FYI, I got the new window motor in and everything appears to be working correctly. My check engine light is on, but I think it might be because I forgot to reconnect my pod gauges before I cruised around testing out the new system :-/

 

going to be trying this mod soon i will take my time all day if i have to just so i dont screw anything up wish me luck this sounds like a nightmare and should def have a proceed at your own risk warning i will update with pics and any tips if there are anyto make this install easier

 

Anybody besides Peak350 and 35oZephyR tried this yet? I am doing my own install soonish and would love more info and pictures on this process. If I can avoid drilling the molex or door and have it be easier/quicker I'm all for avoiding the risk to the vehicle. I don't care about pretty or neat. I care about quick, simple and no risk to the vehicle.

Would love to get some pics showing exactly where the wire is coming out of the vehicle (chassis side) and at exactly where you were able to get it into the boot without damaging anything. Was anybody able to maybe use a wire loom or equivalent to hide the bare wire and still have the door close properly?

Thanks for your time.

 

*ORIGINAL POST*
So I looked inside my door and did not see a little rubber plug towards the rear and BELOW the molex but I did see one towards the rear and slightly ABOVE the molex (circled in red in the picture). Is this the mysterious hole?
*/END ORIGINAL POST*

NOPE! and the old photo has been removed.

Finally found it. It's so close to the rubber boot that it blended in, I had to move the boot to actually see it as they were touching. Even then the viewing angle on it is so extreme it's still very hard to see. It actually has a little rubber nub (ie. nipple) in the middle of the plug.

Are we positive it has no purpose (other than plugging a hole ) and can be removed safely and drilled through?

I have moved the boot to the side and taken a photo for all those curious to see. The correct plug is denoted by a blue circle.

However I would still love to see pics from those who have gone this route. One of the wire out from that plug and another of the empty boot section you ran it into the door through. Pretty please!

 

sorry for reviving old thread...but same topic...once the speaker wire has been routed through the molex plugs and into the door...are you guys cutting a slit in the grommet in the door and fishing the wire through and then to your crossover OR are you guys just drilling a hole in the speaker spacers and fishing the wire through the speaker spacers and then to your crossover...thanks....

 

https://my350z.com/forum/audio-build...ing-wires.html

MORE DETAILED WITH PICS

 

I would not even mess with the Molex plug . Took me 5 minutes to drill a 1/2" hole (from inside the car)about 3-4" under the Molex plug . Put a plastic snap in Grommet on both sides of the new hole . I than ran the speaker wires in through the factory rubber grommet in the door(right below factory wires). There is plenty of room . I then used black split loom tubing to cover the wires . Total time was 10 minutes per side .

 

got pics?

 

Absolutly , even put black silicone around each of the split loom tubing (inside and out) to keep any water from seeping in .

 

The following is my views and honest opinions on the matter. If you don't like it, ignore it.


As an auto tech. I would advise against drilling/melting/cutting the factory wiring connector pass-through. It may work, you might have done it without problems, etc.... but I can promise you, if you take crap like that into a dealer with complaints for whatever reason, not only will the tech laugh his *** off , but they will/should charge the crap out of you for bastardizing your harnesses.

This is a FAR better option.

http://www.keepitcleanwiring.com/cat...-Loom--(1-Pair)

 

this sounds like a sales pitch, i did mine 5 years ago and never had any issues.

 

If I took my car in for service and my auto technician charged me for something they don't like about my car (which is not breaking something I asked them to fix), I would take my car to someone who's able to focus on problems and provide real solutions. It's not like auto techs are known for taking the best care of cars.

Despite the intimidation of doing it in the first place, I've had no problems with mine.

please ignore if you don't like this opinion.

 

Perhaps I should clarify...

If you brought your Z into a dealership, with complaints of window/mirrors/speakers/bcm related issues and the tech came across a hacked up and or melted mess of a harness. The advised repair would be to replace the harness and connectors, and wire it more professionally.

Maybe I'm just a little burnt on the subject as I normally end up doing complete rewire jobs when customers bring in their hacked up crap.

 

Ha! Wish I woulda seen this about two weeks ago. I did a half-*** job and have the wires running through the door jamb. I'll be re-doing them now.

 

Nebrios

You bring a good option, and a good point. I've been considering putting in new door harnesses, and finding a new way to run speaker wires. I'm just curious what gauge wire can fit in your example. It's simple and clean.

However not all dealerships are the same.

 

Bump for this, anyone installed these looms? Have tips? How'd you do it?

I read this whole thread, extremely nervous about messing with that molex connector, I was ok until I read about people destroying their door electronics due to bent pins...I do not have a warm fuzzy about doing this portion of the install. I mean, I only need to run 2 wires into here as I am installing the tweets in the A-Pillar I think. Of course...I need to put the crossover somewhere. Did anyone install the crossover somewhere other than the door in this situation? I was thinking under the main console thing in the center? Or will that be a huge hassle running wires around too.

http://www.amazon.com/AutoLoc-DLOOMB...3654475&sr=8-1

 

just did both doors. i dont understand why people have a problem with this. TAKE YOUR TIME and everything will work out. dont force anything. when trying to reconnect your molex plugs make sure that the grey lever is all the way down in the locked position, when reconnecting the other sides molex unlocks the grey lever and allows you to push them together. push grey lever up and thats it. made a HUGE improvement in sound over the factory wires. i used a coat-hangar to snake the wires through the rubber tube. spray some silicone spray in the rubber tube to let the wires slide through. a tiny spray reduces friction almost completely. keep your crossovers velcro'd to the door. if you put it close to your amps you will havto run 3 sets of wires.

 

Definitely be careful when doing this. You do not want to mess it up. Dealer price is $500 to replace this thing. $60 for the part and about $440 for labor. At least that is what I've heard.

 

if you cant drill 2 holes and run some wire, than you probably shouldnt try to do any work on your car.

 

mods should just delete 90% of this thread. unplugging the molex is a pin in the ***, plugging it in is a pain in the ***, all with a very high price if you bend a pin by accident.

drilling a hole is 100x safer