Amp:
Kicker ZX700.5
-RMS 70 watts x 4 chan. + 210 watts x 1 chan. @ 4 ohms (or RMS 85 x 4 watts x 4 chan. + 420 watts x 1 chan. at 2 ohms)


The system it'll be driving:
Headunit:
Kenwood DDX6019

F/R speakers:
-Front: Polk/MOMO MMC6500 - 10-125 watts RMS, peak: 250 watts
-Rear: Polk/MOMO MMC650 - 10-80 watts RMS, peak: 160 watts

Sub choices:
-Sub: JL 10w1v2 - continuous power handling 150 watts RMS, peak: 400 W
single voice coil, 4 ohm (wired normally to the amp at 4 ohm load. Amp outputs 210 watts at 4 ohms to the sub)

OR

-Sub: JL 10w3v2 - Continuous power andling 300 watts, peak 600 w
dual voice coil, 4 ohm (wired as shown below to run the amp at 2 ohm load. Amp outputs 420 watts at 2 ohms to the sub)


OR

-Same JL 10w3v2 as above, but the 2 ohm version wired as shown below to run the amp at 4 ohms/210 watts.


Overall system goal:
Something that sounds a fair bt more decent than stock and actually has some bass; nothing extreme, just a fair mid-level system with good sound for what I listen to at moderate volume levels.


Ok, now the questions:
1. which sub should I go with? I listen to rock and like tight, accurate bass with decent thump when called for. I don't really pound out my music for the whole nieghborhood to hear, either. I won't be setting the sub to max. I already have a new JL 10w1v2; if that'll be fine for what I want, just let me know. I don't neccessarily have to have bigger or better just for the sake of having it; like I said, I likely won't push the system to it's max. To switch, I'd have to re-sell that sub and pick up the other one, but I can do that if it'll truly be the better all-around system.

2. If the 10w3v2, which of the two configurations above?

3. If running the mono amp at 2 ohms for the dual voice coil sub, are there any problems with the F&R amps running at 4 ohms concurrently? (I really know nothing about how amps work and ohms in this respect).

4. My headunit has a full-featured crossover and a sub pre-out. Should I use it and set the amp to pass-through or shut it off and send only the F & R signals via their pre-outs to the amp and use the amp's crossovers?

5. For the F&R speakers (each speaker has it's own external passive crossover), should I run each amp output right into a single input on the crossover and run the mids/tweeters at 4 ohms or wire it up like the dual voice coil amp diagram above and run them at 2 ohms/higher power? The crossovers can be set either way, to be single or bi-wired.



I've had alot of questions lately here regarding this sound system I'll be putting together, as performance and easthetics are more my forte, and you guys have been a great help. I'd appreciate whatever you can do for me regarding these questions, then I should be pretty much set to get it all in and sounding great!

 

Anyone?

I've pretty much decided to stick with the 10w1v2 I already have for now, so questions 1-3 aren't pressing, but would still be good to know for the future.

Ignore question 5; I think I'll keep it simple.

I WOULD really like an answer to question 4, though.

 

so your HU's cross over's only work if you use your speaker level out?

Do your speakers have cross over units with them?

-Peter

 

No, the head unit has pre-outs for all channels including sub and has a fully featured crossover/sub settings built in. I'm just asking if I should use the headunit's crossover to separate what goes to the sub or should I shut it off and use the amp's crossover?

As far as the F/R components, they have external passive crossovers to separate the mid-bass from the tweeter frequencies; that's not an issue.