Roper215

2008 Touring no navi

Keeping stock headunit, and rear speakers...

Adding Focal 165K2P's and a JL 10 in stock location.

Powering the Fronts with a blaupunkt pnp275, and sub with another one of the same. (small class D w/ low THD, and it will fit under the seats...

What I need is a Bose wiring Diagram, I could not make heads or tails of what I found so far...

1. Does the headunit put out a positive and a negative for the front woofer and tweeter, or just one set and the amplifier separates/filters the signal and the amp outputs four (4) wires, +/- woofer and +/- tweet for each side...

I am using a PAC OEM 2 to splice into the headunit outputs, converting the high level to low level (rca's) running that to the amplifiers, and then rerunning all new speaker wires.

Planning on splicing into the wires for the fronts and for the sub obviously...

I need the bose amplifier colors for the fronts, rears and subwoofer +/-.

I also need to know if what I am planning on doing will work and peoples ideas about it too...

I do not want to change the headunit, I like the stock look, and it keeps prying eyes at bay...

Thanks... first post here, but I am not a complete newb...

Escobar

iTrader: (27)

https://my350z.com/forum/audio-and-video-52/

Roper215

Yeah, I looked there, couldn't understand wtf they were saying about the +/- speaker/ radio harness mess...

Or maybe I am just technically inept...

NoHyperbole

The PAC line output converter, the stock head unit (even Bose), and the stock subwoofer location will be the weak links of your system. I kept the stock head unit in my Z for similar reasons and used an AudioControl LC6i, which is a far better product than the PAC, to connect to two Rockford Fosgate amps (one for fronts and one for subs; stock rear speakers are driven by head unit). Even with the LC6i, I am not fully pleased with the sound quality. The mids are overboosted, and the highs are not high enough (I even drilled out the restrictive tweeter covers). You will not be able to get a fully flat signal without an add-on equalizer. I am using MB Quart components that I bought two years ago and used in my previous car, so I know what they are capable of sounding like, although I was also using an Eclipse head unit then. So I believe that the quality of the head unit really does make a difference. It might be the quality of the CD player as well as the voltage of the amplifier outputs. Also, I recommend you buy one of the boxes from Zenclosures (I have the two 10" subwoofer version). You will get much better sound, but you will lose some precious cargo space.

Roper215

Thanks for the info.

I agree with your statement about my headunit being the weak link... I will more than likely end up installing a new headunit...

Any knowledge on how the blaupunkt amp will sound?

I have heard that those enclosures are good, but I am not wanting to lose any of the little cargo area that I have left, I may construct my own fiberglass enclosure but I can make one out of wood, so I probably won't spend the time...

What about a JL Audio cleansweep?

So, if I understand what you are saying, I could have bought much less expensive components, and noticed no real difference in overall sound quality?

NoHyperbole

I think your Blaupunkt amp will be perfect. I think it's 75w X 2, so that is enough power for your Focals. You really don't need the rear speakers. If you need a little rear fill, then the head unit can power those. You aren't missing anything by not having comparable Focals back there.

If you build an enclosure, then you will be able to use the stock location, but you may have to fill the surround with a lot of dynamat or something similar to quell rattles and other unwanted vibrations. It's a bit of work.

The JL Audio Cleansweep, or the Rockford Fosgate 3sixty.2, is the best solution if you want to keep the factory head unit. They both have built-in multi-channel equalizers, so you can tweak each frequency to make it flat. However, these are very expensive pieces, more than $400. So I think you're better off getting a high-quality head unit for that price. But I know how you feel about "prying eyes." The only way to mitigate that is to get a single-DIN, non-touchscreen head unit. I don't think someone would break in just to take that, but you never know.

Roper215

JL has a new cleansweep CES or something that's only 100 bucks from www.sonicelectronix.com

I appreciate the wealth of information you've given me, it has made me feel a little better about what I've bought...

As for the wiring diagram, can you get me a schematic? When I redid my Acura RSX-S, I was able to get the actual wiring diagram where it was understandable...

I need to know what colors the appropriate channels are. Front Left, Right and if the tweeters are on a seperate set, and the sub wires...

Also, would you use the high level inputs or would you convert to a low level input and feed the amps RCA's from the PAC-OEM 2?

As for the Dynamat, I ordered 82 sq ft of some stuff called Edead, as good as dynamat but about 1/3 the cost...

www.edesignaudio.com they sell really good amps for the money and their subs rock pretty hard too, but I prefer the JL, just because I'm a name brand *****... but anyway...

Thanks again for all of the info... I have a couple weeks before I actually begin the install, and I can actually identify the wires once I get everything apart, but I like to have my ducks in a row before I undertake a project like this...

One more thing, is there anything special I need to know about disconnecting the battery and removing the seats? When I did an install in the RSX, I hooked everything back up but the seats and tested the system, once I reinstalled the seats and cranked the engine it threw an SRS light and the stealership took me for 100 bucks for 5 minutes of work, I am going to try and avoid that this go round...

NoHyperbole

You're welcome.

The JL Audio CL-SES is an add-on to the Cleansweep; it gives you more inputs, that's all.

Unfortunately, I don't have any schematics for the Bose wiring. I do know that it's far different from the stock radio's wiring (different impedances for speakers, etc.). This may prove to be a snag; I simply do not know.

Don't use PAC-OEM anything; you will get inferior sound quality. If you are going to keep your stock head unit and get pretty good sound quality, you must use at least an LC6i, or a Cleansweep or three-sixty.2 for better sound quality (thanks to the EQ). Whatever you choose will be the only piece you need.

Edead should be fine for your purposes.

As for disconnecting the battery, the only thing I can think of to be aware of the connectors for the side airbag sensors in the seats.

Also, you may have to do some modification to fit the fuse near the battery so it and the positive wire still fit under the plastic cover.

Roper215

OK, so I am getting an LC6i...

what are the colors of the wires for the front speakers and subwoofer? Please denote positive and negative and side please...

Thanks

NoHyperbole

I do not know what the colors of the wires are; I did not install my system myself.

I am curious to hear your impressions of your setup when it is installed. Please post that as a reply here so I can find it.

Take it easy.

Roper215

I need help with installing my K2P's... I do not think that I can install them and keep the stock grills... if anyone has any info otherwise, please post...

Roper215

What should have taken me 8 hours, took me 3 days...

First I installed a JL Cleansweep not the LC6i... long story, glad I got the JL product... anyway...

Hook every thing up, no sound out of the fronts or the new sub...

All green on the amps (meaning power, ground and remote turn on are good) but no sound... I begin checking everything again... All of the splices, the wiring... everything... After 3 hours of that I determine that everything is correct... So then I start messing with the JL unit... Just for S's and G's I put in the test CD and hit the calibrate button... Bingo... the JL unit doesn't let ANY sound pass through it until the calibration is tested... But somehow they forget to mention that specific fact in the manual...

Now the fronts are working... but still no Sub...

I check the Orange and White wires (Sub signal wires) coming from the amp... I try a lot of different hook up methods and still nothing...

I try this for another several hours... Like 8... eventually I decide to try tapping the rear input channels of the JL unit off of the front channels (to give my sub a stereo input, creating a mono sub channel)... This way the sub gets a complete signal from both the left and right, the JL unit modify's the signal, the crossover refines that signal further and then I am good...

Low and behold the first time I did that it worked...

So the long and short of it, is that it sounds pretty good, I spend and entire Friday night and the weekend on what should have taken me 8 hours...

Fronts sound good, like I was told about the Focals, the Highs are a bit harsh, but nothing a little X-over can't cure... and everything else sounds really good, I am impressed... Worth the money, just not sure if it was worth the time...