Problem with Fahrenheit screen after install...
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Problem with Fahrenheit screen after install...
So i installed my display in the nav pocket using the radio as the ground and the light green wire for 12v. I also have the fm modulator and dvd player connected to that as well. My problem lies with the screen, everything works and sounds great however the display seems to have flickering horizontal lines and im not sure why. I was told this might be because of a power issue, if so how can i fix this. What other wire should i use for 12v to hook up the display or the dvd. Thanks!
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I also just installed my screen and everything is great - check your power/ground connections, as well as your RCA connections...it's a tight fit when putting everything back in, maybe a wire is loose.
*did you test the screen before putting it in?
-peter
*did you test the screen before putting it in?
-peter
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yeah everything worked fine...is there a better power source to use? Also from what i read the light green wire was the wire to use. I thought the red wire was an audio wire...
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yea mine still did the same thing. i hooked it up at work to a converter and it worked perfect. then when i hooked it up in my car it kept twitching. did you get it to work?
Originally Posted by drewb612
im going to try switching it over to the red wire, it worked fine before when i had just the screen hooked up and i was testing it out
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Originally Posted by seekndestroy19
yea mine still did the same thing. i hooked it up at work to a converter and it worked perfect. then when i hooked it up in my car it kept twitching. did you get it to work?
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still cant get it to work perfectly...when the car is off, it works fine and doesnt flicker on the green wire, when the car is on, it flickers when connected to the green wire.
I tried the other day to use the red wire and it was even worse. The HU would sound screwed up and when i turned the volume above 20, it would cut the sound out and power to the screen....basically the red wire did NOT work. Not really sure what to do at this point, might take it to a local shop at some point
I tried the other day to use the red wire and it was even worse. The HU would sound screwed up and when i turned the volume above 20, it would cut the sound out and power to the screen....basically the red wire did NOT work. Not really sure what to do at this point, might take it to a local shop at some point
#17
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^^ Jeepers... ...three months later and it still isn't working? You certainly have a great deal of patience and tolerance. We need to get this working.
First thing to do (before making the installation effort) is checking the device on the workbench using a 12v converter. Check everything (all functions). If it checks out here, you know you have a device in good working order that is ready for installation.
Next you use diagnostic instruments to test your power connections (physical wires you are connecting to the device) and grounds. Using this approach gives you the information you need for a successful installation.
Some other points to consider:
1) Do not connect the Farenheit's power lead to the yellow wire. The yellow wire is always hot (and does not run through the car's ignition lead). The Fareheit always draws power (it sleeps just like a laptop computer) waiting for a "wake-up" call from its remote control. If you connect the Farenheit to the yellow wire, and your car sits idle for awhile, the LCD will drain the battery (and it happens in three or four days). You must connect the Farenheit to a power lead coming from an ignition wire (usually a red wire).
2) Don't ground the Farenheit to the radio chassis. Instead, find a reliable and independent ground point, and connect the Farenheit's ground there. The same goes for any aftermarket devices you have onboard. Make sure these devices have independent grounds that do not affect the Farenheit's ground.
I've "been there," and know how frustrating this is. I hope you can solve this.
--Spike
First thing to do (before making the installation effort) is checking the device on the workbench using a 12v converter. Check everything (all functions). If it checks out here, you know you have a device in good working order that is ready for installation.
Next you use diagnostic instruments to test your power connections (physical wires you are connecting to the device) and grounds. Using this approach gives you the information you need for a successful installation.
Some other points to consider:
1) Do not connect the Farenheit's power lead to the yellow wire. The yellow wire is always hot (and does not run through the car's ignition lead). The Fareheit always draws power (it sleeps just like a laptop computer) waiting for a "wake-up" call from its remote control. If you connect the Farenheit to the yellow wire, and your car sits idle for awhile, the LCD will drain the battery (and it happens in three or four days). You must connect the Farenheit to a power lead coming from an ignition wire (usually a red wire).
2) Don't ground the Farenheit to the radio chassis. Instead, find a reliable and independent ground point, and connect the Farenheit's ground there. The same goes for any aftermarket devices you have onboard. Make sure these devices have independent grounds that do not affect the Farenheit's ground.
I've "been there," and know how frustrating this is. I hope you can solve this.
--Spike
Last edited by Spike100; 04-23-2007 at 08:40 PM.
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Originally Posted by Spike100
^^ Jeepers... ...three months later and it still isn't working? You certainly have a great deal of patience and tolerance. We need to get this working.
First thing to do (before making the installation effort) is checking the device on the workbench using a 12v converter. Check everything (all functions). If it checks out here, you know you have a device in good working order that is ready for installation.
Next you use diagnostic instruments to test your power connections (physical wires you are connecting to the device) and grounds. Using this approach gives you the information you need for a successful installation.
Some other points to consider:
1) Do not connect the Farenheit's power lead to the yellow wire. The yellow wire is always hot (and does not run through the car's ignition lead). The Fareheit always draws power (it sleeps just like a laptop computer) waiting for a "wake-up" call from its remote control. If you connect the Farenheit to the yellow wire, and your car sits idle for awhile, the LCD will drain the battery (and it happens in three or four days). You must connect the Farenheit to a power lead coming from an ignition wire (usually a red wire).
2) Don't ground the Farenheit to the radio chassis. Instead, find a reliable and independent ground point, and connect the Farenheit's ground there. The same goes for any aftermarket devices you have onboard. Make sure these devices have independent grounds that do not affect the Farenheit's ground.
I've "been there," and know how frustrating this is. I hope you can solve this.
--Spike
First thing to do (before making the installation effort) is checking the device on the workbench using a 12v converter. Check everything (all functions). If it checks out here, you know you have a device in good working order that is ready for installation.
Next you use diagnostic instruments to test your power connections (physical wires you are connecting to the device) and grounds. Using this approach gives you the information you need for a successful installation.
Some other points to consider:
1) Do not connect the Farenheit's power lead to the yellow wire. The yellow wire is always hot (and does not run through the car's ignition lead). The Fareheit always draws power (it sleeps just like a laptop computer) waiting for a "wake-up" call from its remote control. If you connect the Farenheit to the yellow wire, and your car sits idle for awhile, the LCD will drain the battery (and it happens in three or four days). You must connect the Farenheit to a power lead coming from an ignition wire (usually a red wire).
2) Don't ground the Farenheit to the radio chassis. Instead, find a reliable and independent ground point, and connect the Farenheit's ground there. The same goes for any aftermarket devices you have onboard. Make sure these devices have independent grounds that do not affect the Farenheit's ground.
I've "been there," and know how frustrating this is. I hope you can solve this.
--Spike
I had originally installed it to the yellow wire and it killed my battery a few times...lol fixed that
Anyways when the motor isnt running the screen operates perfectly and does not flicker at all. It is only when the motor is on that the screen flickers. Is there any ground/12v that is not located anywhere near the radio that I can use? Im sick of tearing apart this area and there seems to just be too much interference. Thanks!
#19
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^^ I wish I could provide better help (but, at this point I am only offering guesses). I am sure you are sick and tired of pulling that center console. The only other simple cause I can think of is the FM modulator (which could be causing noise on your system). Your Farneheit uses an IR controller, but the screen is sensitive to RF devices.
I'm assuming you have already tried this, but just in case... What happens when you disconnect the FM modulator?
After three months of frustration, I think it's time to take the "patient" to a Professional Installer. A PI will fix this quickly.
--Spike
I'm assuming you have already tried this, but just in case... What happens when you disconnect the FM modulator?
After three months of frustration, I think it's time to take the "patient" to a Professional Installer. A PI will fix this quickly.
--Spike
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