Alernator Amperage, and Difficulty in Installing a new Alternator
Glad you got it in and working. Which one did you end up going with?
For others reading, one thing to keep in mind, is that it's not the total output of the alternator that matters if we're talking about idling output. I've heard some alternators output more voltage at lower RPM's than others.
FWIW- I'm running 1800 watts (and destroying my hearing, Paul
) using a stock alternator and battery. While I don't listen at insane levels constantly, I'm guessing my alternator will have to be replaced at some point.
For others reading, one thing to keep in mind, is that it's not the total output of the alternator that matters if we're talking about idling output. I've heard some alternators output more voltage at lower RPM's than others.
FWIW- I'm running 1800 watts (and destroying my hearing, Paul
) using a stock alternator and battery. While I don't listen at insane levels constantly, I'm guessing my alternator will have to be replaced at some point.
Originally Posted by Dave 90TT
Well, got the new alternator in, it's working good so far. Holding a steady 14.4 volts even when the stereo is thumping. Also changed out to an Optima yellow top.
Dave
Dave
Originally Posted by StreetOC192
So around 1300 watts + a carPC
Yep, that's exactly right.
Originally Posted by rookie
How much was the unit? did you need to do a core exchange?
Originally Posted by DVFlyer
Glad you got it in and working. Which one did you end up going with?
It was really only a problem at night, with the lights on, the defroster on, the stereo on, and the carPC on, but I figure it's relatively cheap insurance.
Dave
Originally Posted by rookie
Wow, much cheaper than SGPs. Will need to check this out. http://www.excessiveamperage.com/ Thanks!
http://www.excessiveamperage.com/dealers.htm
I think this quote pretty much sums it up...
What the... That's it! Einhorn is Finkle! Finkle is Einhorn!
Last edited by Kwame; Dec 5, 2007 at 01:24 PM.
Originally Posted by rookie
A hundred something probably isn't that bad especially if they have it in stock, do they come powdercoated from the manufacturer? I'll hit up SGP since they are vendors here.
Don't mean to jack the thread but I'm doing the optima swap and the big 3 next week..if I'm running 0/1 gauge from the batt to the amps... should that also be the size of the 3 new cables as well or can I use 4awg ?
Originally Posted by Paul350Z
Look at upgrading your battery. If you're drawing 1300-1500 watts for your CarPC plus busy destroying your hearing with insane levels of sound pressure theres no way the stock alternator can keep up with that punishment. That means the battery is required to provide the power and a stock lead/acid isn't going to last long. A Optima yellow top or equal glass absorbed mat battery is what you need to continue the destruction.
Another thing you can do is to upgrade to more efficient speakers. Every 3dB worth of efficiency means that the same amplifier will provide twice the sound pressure level or you can use half the amount of amplifier wattage to obtain the same sound pressure level.
Mean Green makes alternators which provide about 160-170 amps worth of power. There's another brand that puts out 200 amps made by Kodiak Industries which runs about $500 and will require some custom installation brackets manufactured. These will deliver about 2600 watts worth of DC power. You'll need to upgrade the cables out to your amplifier rack if you intend to add more power to draw that level of power. Not rocket science.
Another thing you can do is to upgrade to more efficient speakers. Every 3dB worth of efficiency means that the same amplifier will provide twice the sound pressure level or you can use half the amount of amplifier wattage to obtain the same sound pressure level.
Mean Green makes alternators which provide about 160-170 amps worth of power. There's another brand that puts out 200 amps made by Kodiak Industries which runs about $500 and will require some custom installation brackets manufactured. These will deliver about 2600 watts worth of DC power. You'll need to upgrade the cables out to your amplifier rack if you intend to add more power to draw that level of power. Not rocket science.
are you an Ear , Nose , and Throat doctor ?
Originally Posted by Crom
Don't mean to jack the thread but I'm doing the optima swap and the big 3 next week..if I'm running 0/1 gauge from the batt to the amps... should that also be the size of the 3 new cables as well or can I use 4awg ?
i would run
0 awg from alt, the + wire, to battery post + terminal under hood
i would remove the negative ground from the under hood battery post to inner fender and replace with zero awg as well
i would run 0 awg from positive under hood battery to hatch for amps
i would put a new under hood battery like a stinger 1000 in your factory location
if your amps take 4 awg power wire run 0 awg as power wire and use a 0 input to 4 awg output reducer at amp
i would use 0 awg ground wires off amps again with reducers 0awg female input 4 awg male output
if your gonna pay $160 for an optima spend $50 more and get a stinger 1000
faster charge less resistance
longer warranty
more ca, and cca
Last edited by 350zspl; Dec 6, 2007 at 04:46 AM.
Originally Posted by StreetOC192
So around 1300 watts + a carPC
[QUOTE=350zspl]i would run
0 awg from alt, the + wire, to battery post + terminal under hood
i would remove the negative ground from the under hood battery post to inner fender and replace with zero awg as well
i would run 0 awg from positive under hood battery to hatch for amps
i would put a new under hood battery like a stinger 1000 in your factory location
if your amps take 4 awg power wire run 0 awg as power wire and use a 0 input to 4 awg output reducer at amp
i would use 0 awg ground wires off amps again with reducers 0awg female input 4 awg male output
if your gonna pay $160 for an optima spend $50 more and get a stinger 1000
^Thanks...
0 awg from alt, the + wire, to battery post + terminal under hood
i would remove the negative ground from the under hood battery post to inner fender and replace with zero awg as well
i would run 0 awg from positive under hood battery to hatch for amps
i would put a new under hood battery like a stinger 1000 in your factory location
if your amps take 4 awg power wire run 0 awg as power wire and use a 0 input to 4 awg output reducer at amp
i would use 0 awg ground wires off amps again with reducers 0awg female input 4 awg male output
if your gonna pay $160 for an optima spend $50 more and get a stinger 1000
^Thanks...
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