Constant Battery Draw....HELP!!!!
03-05-2007, 10:36 AM
#41
03-05-2007, 04:46 PM
#42
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well this is my second battery and the cap is killing this one. i haven't had any issues since i disconnected my cap though. i guess i'll just eliminate it from my setup...
03-05-2007, 04:56 PM
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I have the same amps and the DDX7017 and the stock battery holds up fine.
Since you changed the cap and have the same problem, I would guess that it might have to do with the way the cap is wired up maybe?
Since you changed the cap and have the same problem, I would guess that it might have to do with the way the cap is wired up maybe?
03-09-2007, 12:08 AM
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plugging and unplugging stuff to find what's going on is fine, but what you really need to do is measure the current draw to determine exactly what is the problem. Do you have access to a clamp meter or multimeter? Your easiest way to check is with a clamp meter, simply put the current loop around the battery wire and you'll get the current draw, unfortunately these not very accurate at low draws which is what you'd expect wit the car off. For the most accurate reading use a multimeter and put it inline between the battery and main terminal for the car. Becareful that you only do this while the car is NOT RUNNING and DON"T START your car. A typical meter will only handle 10A, so you'll pop the fuse if you do. With the car off and nothing on, you should only get a very small current draw of around 40ma. If you have anything close to 1A or more, then that is a problem and you are killing your battery. By doing this test you can isolate the problem and findout exactly what is drawing power when your car is off. It's the only real way to quickly find out what's going on.
03-09-2007, 06:39 AM
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Originally Posted by azula
well this is my second battery and the cap is killing this one. i haven't had any issues since i disconnected my cap though. i guess i'll just eliminate it from my setup...
But if you have issues, just install a secondary battery between your amps and primary battery, and start the check process again. If symptoms still persist and the voltage remains low..... it is hi-output alternator time.
As far as batteries go.... DON"T ever buy a Stinger battery! It is just over way priced! It is nothing but a HAWKER Odyssey battery that Stinger buys from Hawker and then they re-labeled it to say Stinger. Just like SEARS buys Whirlpool washing machines and puts their KENMORE label on it. You can get the Hawker battery at 1/2 it's price of the Stinger AND IT'S THE SAME BATTERY!!
I recommend either the Odyssey of Kinetik's Batteries for Deep Cycle and longevity........no others come close and I've used them all in my audio quests over the last 20 years!
Hope this helps!
Last edited by Z1truth; 03-09-2007 at 07:35 AM.
03-09-2007, 06:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Z1truth
Eliminating the cap all together is a good move, they are marginal help at best! Drive your car at night with lights on ,air, and whatever other accessories you can turn on. Drive it for 1/2 hour to an hour then when you get home check the charge on your battey to see if it is still approx. 12.7volts. If you had no light dimming of you headlights and or performance issues on your accessories and you still have the 12.7 volt charge on your battery , you are good with just 1 battery and no cap.
But if you have issues, just install a secondary battery between your amps and primary battery, and start the check process again. If systoms still persist and the voltage remains low..... it is hi-output alternator time.
As far as batteries go.... DON"T ever buy a Stinger battery! It is just over way priced! It is nothing but a HAWKER Odyssey battery that Stinger buys from Hawker and then they re-labeled it to say Stinger. Just like SEARS buys Whirlpool washing machines and puts their KENMORE label on it. You can get the Hawker battery at 1/2 it's price!
I recommend either the Odyssey of Kinetik's Batteries for Deep Cycle and longevity........no others come close and I've used them all in my audio quests over the last 20 years!
Hope this helps!
But if you have issues, just install a secondary battery between your amps and primary battery, and start the check process again. If systoms still persist and the voltage remains low..... it is hi-output alternator time.
As far as batteries go.... DON"T ever buy a Stinger battery! It is just over way priced! It is nothing but a HAWKER Odyssey battery that Stinger buys from Hawker and then they re-labeled it to say Stinger. Just like SEARS buys Whirlpool washing machines and puts their KENMORE label on it. You can get the Hawker battery at 1/2 it's price!
I recommend either the Odyssey of Kinetik's Batteries for Deep Cycle and longevity........no others come close and I've used them all in my audio quests over the last 20 years!
Hope this helps!
thanks man, well yea...i disconnected the cap again and i'm not having any problems....i really don't need the cap at all, its just an aesthetic
. it gives me show points basically. i might take it back to the shop so they can run over it. i don't know what else to do, thanks for the input guys.
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