QdotJ

iTrader: (13)

Hi everyone

After swapping out my stock 17" rims with 18" I no longer have a need for the 17" donut-spare.

Would it be possible to take a small sealed sub box for a 10" sub and lay it snug in between the metal closest to the forward of the car and that metal bolt that holds the spare? (will post a photo as soon as I get home from the office)

I'm just looking for a simple and effective solution for smooth clean bass, nothing boomy.

I also considered a set of 6.5" subs to go in the rear speaker area, but I've heard that they just sound like someone "farting" in your ear. (not speaking from experience)

I would grab a zenclosures box, but I don't want to sacrifice used space for unused space.

Last resort; sub in stock location stuffed with poly-fill or pillows - heard it works for the tight sound that I'm trying to go for.

Any suggestions? Thanks to everyone for their constructive input.

Paul350Z

iTrader: (1)

Someone lied to you.

Tight bass and free air don't belong in the same sentence together. Tight bass is controlled bass is a sealed box with the proper interior cabinet volume for the subwoofer. Each woofer is designed with a set of manufacturer's parameters called Thiel-Small which dictate a certain size box for a certain sound. Mismatch the two and you'll not be as happy with the sound as you otherwise would. You're not going to manage to seal the area behind the driver's seat without a bunch of effort and hitting the proper size is even more difficult.

QdotJ

iTrader: (13)

Damn them!!! -

Ok Paul; since I've been following your install for a while now, what do you suggest. I just went to the parking garage and realized that I can't fit a proper sub box in that small space - 13d x 22w x 6h - Looks like I might go for a zenclosure box after all.

I keep thinking the hatch area is larger than it is...

twotonetrack

I have a fiberglass under-strut Nazar box with a 10w7. If I want to shed some weight I can always remove it with two little wires.

The best of both worlds.

and NEVER put a sub in the stock location. It sounds horrible and you will just have to spend money moving it. I know.

Paul350Z

iTrader: (1)

For tight bass you'll need a sealed box. Ported boxes sacrafice a bit accuracy for gain (volume). Every speaker has a box size that it performs best in and by adjusting the size of the box you can change the sound of the speaker to suit your taste. I didn't go completely flat - I put a bit of gain bump in the low end but not too much at all.

QdotJ

iTrader: (13)

Which Zenclosure sub-box did you go with? There is one that fits directly under the strut, and one that goes between the strut and the cabin of the car. I'd hate to lose that space directly behind me as I use it often; then again I'd also hate to have wasted money on the cargo net, as the direct understrut box removes those all together.

Decisions, decisions.

Is the possibility of having 6.5" subs or "deep" midrange drivers in the rear speaker section a feasible solution?

I'm trying not to waste space. I've also seen inverted subs with boxes that sit in the actual spare wheel-well - How do these work/ sound?

Looking for simple tight bass, nothing boomy as I mostly listen to lounge, jazz and things of that nature.

Thanks to everyone for their help.

bdahern

iTrader: (9)

I have a single JL 10w3v2 in a the Zenclosures under strut box powered by a Rockford Fosgate amp I had left over from my last car (can't remember the model offhand but I think it puts out 300 watts bridged) and it sounds great. I listen to a lot of different music and it is plenty of bass for me. You do lose some trunk room but i think you would actually lose more usable space with the "type s" enclosure, because you lose all the space behind the strut and really, how much can you fit under it?