Help:Wiring for 2nd amp now instead of later....
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Help:Wiring for 2nd amp now instead of later....
I will eventually get a sub and a 2nd amp. I'm about to install my components with their amp. What do I need to do now so when I install the second amp and sub I can just plug it in?? Do you have to run 2 power lines and rca's?? Please help with this one because I'd rather not have to take everything out again if possible.
Originally Posted by Barrymcockiner
I will eventually get a sub and a 2nd amp. I'm about to install my components with their amp. What do I need to do now so when I install the second amp and sub I can just plug it in?? Do you have to run 2 power lines and rca's?? Please help with this one because I'd rather not have to take everything out again if possible.
Just don't connect the power wire to any power before its connected to the new amp on the other end. I would connect the remote wire and wrap it good with electrical tape to avoid it coming in contact with metal in the meantime.
No each amp does not need a separate power run. Typically I install a 4 gauge wire from the battery to a location accessible to both amps, usually to a distribution block. From the block to the amp powering the sub I continue using 4 gauge. To the second amplifier running the regular speakers I use an 8 gauge wire. That covers a wide variety of installations so unless your installing over 1500 watts of power this should be fine if not overkill
Wire Gauge VS. Recommended Max Fuse Size*
0 awg = 325 amps
1 awg = 250 amps
2 awg = 200 amps
4 awg = 150 amps
6 awg = 125amps
8 awg = 100 amps
10 awg = 60 amps
12 awg = 40 amps
14 awg = 25 amps
16 awg = 15 amps
*This is a general guide. Always go with the
equipment manufacturer's recommendation.
All wire gauges in AWG (American Wire Gauge)
0 awg = 325 amps
1 awg = 250 amps
2 awg = 200 amps
4 awg = 150 amps
6 awg = 125amps
8 awg = 100 amps
10 awg = 60 amps
12 awg = 40 amps
14 awg = 25 amps
16 awg = 15 amps
*This is a general guide. Always go with the
equipment manufacturer's recommendation.
All wire gauges in AWG (American Wire Gauge)
To Compute system current draw requirements
you must first ascertain the approximate current draw (in amperes) of the load (your amplifier or amplifiers). Calculate the total power of each amp by multiplying the number of channels by the number of RMS watts per channel). If you have multiple amps, add up the total power figures to arrive at a grand total. Second, double your grand total power figure. And, last, divide by 13.8. The result is your system's approximate max current draw in amperes. Typical examples are below:
you must first ascertain the approximate current draw (in amperes) of the load (your amplifier or amplifiers). Calculate the total power of each amp by multiplying the number of channels by the number of RMS watts per channel). If you have multiple amps, add up the total power figures to arrive at a grand total. Second, double your grand total power figure. And, last, divide by 13.8. The result is your system's approximate max current draw in amperes. Typical examples are below:
Current Draw by Power
(RMS total watts) Power.....................Current (max Amperes)
100---------------- 14.5
200----------------- 29
400------------------ 58
600----------------- 87
800---------------- 116
1000--------------- 145
1200--------------- 174
1400--------------- 203
(RMS total watts) Power.....................Current (max Amperes)
100---------------- 14.5
200----------------- 29
400------------------ 58
600----------------- 87
800---------------- 116
1000--------------- 145
1200--------------- 174
1400--------------- 203
Current in this case, is the maximum amount of pre-clipping amperes drawn. With all amplifiers, in the quiet state, less than an ampere may be consumed. Power drawn is proportional to signal amplitude on an exponential curve. System wiring should always be configured for the highest rated consumption usage.
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Joined: Dec 2006
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From: Florida
Originally Posted by Ichigo
No each amp does not need a separate power run. Typically I install a 4 gauge wire from the battery to a location accessible to both amps, usually to a distribution block. From the block to the amp powering the sub I continue using 4 gauge. To the second amplifier running the regular speakers I use an 8 gauge wire. That covers a wide variety of installations so unless your installing over 1500 watts of power this should be fine if not overkill
Wire Gauge VS. Recommended Max Fuse Size*
0 awg = 325 amps
1 awg = 250 amps
2 awg = 200 amps
4 awg = 150 amps
6 awg = 125amps
8 awg = 100 amps
10 awg = 60 amps
12 awg = 40 amps
14 awg = 25 amps
16 awg = 15 amps
*This is a general guide. Always go with the
equipment manufacturer's recommendation.
All wire gauges in AWG (American Wire Gauge)
0 awg = 325 amps
1 awg = 250 amps
2 awg = 200 amps
4 awg = 150 amps
6 awg = 125amps
8 awg = 100 amps
10 awg = 60 amps
12 awg = 40 amps
14 awg = 25 amps
16 awg = 15 amps
*This is a general guide. Always go with the
equipment manufacturer's recommendation.
All wire gauges in AWG (American Wire Gauge)
To Compute system current draw requirements
you must first ascertain the approximate current draw (in amperes) of the load (your amplifier or amplifiers). Calculate the total power of each amp by multiplying the number of channels by the number of RMS watts per channel). If you have multiple amps, add up the total power figures to arrive at a grand total. Second, double your grand total power figure. And, last, divide by 13.8. The result is your system's approximate max current draw in amperes. Typical examples are below:
you must first ascertain the approximate current draw (in amperes) of the load (your amplifier or amplifiers). Calculate the total power of each amp by multiplying the number of channels by the number of RMS watts per channel). If you have multiple amps, add up the total power figures to arrive at a grand total. Second, double your grand total power figure. And, last, divide by 13.8. The result is your system's approximate max current draw in amperes. Typical examples are below:
Current Draw by Power
(RMS total watts) Power.....................Current (max Amperes)
100---------------- 14.5
200----------------- 29
400------------------ 58
600----------------- 87
800---------------- 116
1000--------------- 145
1200--------------- 174
1400--------------- 203
(RMS total watts) Power.....................Current (max Amperes)
100---------------- 14.5
200----------------- 29
400------------------ 58
600----------------- 87
800---------------- 116
1000--------------- 145
1200--------------- 174
1400--------------- 203
Current in this case, is the maximum amount of pre-clipping amperes drawn. With all amplifiers, in the quiet state, less than an ampere may be consumed. Power drawn is proportional to signal amplitude on an exponential curve. System wiring should always be configured for the highest rated consumption usage.
Good info though.
Originally Posted by ROSELL0522
Good explanation. We need this on a sticky for ALL the amp questions lately. I always go larger incase you want to upgrade later down the road. Having it too large can't hurt anything it just allows the power to flow with less resistance. I also make the assumption(mistake) that the person is installing over 1500watts because I go all out. Sorry Good info though.
Good info though.
I agree about installing larger gauge wire than is needed for future upgrades. I like using 4 gauge back from the battery, its pretty much a standard in my book as not many installs require more than 10-20 ft of power wire, unless a really big install rolls in then I bust out the 2 maybe 0 gauge.I like overkill
https://my350z.com/forum/audio-builds/242161-it-s-mine-finally-it-s-all-mine-pics-inside.html
Last edited by Ichigo; Jun 26, 2007 at 08:13 PM.
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As usual I agree with Ichigo. If i were to wire your car (talking to OP), I would run 4awg back to a fused distribution block. This way all I need to do when the 2nd amp is installed is run a jumper from the dist block to the amp and pop in a fuse. I would handle the remote/rca/speaker wire/ground just as he explained above.
I also agree that some of this info shuold be stickied. I gotta tell you that there is a site that really helps explain a LOT and I have linked to it several times.
http://www.bcae1.com/
This site has almost anything you want to know. The menu on the right is very extensive but you will most likely find the info you are looking for. It even has some interactive Flash things.
One of my favorite pages deals with this exact topic (power wire):
http://www.bcae1.com/wire.htm
I also agree that some of this info shuold be stickied. I gotta tell you that there is a site that really helps explain a LOT and I have linked to it several times.
http://www.bcae1.com/
This site has almost anything you want to know. The menu on the right is very extensive but you will most likely find the info you are looking for. It even has some interactive Flash things.
One of my favorite pages deals with this exact topic (power wire):
http://www.bcae1.com/wire.htm
Originally Posted by Ichigo
No each amp does not need a separate power run. Typically I install a 4 gauge wire from the battery to a location accessible to both amps, usually to a distribution block. From the block to the amp powering the sub I continue using 4 gauge. To the second amplifier running the regular speakers I use an 8 gauge wire. That covers a wide variety of installations so unless your installing over 1500 watts of power this should be fine if not overkill
Wire Gauge VS. Recommended Max Fuse Size*
0 awg = 325 amps
1 awg = 250 amps
2 awg = 200 amps
4 awg = 150 amps
6 awg = 125amps
8 awg = 100 amps
10 awg = 60 amps
12 awg = 40 amps
14 awg = 25 amps
16 awg = 15 amps
*This is a general guide. Always go with the
equipment manufacturer's recommendation.
All wire gauges in AWG (American Wire Gauge)
0 awg = 325 amps
1 awg = 250 amps
2 awg = 200 amps
4 awg = 150 amps
6 awg = 125amps
8 awg = 100 amps
10 awg = 60 amps
12 awg = 40 amps
14 awg = 25 amps
16 awg = 15 amps
*This is a general guide. Always go with the
equipment manufacturer's recommendation.
All wire gauges in AWG (American Wire Gauge)
To Compute system current draw requirements
you must first ascertain the approximate current draw (in amperes) of the load (your amplifier or amplifiers). Calculate the total power of each amp by multiplying the number of channels by the number of RMS watts per channel). If you have multiple amps, add up the total power figures to arrive at a grand total. Second, double your grand total power figure. And, last, divide by 13.8. The result is your system's approximate max current draw in amperes. Typical examples are below:
you must first ascertain the approximate current draw (in amperes) of the load (your amplifier or amplifiers). Calculate the total power of each amp by multiplying the number of channels by the number of RMS watts per channel). If you have multiple amps, add up the total power figures to arrive at a grand total. Second, double your grand total power figure. And, last, divide by 13.8. The result is your system's approximate max current draw in amperes. Typical examples are below:
Current Draw by Power
(RMS total watts) Power.....................Current (max Amperes)
100---------------- 14.5
200----------------- 29
400------------------ 58
600----------------- 87
800---------------- 116
1000--------------- 145
1200--------------- 174
1400--------------- 203
(RMS total watts) Power.....................Current (max Amperes)
100---------------- 14.5
200----------------- 29
400------------------ 58
600----------------- 87
800---------------- 116
1000--------------- 145
1200--------------- 174
1400--------------- 203
Current in this case, is the maximum amount of pre-clipping amperes drawn. With all amplifiers, in the quiet state, less than an ampere may be consumed. Power drawn is proportional to signal amplitude on an exponential curve. System wiring should always be configured for the highest rated consumption usage.
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