Running speaker wire to the doors
03-05-2009, 08:42 AM
#81
Maybe I'm wrong here (correct me if I am) but there is another option (I plan to use it if I can).
The boot that connects to the door is much larger than it needs to be and can be cut slightly, wire run through, boot resealed. There is a small black rubber plug just behind (towards the rear of the car) and below the molex connector on the chassis side. If you pop that out and run the wire through there, use silicone to seal both openings you have created/left, and zip tied the wire neatly behind the factory loom, what would be the problem. Clean, almost no-one would notice it, no new holes (that will be visible to anyone at least) and MUCH easier.
The boot that connects to the door is much larger than it needs to be and can be cut slightly, wire run through, boot resealed. There is a small black rubber plug just behind (towards the rear of the car) and below the molex connector on the chassis side. If you pop that out and run the wire through there, use silicone to seal both openings you have created/left, and zip tied the wire neatly behind the factory loom, what would be the problem. Clean, almost no-one would notice it, no new holes (that will be visible to anyone at least) and MUCH easier.
Put some silicon sealant and I will add black tubbing for a cleaner install.
Not that I couldn't do the molex, but it just seemed a little too time consuming to hide one speaker wire. Doubt I'm going to get docked points at a car show anytime soon.
03-05-2009, 01:24 PM
#82
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That's what I did...
Put some silicon sealant and I will add black tubbing for a cleaner install.
Not that I couldn't do the molex, but it just seemed a little too time consuming to hide one speaker wire. Doubt I'm going to get docked points at a car show anytime soon.
Put some silicon sealant and I will add black tubbing for a cleaner install.
Not that I couldn't do the molex, but it just seemed a little too time consuming to hide one speaker wire. Doubt I'm going to get docked points at a car show anytime soon.
I just don't think its worth going through the molex if you don't have to. It would look better, but I definitely don't want to deal with the headaches of getting them reconnected (I have large hands).
03-05-2009, 02:32 PM
#83
Yeah, I feel you on that.
The only thing for the driver's side is:
It's kind of tricky to get the speaker wire through that hole (with the rubber plug.) from the inside. The hole leads you to a metal compartment between the fender and kickpanel.
You could get creative with a coat hanger. I just pulled one of the clips from the kick panel plastic off and went straight through the hole where the kickpanel is suppose to be connected. The trick is to use a flashlight or desk light to see where the holes are so you can pass the speaker wire through.
The passenger side was cake.
03-05-2009, 03:36 PM
#84
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Yeah, I feel you on that.
The only thing for the driver's side is:
It's kind of tricky to get the speaker wire through that hole (with the rubber plug.) from the inside. The hole leads you to a metal compartment between the fender and kickpanel.
You could get creative with a coat hanger. I just pulled one of the clips from the kick panel plastic off and went straight through the hole where the kickpanel is suppose to be connected. The trick is to use a flashlight or desk light to see where the holes are so you can pass the speaker wire through.
The passenger side was cake.
The only thing for the driver's side is:
It's kind of tricky to get the speaker wire through that hole (with the rubber plug.) from the inside. The hole leads you to a metal compartment between the fender and kickpanel.
You could get creative with a coat hanger. I just pulled one of the clips from the kick panel plastic off and went straight through the hole where the kickpanel is suppose to be connected. The trick is to use a flashlight or desk light to see where the holes are so you can pass the speaker wire through.
The passenger side was cake.
That said, thanks for the tip
03-05-2009, 06:31 PM
#85
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Just get kicks from Bing and you will be just as happy as I and other people on these forums are that bought kicks from him 
You won't have door rattles.. you don't have to deal with Molex and once you decide to sell your car... you take your kicks out, swap the OEM cd player with your after market and boom.. car is back to stock again
You won't have door rattles.. you don't have to deal with Molex and once you decide to sell your car... you take your kicks out, swap the OEM cd player with your after market and boom.. car is back to stock again
03-05-2009, 07:17 PM
#86
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Just get kicks from Bing and you will be just as happy as I and other people on these forums are that bought kicks from him
You won't have door rattles.. you don't have to deal with Molex and once you decide to sell your car... you take your kicks out, swap the OEM cd player with your after market and boom.. car is back to stock again
You won't have door rattles.. you don't have to deal with Molex and once you decide to sell your car... you take your kicks out, swap the OEM cd player with your after market and boom.. car is back to stock again
03-06-2009, 05:16 AM
#88
This has got to be the worst running wires I've done. At first I used 2 12gauge wires, it was way too tough to get the molex back on. I down graded to 14-16gauge wire that made it fit better. Not only that now I notice my hatch button outside where the license plates lights are do not work no more (anybody know anything about it?) and it seems that my power mirror button whenever I use will blow a fuse 
. Not too terrible but definitely something I'll have to fix someday..
All in all..its definitely not worth it to me. I should of just wired it off the factory wires.
. Not too terrible but definitely something I'll have to fix someday..All in all..its definitely not worth it to me. I should of just wired it off the factory wires.
03-06-2009, 06:44 PM
#89
i ran my wires a few months ago.
IT WAS A PAIN IN THE A$$.. took forever, was very hard, i was ready to kill someone. drilled through the harness and ran the wires. Everything works fine after. i had no problems. All options work like the did before.
here is a pic, i ran the blur wire through.
IT WAS A PAIN IN THE A$$.. took forever, was very hard, i was ready to kill someone. drilled through the harness and ran the wires. Everything works fine after. i had no problems. All options work like the did before.
here is a pic, i ran the blur wire through.
03-06-2009, 07:26 PM
#90
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After what I accomplished today on my friends car this should be cake (non audio related....involving lots of meth equipment).
Last edited by Peak350; 03-06-2009 at 08:36 PM.
05-22-2009, 06:36 PM
#92
I just did this. It wasn't THAT bad, if you go into it knowing it's not gonig to be a quick task. my door panels have been off for 3 days now, and my head unit doesn't get here untill tomorrow, so I wasn't in any rush. I'd say it took an hour for the first door, and 30 minutes for the second door (disassemble, drill, feed, reassemble).
So far, the locks and window works (my drivers side is already out...). I'll test the mirrors tomorrow once I complete the install, and the passenger window once I replace the motor.
When you drill, makes sure you leave enough slack in the INSIDE connector for the wire to feed easily. For mine, I made the door-side connector hole just big enough for the cable, so there's enough friction to stop the feed if you don't pull the wire straight through. This let me use the speaker wire to help align the connectors when reassembling, and the larger hole on the inside allowed the speaker wire to slip through without getting in the way of pins.
I used 2 16GA wire
So far, the locks and window works (my drivers side is already out...). I'll test the mirrors tomorrow once I complete the install, and the passenger window once I replace the motor.
When you drill, makes sure you leave enough slack in the INSIDE connector for the wire to feed easily. For mine, I made the door-side connector hole just big enough for the cable, so there's enough friction to stop the feed if you don't pull the wire straight through. This let me use the speaker wire to help align the connectors when reassembling, and the larger hole on the inside allowed the speaker wire to slip through without getting in the way of pins.
I used 2 16GA wire
05-23-2009, 07:51 AM
#97
i cut the speaker wire and pulled it out of the harness.. i figured it was cheaper to reconnect the wire than to have to buy a new BCM .. so i reconnected the harness with no wire in it.. and everything started working again.. prior my drivers window, mirrors and trunk wouldn't work
05-25-2009, 09:53 PM
#99
i cut the speaker wire and pulled it out of the harness.. i figured it was cheaper to reconnect the wire than to have to buy a new BCM .. so i reconnected the harness with no wire in it.. and everything started working again.. prior my drivers window, mirrors and trunk wouldn't work
