2006.350ZR

iTrader: (1)

Hey everyone. Well here goes my first post on my350z.com!

Okay lets get to it. Im about to give the ZR a hefty upgrade in the audio department and i think my biggest hang up is what's the BEST method for dampening the door finisher (panel) and the actual door itself. I have heard that the Z doors are very prone to buzzing and pretty much sounding like poo with the addition of most aftermarket mid bass drivers.





Sooooo...

I would like a few tips if i could. As far as what will be replacing the door factory "crap", i went with the JL ZR650-CSi component system. I will also be fiberglassing a set of custom made kick panels for a second ZR650-CSi set.









As far as deadening material i didnt really know how much i would need to do the whole car so... i just bought some stuff from Elemental Designs and figured i can buy more after i see how far the order i got takes me..

Fed Ex dropped me off:

50 Sq Ft of eDead v1SE² (60 mils)
50 Sq Ft of eDead UE (120 mils)
20 Sq Ft of eDead v4 - TekLite (.25")
1 eDead v3 Gallon - Black (v3black)





So here is my question... would it be overkill to take the glass out and take the door "apart" to gain access to the inside skin of the door to start the deadening there? or would just deadening the inside metal face of the door and the backside of the finishing panel be enough? I just want to make sure to do this the "right way"..Ive never took the door apart any farther than taking the finishing panel off...

So what would you advise??

doug

iTrader: (5)

sure does look purdy

crawfeesh

definitely looks nice! I was thinking of installing my cdt braxials in the stock location since they didn't come with speaker grills, but this is tempting me again to get the pods!

doug

iTrader: (5)

definately get pods.. its a waste without it

2006.350ZR

iTrader: (1)

Yes the pods for the doors from Nazar are definitely nice. If you take the finishing panel off you will get the bigg picture on just how much of an afterthought the audio system was. Only about a third of what looks like the factory speaker grill is perforated to let the sound through.

I did have a bit of grinding to get the pod to seat snug but they are very high quality pieces. I still need to do the rage filler, sand them up, and then wrap them in black Swede.

Installing was easy enough. The only additional work I had to do was to fab a few MDF rings to get the fit and depth I was looking for. I used some Liquid Nails to fuse the ring to the pod.

Time for filler and Swede...

Ge|atinousFury

iTrader: (1)

Looking very nice!

Mind if I ask what camera you are using?

2006.350ZR

iTrader: (1)

Im using a Canon PowerShot Pro 1 8MP

StreetOC192

iTrader: (7)

Everyone is so in awe of your pics that your question has been overlooked

Here is what I would do with what you have:
50 Sq Ft of eDead v1SE² (60 mils)
50 Sq Ft of eDead UE (120 mils)
20 Sq Ft of eDead v4 - TekLite (.25")
1 eDead v3 Gallon - Black (v3black)

On the doors -
v1SE² - as much as you can reach in to do on the outer metal skin (inside the door itself)
UE - 1 layer on interior metal skin
v4 - 1 layer on interior metal skin (on top of the UE)

Hatch -
paint out the v3 on the walls and floor of the hatch area and if there is any left, the floor boards.
Use whatever is left of the v1SE² and UE on the hatch lid.

See how far that gets you. You 'shouldn't' need more of anything.

2006.350ZR

iTrader: (1)

okay.. so has anyone around here "cracked" the door open... I read in a service manual you take the glass out first by lining up the 3 bolts that hold the window in place with the holes on the metal panel, then slide the glass up and out of the door. After that remove the bolts that hold the metal cover plate in place.

Is this all there is too it? Is the window motor mounted to the back side of the cover plate?

Any precautions from someone with some experience on the matter?

StreetOC192

iTrader: (7)

Just realized you have a roadster.....so you probably won't have as much to cover in your trunk as in the hatch of the coupe.

I didn't fully open up the doors, i just reached in as far as i could through the speaker opening. Because you are using the pods and since you will be deadening the he|| out of the inner skin of the door, you shouldn't have to deaden the entire outer skin. These are 6.5" mids, not 10" subs you are mounting in the doors. But if you really want to do it anyway, I'm sure someone has done it. I know HARRYPOTTER did some very extensive deadening on his car, he may be able to help if you PM him.

16psibrick

iTrader: (10)

sorry just read this...

okay, with nazars door pods, here is what i suggest:

1. dampen the inside the pod as much as possible with v1, or UE if you have that

2. dampen the backside of the PLASTIC door panel as much as you can with v1 or UE, as much as you can , but odnt over do it of course i say two layers of v1 or one layer of ue is fine

3. on the metal part, use v4 foam if you have it, and cover hte entire area, this will stop plastic on metal contact vibrations, but i would acutally not dampen the stock speaker hole, so the speaker has some room to breath out of.

thats about it, i dont use the liquid much, since i find hte V1ue more effective and easier to use if you use the liquid, and i assume you arent living in san diego, allow a LOT of time for it to dry in winter weahter, a good 2 days...

b

2006.350ZR

iTrader: (1)

Sorry for not posting a “thank you” sooner. Everyone’s input was very helpful.

Well I grew some ***** and cracked the door open. It wasn’t hard to do at all. Took me 10 minutes at the most. It will be super easy to dampen the outer skin with the window and motor plate out of the way.



I got started with the plastic finishing panel first with the EU. It took me all day to do it but I got faster at it as I went along. I’m going to hit the door skin and metal cover plate tomorrow when I get the time. I don’t foresee them taking near as much time to complete as the plastic panel took... then it’s on to the driver’s side.

Here are a few pics of my progress….

_NIZMO_

iTrader: (5)

wow very meticulous work. Kudos

SuperBlack350z

iTrader: (59)

subscribed. I need to do this.

Ge|atinousFury

iTrader: (1)

VERY neat work with the dampening material

Your meticulousness is very admirable. Looks like you have a great install coming together nicely...thanks for the pics and please keep em' coming!

415mm

iTrader: (103)

Wow nice pics.. you sir make me feel like a lazy a$$. keep us posted on the install it looks like its going to be a nice setup for sure.

LAKERSFAN

iTrader: (12)

are you planning on doing the floor of the interior as well?

does anyone know what i have to do in order to pull the carpet from the interior?
obviously need to remove the seats and the center console(peice that devides the seats" and the center piece for the dash that holds the stereo.

i assume the whole rear panel section (where the rear speakers and bose sub go) has to come off?

do the kick panels near your feet just in front of the door just pop off?

how do you remove the knee pad section? do i have to remove the whole panel under the dash?

2006.350ZR

iTrader: (1)

Hey LAKERSFAN, I do plan to deaden the entire car. I’ve gutted the car for the most part, with the exception of the seats, center console and carpet.

I’m holding off until I can find enough time to complete the floor deadening in one shot and put it right back together. She is by the way my daily driver.







As far as how to remove the seats and carpet, it’s pretty straightforward. The seats should be your fist step and are easy enough to remove.. just unbolt them, unplug them (if powered) and carefully remove. Next would come the center console. There are several tutorials online showing you step by step how to remove it. There is a write up in the "how to" section or you can follow this link:

http://liljerk.morpheus.net/350Z/

There are several write-ups on that link that may be a bigg help.

Here is a pic of the carpet piece showing where the button clips are that hold it in place after you have removed all the panels holding the outer edge in place



And yes… The whole rear panel “where the rear speakers and bose sub go” does need to be removed in order to remove the carpet

I’m fairly certain you will be able to remove the “knee pad section” easily once the center console has been removed.

(Anyone chime in and correct me if I’m wrong)

The kick panel covers have a single cap screw on each of them. After you remove the screw caps they simply pop off.

I hope this helps out

LAKERSFAN

iTrader: (12)

thanks for the reply 2006.350zr.
Yeah, ive printed all those tutorials for the rear panel section and the center console removal.(very helpful btw) but havent found anything to take it a step further in removing the knee pad panels. i looked it over last weekend while i had the seats out and center console partially out and i think its one piece that goes along the bottom of the dash. I've searched several forums but havent come up with anything as far as a diy.

if you wouldnt mind when you do this yourself, let me know if you figure it out.

thanks!