Alright Ive heard from many people that the only type of sub you should put in the stock Bose behind the drivers seat location is a free air sub and that anything else will sound like shyt. Others said building a box inside would be necessary. A smart (damn) near geeky freind of mine told me to just put a bag or two of polyfill in the hole and it will sound fine. As of yesterday I have the hole filled with two bags of poly fill and tsunami silencers on the holes and a MTX 7500 and it sounds great. Very loud and tight. I cant imagine that it could get much better. Any ideas or reasons why I had a different experience with a non free air sub???

 

^^ Often wondered about the same point you mention. I tried something similar to your experiment, and the result was satisfactory (I would venture to say it was very good). There are SubW units on the market that claim they can do this. If you go ahead with this installation, please post a "review."

--Spike

 

I tried this but I think either my amp or sub is messed up. I'm probably going with a $100 Bazooka tube to go in there.

 

have a jl w6 v2 back in the stock location getting 500 watts. sounds good, i used dyno mat to build an enclosure in the area and sealed everything up with
it. it took a whole trunk kits worth but it does an awsome job of making a seeled enclosure.

 

The install is complete. It sounds great. The bass is tight and fairly loud. I do have an amp that probably is overkill hooked up to it but it was available so i used it. I definitely think that the silencers around the major holes helped. My freind told me that the poly fill acts to reduce the airspace in the hole and increase the abilility to create pressure. This helps to reduce the drone that many describe from just slapping a sub in there. I think my assessment of it sounding good is accurate, especially considering my old maxima had almost 3 grand worth of speakers and subs in it. Any guys interested in tips Im happy to help.

The pros of this setup:

1.) allows a completely stealth subwoofer installation as the amp is in the Cubby behind the passenger seat ( great for us who live in questionable neighborhoods)

2.) allows you to keep the small amount of space your Z has available in your trunk rather than dedicating it to a subwoofer and enclosure.
3.) Feels like a massage while driving home from work!

Cons:

1.) It is a single 10" sub so dont expect that it will be as loud as the truck next to you with dual 15s in it.

2.) Requires a little extra time to Dynamat the hole.

3.) The angle of the hole limits your subwoofer options to those without ridiculously large or deep magnets. Otherwise a longer subwoofer (like the Almani Series 7) we tried will not fit due to it hitting the bottom of that hole.

 

rkemp1

glad you happy

only thing is on cons #1 a single 10" in the right enclousre can get extremely loud

 

4 shizzle. I just had to put that disclaimer in for those who expect their 10 inch woofer to win DB sound competitions.

 

my nizzle

in 0"-18" spl, a 10 driver can win under right conditions

a digital designs 9510g or a solox can walk over a larger driver under certain conditions

but i do understand what you are saying

later gator

 

Where I can get poly fill? What material is it?

 

Michael's is where I got mine and Im sure you should be able to find it in any major craft store. Its actualy polyester fiber hence the Polyfil name. Comes in bags that looks like a plastic pillow.

 

Your friend's assessment of polyfill is backwards. You put polyfill in a box to make it appear larger to the sub by slowing down the air inside the box.

A box that is too large can not only sound bad, but can also be detrimental to your subs.

 

I dont much understand or care about the science but it damn sure sounds good!

 

Maybe your stock enclosure is a little too small for the requirements of the sub, which is why the polyfill works for you. I was just correcting your friend's theory. To take up space in the enclosure to make it smaller, you need something hard and non-resonant.

 

ook, thanks for the correction. Im definitely no sound scientist but i guess that makes sense. I was under the impression that the mtx 7500 i have in there would work better with a smaller enclosure not a bigger one so i will have to test that theory and pull some of the polyfill and see if it makes it sound better or worse. we will c!

 

Wholly out of control engineering! Stop before someone puts their ear out.

A good primer to start learning speaker box design is Sound System Engineering by Davis and Davis. Sams published the first edition, Focal Press the second. Older books but good dope none the less.

A sealed subwoofer needs an air freaking tight seal. All the way. Air tight and tighter. The woofer can be driven harder/louder as the air acts as a spring to limit the travel in both directions - the volume of the box has to be correct - the spring has to be the right size to prevent driving the speaker element into the basket or over extending it and stressing the surround.

A free-air woofer is loose and sloppy compared to a sealed box or even a properly designed ported enclosure. It is designed without the external limiting (controlling) influence of a sealed box volume. Better than nothing - and better than a normal sealed box subwoofer in a free-air position to be sure.

 

some pics of a jlw6v2 in the factory location

this set up sounds great, doesnt rattle , looks real clean and is stealth.

i recomend it to anyone shooting for those goals, if you are trying to win db competions this is not for you!

 

Is this a 10 or 12?

 

I just started to install my system with a MTX Thunder6000, got a few questions CHEFREY,

How did you covered the big gaps inside the enclosure since the Dynamat is not hard enough?

What about the the lip of the sub not matching with the factory holes in the plate? did made a dummy ring to attach the sub?

In my system, the plate rattles pretty strong, besides the dynamat, did you do something else?

Thanks for the pics, really helped... I'll post mine in a few days.

 

it is a jl10w6v2 meaning that it is a 10 (sorry)


as far as seeling the area goes you just have to cover all the ares that have holes and joints and then go over them again creating false walls using whole sheets of dynomat with the dynomat from top to bottom and side to side including where the seat belt is, you have to sure to seel everything 100% air tight or it will not sound as good and that will also help quiet the rattling. as you can see from the photos there is hardly any metal showing in the cbby hole, i used a whole trunk kit during the process.

i di not use the factory mounting holes on the bracket i just adjusted the sub position till i could drill new holes and not use anyof the old ones.

make sure you line the ring were the sub screws to with dynomat even if it takes two layers to make sure the sub is seeled in place and stop the rattling

 

How the hell did you keep the sub cover from rattling? I cannot get this to stop. Anyone have any suggestions?