New Amp Installed, Not Turning On...
01-08-2008 | 06:13 PM
#1
New Amp Installed, Not Turning On...
Installed my amp tonight, but it won't turn on. Now, everything is hooked up correctly, I grounded to one of the hanging sub brackets behind the driver's seat, and the power and RCA's are ran on opposite sides of the car... not that these affect the amp turn on...
Now, I am still waiting on my components and subwoofer, so there is nothing connected to the speaker wire from the amp. Will not having the sub and comps connected prevent the amp from even turning on because there is no signal being returned from the missing equipment? I would think that the thing would at least light up and display some settings, but nothing happens.
Now, I am still waiting on my components and subwoofer, so there is nothing connected to the speaker wire from the amp. Will not having the sub and comps connected prevent the amp from even turning on because there is no signal being returned from the missing equipment? I would think that the thing would at least light up and display some settings, but nothing happens.
01-08-2008 | 06:24 PM
#3
Originally Posted by SuperBlack350z
are you using a remote turn on wire?
01-08-2008 | 06:29 PM
#4
yeah, so if you have a remote turn on wire connected to the headunit, the light of the amp should turn on when the car is on. I kinda got mixed up about your statement that it was built in the RCAs because i thought you meant that your amp "senses" a signal from the RCA which in return , turns on your amp. That's not the case.
My only tip would make sure that the ground is correct. This is always the culprit on many installs i have encountered. Power wire should be correct. It's not easy to mess up on that.
btw, what amp are you running? Does it have rca input and output on the back of it?
My only tip would make sure that the ground is correct. This is always the culprit on many installs i have encountered. Power wire should be correct. It's not easy to mess up on that.
btw, what amp are you running? Does it have rca input and output on the back of it?
01-08-2008 | 06:36 PM
#5
I am running an Alpine MRV-F345. I am thinking it is either the ground or remote turn on.
I seriously almost lost my mind trying to find a ground, as I didn't have the right bolt sizes to fit the holes in the glove box area. Do you think the stock sub mount brackets that hang from the ceiling of the stock location is a decent enough ground? If that is good to go, it has to be the remote turn on.
I seriously almost lost my mind trying to find a ground, as I didn't have the right bolt sizes to fit the holes in the glove box area. Do you think the stock sub mount brackets that hang from the ceiling of the stock location is a decent enough ground? If that is good to go, it has to be the remote turn on.
01-08-2008 | 06:49 PM
#6
Originally Posted by KManZ
I am running an Alpine MRV-F345. I am thinking it is either the ground or remote turn on.
I seriously almost lost my mind trying to find a ground, as I didn't have the right bolt sizes to fit the holes in the glove box area. Do you think the stock sub mount brackets that hang from the ceiling of the stock location is a decent enough ground? If that is good to go, it has to be the remote turn on.
I seriously almost lost my mind trying to find a ground, as I didn't have the right bolt sizes to fit the holes in the glove box area. Do you think the stock sub mount brackets that hang from the ceiling of the stock location is a decent enough ground? If that is good to go, it has to be the remote turn on.
As for the remote wire, does your headunit have a seperate blue remote wire? or are you using the one that is from the 350z harness kit (example:metra wire harness)?
01-08-2008 | 07:03 PM
#7
Pull the head unit and connect a separate remote wire and connect it to the proper place on the amp. This will eliminate one possibility
Are you using an inline fuse between the amp and the battery? is it connected and the fuse good?
Do you have a voltage tester to see if the amp is getting power at the terminal?
It sounds like that ground might need a new location. If you cant find a bolt to ground to, grab a dremel or some sandpaper and remove some paint from a large enough piece of metal and use a self tapping screw.
Are you using an inline fuse between the amp and the battery? is it connected and the fuse good?
Do you have a voltage tester to see if the amp is getting power at the terminal?
It sounds like that ground might need a new location. If you cant find a bolt to ground to, grab a dremel or some sandpaper and remove some paint from a large enough piece of metal and use a self tapping screw.
Last edited by Ichigo; 01-08-2008 at 07:06 PM.
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01-09-2008 | 03:48 AM
#9
Originally Posted by Ichigo
Pull the head unit and connect a separate remote wire and connect it to the proper place on the amp. This will eliminate one possibility
This is the first thing I am going to try tonight. I really hope this is the cause.
Are you using an inline fuse between the amp and the battery? is it connected and the fuse good?
Yes, it is a brand new fuse from the Knukoncepts kit I got. BTW, their kits are very high quality.
Do you have a voltage tester to see if the amp is getting power at the terminal?
Along with with another strand of speaker wire, this is on my Home Depot shopping list for this evening.
It sounds like that ground might need a new location. If you cant find a bolt to ground to, grab a dremel or some sandpaper and remove some paint from a large enough piece of metal and use a self tapping screw.
I actually found a nice spot under the glovebox, but I didn't have a screw that fit in the hole. Will try to find the correct size tonight at the HD... I can do it, HD can help
This is the first thing I am going to try tonight. I really hope this is the cause.
Are you using an inline fuse between the amp and the battery? is it connected and the fuse good?
Yes, it is a brand new fuse from the Knukoncepts kit I got. BTW, their kits are very high quality.
Do you have a voltage tester to see if the amp is getting power at the terminal?
Along with with another strand of speaker wire, this is on my Home Depot shopping list for this evening.
It sounds like that ground might need a new location. If you cant find a bolt to ground to, grab a dremel or some sandpaper and remove some paint from a large enough piece of metal and use a self tapping screw.
I actually found a nice spot under the glovebox, but I didn't have a screw that fit in the hole. Will try to find the correct size tonight at the HD... I can do it, HD can help
Replied.
So tonight's shopping list: 4ft of 16 gauge speaker wire, voltage tester, correct size screw. This sucks because I had been hoping to be done with the whole "pulling the head unit/ wiring" business yesterday... you can only pull the dash so many times before you lose your fricken mind.
01-09-2008 | 05:06 AM
#10
don't pull the head unit just yet.. first test your amps..
check the positive and the negative with the volt meter.. if you are seeing 11-14 volts.. then check the turn on lead and the negative.. if you are still seeing 11-14 volts then the amp is in protection.. then you need to check your RCA's and speaker wiring to the sub.
if you are not getting voltage to the power or turn on.. then you need to find a spot on the car with metal grounding.. use that for your negative on your volt meter then check the positive on the amp.. if you then get power.. then your ground is bad to the amp..
if you are getting voltage on your positive and negative.. but none on your turn on lead.. then you need to trace the wire to the head unit to see whats wrong
check the positive and the negative with the volt meter.. if you are seeing 11-14 volts.. then check the turn on lead and the negative.. if you are still seeing 11-14 volts then the amp is in protection.. then you need to check your RCA's and speaker wiring to the sub.
if you are not getting voltage to the power or turn on.. then you need to find a spot on the car with metal grounding.. use that for your negative on your volt meter then check the positive on the amp.. if you then get power.. then your ground is bad to the amp..
if you are getting voltage on your positive and negative.. but none on your turn on lead.. then you need to trace the wire to the head unit to see whats wrong
01-09-2008 | 05:13 AM
#11
2 trouble shoots based on your statement
1- attach your remote wire directly to a 12v source... if the light on your amp dosnt light up... check fuses, the problem is with the amp.
2- you NEED to sand down your ground wire tie-in. the sheet metal is rust resistant coated and its not a ground till you sand it down to bare metal. I think this is your problem right here.
1- attach your remote wire directly to a 12v source... if the light on your amp dosnt light up... check fuses, the problem is with the amp.
2- you NEED to sand down your ground wire tie-in. the sheet metal is rust resistant coated and its not a ground till you sand it down to bare metal. I think this is your problem right here.
01-09-2008 | 05:15 AM
#12
Originally Posted by MUZZY
2 trouble shoots based on your statement
1- attach your remote wire directly to a 12v source... if the light on your amp dosnt light up... check fuses, the problem is with the amp.
.
1- attach your remote wire directly to a 12v source... if the light on your amp dosnt light up... check fuses, the problem is with the amp.
.
way too much work if you have a volt meter
01-09-2008 | 05:38 AM
#13
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Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Atlanta, GA
Just my opinion,,and we all know about opinions..LOL It sounds like you need to run the remote wire directly from the harness. It should be the solid blue wire. I also agree with doug,,,use the voltmeter/multi-meter to narrow things down. That is always the best/safest way to troubleshoot.
I hope this helps., Good Luck.
I hope this helps., Good Luck.
01-09-2008 | 06:31 AM
#14
Thanks for all the help fellas, I am eager to get this solved tonight and move on to the component install. Definitely going to get a voltmeter and sand down that ground location. You guys ever heard of someone using the stock sub bracket to ground?
Am I good to assume that the amp should turn on even if there are no components or sub attached to the RCA's or speaker cable?
Am I good to assume that the amp should turn on even if there are no components or sub attached to the RCA's or speaker cable?
01-09-2008 | 07:26 AM
#15
Originally Posted by KManZ
You guys ever heard of someone using the stock sub bracket to ground?
Originally Posted by KManZ
Am I good to assume that the amp should turn on even if there are no components or sub attached to the RCA's or speaker cable?
Originally Posted by doug
are the speaker wires connected when it goes into protection?
when my amp went into protection.. here is what i did..
1) disconnected speaker wires
2) disconnect RCA's
3) fired up amp
....
amp was no longer in protection..
turned the car off
.....
plugged in RCA's and fired up car...
amp was no longer in protection
turned car off
......
plugged in speaker wires...
amp goes into protection
check noticed that the speaker wires on the left side of the sub were disconnected and touching..
if you disconnect everything and only the speaker wires are putting it into protection.. it could also be the connection inside the box..
if you are going into protection without RCA's and speaker wires..
i would get 3 wires ((2) positive (1) ground) .. connect the 1 positive to positive input and the other positive to the remote turn on.. then twine them at the ends.. then connect the ground.. then have somone hold the amp while you make the connection at the battery.. .if the amp is still in protection.. something is wrong with the amp.. if not.. then something is wrong with your wire connections to the amp.. either your remote wire is bad.. maybe its sheered and touching metal of the chassi or even your power wire.. or maybe your ground
when my amp went into protection.. here is what i did..
1) disconnected speaker wires
2) disconnect RCA's
3) fired up amp
....
amp was no longer in protection..
turned the car off
.....
plugged in RCA's and fired up car...
amp was no longer in protection
turned car off
......
plugged in speaker wires...
amp goes into protection
check noticed that the speaker wires on the left side of the sub were disconnected and touching..
if you disconnect everything and only the speaker wires are putting it into protection.. it could also be the connection inside the box..
if you are going into protection without RCA's and speaker wires..
i would get 3 wires ((2) positive (1) ground) .. connect the 1 positive to positive input and the other positive to the remote turn on.. then twine them at the ends.. then connect the ground.. then have somone hold the amp while you make the connection at the battery.. .if the amp is still in protection.. something is wrong with the amp.. if not.. then something is wrong with your wire connections to the amp.. either your remote wire is bad.. maybe its sheered and touching metal of the chassi or even your power wire.. or maybe your ground
01-09-2008 | 08:09 AM
#16
Originally Posted by doug
i used a rachett to remove the child seat tie downs.. then i grinded it down with a dremmel.. then i got a ground attachment and reattached the child seat tie down
01-09-2008 | 08:19 AM
#17
Originally Posted by KManZ
My ground wire is pretty short (3 ft), hopefully there is a straight shot into the trunk from the glove box.
01-09-2008 | 02:13 PM
#18
Captain, this is Engineering, we have ignition! Alpine MRV-F345 is fully operational!
Got home and tested out the terminals with the voltmeter, had power but either no ground or remote... so I took Doug's advice and routed the ground to the child latch down, sanded it off, routed it into the glove box. It was a stretch, had to remount the amp for it to reach, but we are good to go.
Then I made a new remote wire from left over speaker wire, took apart the dash (AGAIN) and center console, routed it in, everything back together.
Moment of truth came. I hooked everything back up, attached the HU, turned the ignition, and BLING! we have power to the amp.
Thanks for the help guys... not sure if it was the ground or the remote, but I wasn't going to take any chances so did them both. Now, on to the PAC-SWIX.
Got home and tested out the terminals with the voltmeter, had power but either no ground or remote... so I took Doug's advice and routed the ground to the child latch down, sanded it off, routed it into the glove box. It was a stretch, had to remount the amp for it to reach, but we are good to go.
Then I made a new remote wire from left over speaker wire, took apart the dash (AGAIN) and center console, routed it in, everything back together.
Moment of truth came. I hooked everything back up, attached the HU, turned the ignition, and BLING! we have power to the amp.
Thanks for the help guys... not sure if it was the ground or the remote, but I wasn't going to take any chances so did them both. Now, on to the PAC-SWIX.
01-09-2008 | 03:56 PM
#20
glad everything worked out. yeah, power wire is always idiot proof. It's always the ground wire in most cases i've seen.
now, just wait until your new speakers and subs are actually hooked up..lol.
now, just wait until your new speakers and subs are actually hooked up..lol.