How to mold the Nazar pods to the door....

Hard?


nahhh...it was fairly easy...it just takes time....my advice to you is follow a procedure, because you can easily mess up. I'm covering mine in black suede... I'm not sure if you want to paint that much of your door...is VERY VERY hard to maintain a surface like that that's always touched....I recommend that you cover it with quality upholstery material....here is what I did:

1.) First secure the door pods to the doors...three screws and nuts on each door. (the reason for doing this first is because you do not want the pod in the wrong position when you disassemble the door).

2.) Once the pod is secure in it's permanent place....remove it.

3.) Disassemble the door by taking off the window controller, and the leather arm rest part.

4.) Continue to disassemble the door by removing the screws on the back of the door...I believe there are 2 or three screws.

5.) You will notice that the door is still attached after removing the screws. There are little plastic fasteners that have to be either drilled through or grinded through with a dremmel. I used one of those dremmel stone grinders, and it melted the plastic right off and left a clean, perfectly round hole.

6.) Remove A/c Vent as well as the door handle. Also remove the window molding at the top of the door. There are tabs that need to be bent upwards to remove this piece.

7.) Once the door is completely disassembled, it's time to remove the skin. Handle the door with the face down. you will notice that on the back of the door there are tabs from the upholstery...it's easiest to start ripping the skin off from any one of the many tabs on the back...show no mercy...just rip the skin off.

8.) Underneath you will notice a very thin layer of foam...LEAVE THIS ON. Once all the door skin is off, it's now time to fasten the pods to the door once again. Once it is fastened, and in the position you want it to be in...Grab the glue gun or epoxy if you want, but a glue gun is easier and less messy.

9.)This step is not necessary, but does help (see pics 1 and 2)

It might be hard to understand, but you will be sealing the INNER part of the pod to the door. Make sure the pod is secured with the nuts and bolts provided, and glue around the INSIDE of the pod that's touching the door. It’s very important that you do not get any glue on the outside of the door surface...this is to seal the pod to the door on the inside.

10.) Once that step is done it’s now time to begin preparing to fiberglass. Cut 4 or 6 thin strips of fiberglass. Basically the strips need to be able to cover the outer part of the pod where the pod meets the door. This is how the pod and the door will finally become one.

11.) So once the resin is mixed, (one door at a time) place one strip along the edge where the pod meets the door. Do this all the way around the pod. I recommend 4 strips of fiberglass per door…two strips on the outer edge of the pod, and two strips on the opposite side shown in picture number five. Make sure there are no air bubbles along the seam where the door meets the pod… let this dry for a while.

12.) Once dry, use 60 or 80 grit sandpaper and get that fiberglass as smooth as possible without going through it. This is to prepare for the Bondo body filler that you will be using to fill any holes or smooth out any rough areas.

13.) Now that the sanding is done for now (dust everything off really good), go ahead and mix the bondo. Spread it evenly, and pay special attention to where the seams are. You also may want to carry the bondo out to the middle of the door (fan it out) so that there is no seam (picture 3) Even if it looks rough at first once all is done it will come out smooth. Once the bondo is spread…let it dry for a while, before you start sanding. Once dry, sand it until it’s smooth using 60 grit at first to cut all the rough stuff off, and gradually going to 100 grit then to 150. Once you finished sanding, you might need to repeat the entire bondo process again to get the missed areas. You might find however, that you don’t have to do the entire door, but rather just spots that you’ve missed. Whatever the case, do this until everything is smooth like in picture number 4.

14.) Once this is complete, you want to make sure the door will align properly so attach the bottom plastic piece of the door (picture 6) and see if the holes line up ok. If not, then look at where the plastic piece is touching the pod, because you might have too much bondo if fiberglass in that area, and will probably need to be grinded or dremmeled out.

15.) Once everything fits…you are basically done either get the door covered, or prep it for paint. Enjoy the sound and look once it’s complete. 

 

Picture 1 came out messed up, but if you click on it it's ok......good LUCK

 

nice work of course, but i think its not as easy as just following hte procedure

i am sure you agree working with fiberglass/bondo is more of art form, specifically tehcniques in laying it smooth, and sanding it, amkes all the difference in outcome

but awesome work...though with your skills, i am surprised you didnt just mold the door itself, wtihout using the pod first

 

why thank you...believe it or not...that was only my second time using fiberglass and bondo...but i read alot of online books ...lol...now i know alot about this stuff....i'll learn more i'm sure...

and yes...it is an art form...

 

+1

I had the same thought this morning

 

Now the only question is how do you plan to cover the entire panel? The nissan has a weird grain so I am courious if you plan to use vinyl or carpet.

 

Grain?....don't understand...I took the door skin off and all that was left was a thin layer of foam. I applied Camie 301 or 311 to the foam, and attach the vinyl that I’m using. the vinyl that I’m using is not the cheap glossy type...it's very dull looking and soft...very very nice...I’ll take pics when I finish it...there are so many curves on the door that I have to actually stitch some parts where is curves a lot.

 

i think what he means is that if you look at the plastic panel of the door, its got like grits in the plastic...there for hard to match

but sine you pealed it all off? it doenst matter anymore right?

 

Depends on who you ask. I like my pattern to match through out the car.

 

yeah it doesn't matter anymore...that thing is in the garbage....and that patteren is nowhere else in my car...the center console is painted ultrametalic charcoal, and the rest of the interior is black suede.

Well it will be black suede one i'm done...lol

 

cant wait to see the finished result, i gotta say, for a second project, its looking awesome, my second fiberglass project i practiced by fiberglass a duplicate of a glass bowl lol and it came out crappy...lol

 

lol....well I have a problem...I'm one of those people who has to have everything perfect (I can't remember the medical term), but when it comes to my car I must keep going until the outcome is exactly what I want....no matter how long it takes.

 

i don't know the medical term "obsessive compulsive disorder" I think it is...and yeah, I'm pretty **** about my car too. The damn dealership is annoyed with me cuz I keep pointing out little stupid stuff that I want them to deal with. But they take to long and never get it right, so I'm starting on the list of stuff to do to mine.

 

oh, and this will definitely look way better than just bolting on pods.

 

the final product is going to look sweeet

 

I'd like to see upclose pics of the vinyl you're using. I was trying to find that same skin thats on there now but no luck at all.

 

I will show pics of the final product....and yes it looks very very good when molded on....