I got a Alpine CDA-9857, Kicker 350/4 amp and Infinity Perfect Component speakers.
what kind of wires did you guys use?

should I just install the speakers without changing out the wires?

Does changing the wires effect alot?

how long should I get??

Thanks

Andrew

 

-you'll need RCA's from your HU to your amp
-some speaker wire from your amp to either your speakers or back to the area where your HU is to be spliced into your OE wiring harness.

I went from the amp to rear speakers with new wiring (the rear speakers are very easy to route wiring to once all of the interior peices are off)

I went from the amp to the OE wiring harness for the front speakers...I started to take apart portions of the doors to run the wiring through it, but saw how much work was involved and decided that it wasn't worth it to me.

*there's a how-to section that shows how to run new wiring to the front speakers...so some ppl think it's worth it. In my mind, it'd probably make a difference, but for the power level that I'm running and my un-experienced ears, I wouldn't hear that difference.

-Peter

 

use at least 4 guage stinger power wire from your battery to your amp
if amp does not accept 4 guage use 8 guage stinger instead
power wire use clear jacket

use 12 foot or 14 foot stinger RCA cables from HU to amp

1 set per amp

use 16 guage remote or trigger wire from head unit to amp tape with rca's and run together

ground amp 18"s inches or less with 4 guage wire if amp does not accept use 8 guage use either black or grey jacket


speaker wire 16 guage stinger should work fine


that should be it

power wire
ground wire
trigger or remote wire
RCA
speaker wire


good to go

 

also run rca & trigger wire down one side of car

power wire down the other

use a fuse between battery and power wire in the first 12" off the positive terminal


length of all should be on the long side you can always trim down , worse to add when short



rca 12' or 14'

power from battery start with 20'

speaker wire start with 17'


trigger wire same as rca 12' to 14' \


get about 6 foot of ground

 

Thanks for the input

 

my pleasure

always try to DIY

if it does not work out you can always pay someone to do it

 

It depends where you mount your amps. I mounted my amplifiers under my seats and my RCA cables were only 3 or 4 feet long. If you mount your amps on in the cubby, you would probably only need around 6 feet or so. and your ground cable should only be about 18" long.

 

i stated in the first response that the ground from amp should be 18" or less


i mean get 6Ft of ground as an amount to buy as a DIY project , because when you go to a stereo store to purchase try to buy 18" they like to sell at least 5 ft

and you should also run another ground from your under the hood battery negative terminal about 10" to body of car grounding at the battery up front does alot believe me


if he incoporates another amp he will need another 18"

if he incorporates a 2nd trunk battery he will need to ground that to

buy 6 ft

 

and about the rca

i do not know how big his amps are and if they will fit under the seat

but buying going with longer rca he leaves his options open to moving a smaller amp mounted under seat to a larger amp relocating to trunk and not have to buy new rca's or pull head unit again


do skimp on wiring install enough to keep your options open


my pet peeve when i install is i hate to move a piece of equipment and need to re run wire because i measured to the exact inch on the intial install


IMO

 

Thanks for the input guys

 

I'm thinking of this kit:
PowerAcoustik KIT-4G Amplifier Wiring Kit

4 ga. / 20 Ft. Clear Red Power Cable
4 ga. / 3 Ft. Clear Black Ground Cable
12 ga. / 33 Ft. Clear Speaker Cable
17 Ft. Blue Turn On Cable
17 Ft. Shielded Clear Blue RCA Cable
AGU Fuse Holder With 60A AGU Fuse
Complete Accessories
Double Clamp Blister Packaging

is it good enough? or should I go to store and buy everything separately?
I'm willing to goto store if buying everything separately is better

 

whats the price for this kit

 

That'll work, but you will need another set of RCA's for channels 3/4.

 

And just a side note to something stated above......

I agree that it is good practice to run power and signal down opposite sides of the car, but I would run the remote turn on wire along with the power wire, and NOT taped to the RCA's. The turn on wire is only a trigger, but it is still electric current. You want to avoid any chance of noise entering the rca's. A little precaution during istall will save aggrevation later.

 

in theory your right

i go with experience over theory

i have been doing it this way since 1986

though you can of course do it with the power wire

i mainly use 0 guage power wire , and 18 guage trigger wire


i find it easier to make the 18 guage with the rca

because it is difficult enough to run 0 guage power with out making it any thicker


but either way is good


never had engine noise yet my way

peace

 

http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/produ...s.asp?cat_id=5


read all this before you buy that bargain kit


and this is the good one here

http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/produ...n_US&p_status=

 

Brand: Stinger
Condition: New
Gauge: 8 Ga
Multi Amp Kit: No
Power Wire: 20 Ft. 8 Ga Blue
Speaker Wire: 30 Ft. 14 Ga Blue
Ground Wire: 3 Ft. 8 Ga Clear
Remote Turn On Wire: 17 Ft. 18 Ga Blue
Fuse Holder: Maxi
Fuse Included: Maxi 60 Amp
Terminals and Hardware Included: Yes
Wire Ties: 10 / 6 inch
RCA Interconnects: 17 Ft. Hyper 2 Channel
Includes Splice Connector: No

Stingers SWKH8RS gives you everything you need to hook your Amplifier up even RCAs! Not only does this kit give you everything you need to hook up your amp its all Stinger which means your getting the best kits on the market!
Product Code: SWKH8RS
what about this one? it is around 60$

 

all that for $20 stay away from it



IMO

not saying you gotta get the RF kit

but please upgrade from all that for $20

go with either

a lightning audio kit
a rockford fosgate kit
a stinger kit

 

oh.. thanks.. of course.. We get what we paid for... yeah..
true!!