another job mon thru fri in Boca
call me here so i can schedule your appointment for any Sat when i am there
800-777-8665 ext 2242
mon thru fri 8 am to 5 pm

call me and we can get you some hearing loss in no time

 

clean set-up

 

Thanks a lot, now I just have to get it to work....lol. I'm getting custom kicks built currently, but that's a new topic....haha.

 

Well I installed a new Stinger capacitor and guess what, its doing the same thing...so I disconnected it. Now there is NO possible way that this capacitor is broken too....could it possibly be something that is not connected right? The capacitor should not be killing my battery like this....obviously.

 

Capacitors DO draw some bit of energy,, not enough to do what is hapening to you though. I would remove ONE component at a time from your system till you find the part that is drawing the juice.

 

it is definitely the cap....the first time the battery was dying we disconnected each component of the system to see, and it came down to be the cap. i didn't have a cap for a period of about 2 months, with no problem. i put a brand new cap back on and now my battery is dying on me again...