I searched, but today my search skills are lacking...

Whats the amperage on the stock alternatorm and second question, how difficult is it to replace the alternator?

 

Well, I managed to find part of my answer; 110 amps.

Still wondering how difficult replacing the alternator is.

 

Here's some useful info....
https://my350z.com/forum/audio-and-video/258772-alternator.html

 

110 amps, and not really. There is just one really long bolt that holds the alternator in place and it is very difficult to get it out without dropping the fans.

 

If you were trying to tell me I don't need to upgrade my alternator, thanks for the advice. I've done the big three, with 0/1 gauge wire, power and ground running to my distro block for my amps is 0/1 gauge, etc... I've done everything I can to make the current flow nice. Still need a more powerful alternator. With my system pounding, I can slowly, oh so very slowly, watch the battery voltage drop while the car is idling.

Again, though, thanks for the advice. Not really the question I was asking, though.

 

Hmm, ok, I'll have to look more into it.

 

Not what I was pointing out, The answer to your first question was in that thread. Also, if you are thinking of upgrading, there are some references to HO Alts in that thread as well. Thought it would have helped out.

How manny watts and what class amps are you running?
EDIT: Just looked at your cardomain page......so you are running about 1100 watts rms class a/b, you upgraded the big3, and you have a cap - and you are still dimming the lights? What battery are you using? The stocker or did you upgrade that as well?

 

I had the same problem you've described. I have the same power distribution set up also, with the big 3.. In the end, all I needed was a better battery. See my Yellow Top thread stickied up top. This may solve your current drainage problem..

 

Well, I answered my first question myself, in my second post on the thread.

JL 500/1, a 450/4, and a e2150, plus a good bit of other electronic equipment, including a carPC.

 

AHHHHH, the "X" factor!!!

Just trying to help you out.

 

For some reason, despite using a lower power processoer (Core 2 Duo, equivalent to a Pentium-M), a low powered graphics card, and pretty much everything else low powered, the carPC (and assorted components, like the USB hub, the DVD drive, and the screen) seem to draw quite a bit of power.

As for a source for a higher powered alternator, Excessive Amperage will do a 200 amp direct bolt on, for a pretty reasonable price.

 

Yeah, That was one of the deterrents that kept me from going the carpc route. I really wanted one though.

And that site is a great find. 200amp is a great output and if the price is not insane then go for it.

 

Look at upgrading your battery. If you're drawing 1300-1500 watts for your CarPC plus busy destroying your hearing with insane levels of sound pressure theres no way the stock alternator can keep up with that punishment. That means the battery is required to provide the power and a stock lead/acid isn't going to last long. A Optima yellow top or equal glass absorbed mat battery is what you need to continue the destruction.

Another thing you can do is to upgrade to more efficient speakers. Every 3dB worth of efficiency means that the same amplifier will provide twice the sound pressure level or you can use half the amount of amplifier wattage to obtain the same sound pressure level.

Mean Green makes alternators which provide about 160-170 amps worth of power. There's another brand that puts out 200 amps made by Kodiak Industries which runs about $500 and will require some custom installation brackets manufactured. These will deliver about 2600 watts worth of DC power. You'll need to upgrade the cables out to your amplifier rack if you intend to add more power to draw that level of power. Not rocket science.

 

This company is good but very very slow. I got my 240 amp alternator from them but it took some time.

 

Not hard at all, just loosen the belt tensioner from the bottom, remove the belt and tackle the alternator screws, finally remove the plug from the back and slap the new alternator in.

 

Drop the fans for sure. That requires pulling the radiator hoses off, at least it did for me. Two bolts, top / long and bottom /short AND the ground wire on the back of the alternator and a bracket that holds other wires with clips. highly recommend getting the ground wire and bracket off FIRST, then the bolts, then you can turn the alternator enough to unplug it reaching down from the top. If the new alt does not have screw holes for the bracket on the back then I would cut those wires loose and pull the bracket out so it's not just hanging there.

 

Well, got the new alternator in, it's working good so far. Holding a steady 14.4 volts even when the stereo is thumping. Also changed out to an Optima yellow top.

Dave

 

how many watts are you running

 

So around 1300 watts + a carPC

 

How much was the unit? did you need to do a core exchange?