Need expert help in selecting the right subs and amps...
#1
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Need expert help in selecting the right subs and amps...
I am completely lost and was wondering if anyone can help me match the right components for the optimal setup?
So, I was thinking of this:
SUBS: 2x10"s (500w each)
Rockford Fosgate P2D210? (Dual 2-ohm voice coils)
or
Rockford Fosgate P2D410? (Dual 4-ohm voice coils)
I just bought a custom subwoofer box for 2 10s from ebay Zenclosures... seems like they make some good custom sub boxes, since they have a pretty high rating.
FRONT COMPONENTS: Focal 165V2S (150w)
REARS: Use stock speakers (how much power do we need for these?)
AMPS:
- 1 for 2 x subs (Class D) Alpine MRPM850 (800w)
or Alpine MRPM1000 (1000w)?
- 1 for speakers (Class A/b, 4 channel, 4x90w) Alpine MRPF550
(Will this power the Focal fronts well?)
If it is not too much trouble, can you make suggestions of the actual model numbers if suggesting another component?
I am confused by how to match ohms, wattage, etc. Can someone help me double check the correct pairing and matching of them for optimal performance and efficiency?
Thanks!
So, I was thinking of this:
SUBS: 2x10"s (500w each)
Rockford Fosgate P2D210? (Dual 2-ohm voice coils)
or
Rockford Fosgate P2D410? (Dual 4-ohm voice coils)
I just bought a custom subwoofer box for 2 10s from ebay Zenclosures... seems like they make some good custom sub boxes, since they have a pretty high rating.
FRONT COMPONENTS: Focal 165V2S (150w)
REARS: Use stock speakers (how much power do we need for these?)
AMPS:
- 1 for 2 x subs (Class D) Alpine MRPM850 (800w)
or Alpine MRPM1000 (1000w)?
- 1 for speakers (Class A/b, 4 channel, 4x90w) Alpine MRPF550
(Will this power the Focal fronts well?)
If it is not too much trouble, can you make suggestions of the actual model numbers if suggesting another component?
I am confused by how to match ohms, wattage, etc. Can someone help me double check the correct pairing and matching of them for optimal performance and efficiency?
Thanks!
#2
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OK, I'm confused. What exactly do you have right now? It looks like you have the box and 2 amps....is this correct? If so, are you looking for just sub recommendations or sub and component recommendations?
I would disconnect the rears and forget they even exist. Use your 4 channel amp and buy a component set that has the ability to be bi-amped. You will be much happier IMHO.
I would disconnect the rears and forget they even exist. Use your 4 channel amp and buy a component set that has the ability to be bi-amped. You will be much happier IMHO.
#3
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What sort of sound are you looking for?
Since you have the Zenclosure box you need to match your subwoofers to the 0.75 cu.ft. internal volume of the box. Simple enough math using a Thiel-Small calculator.
This formula has been turned into a java script - Use this one:
http://www.carstereo.com/help/Articles.cfm?id=26
Number of drivers is 2, Isobaric is No. The Vas, Fs, and Qts come from the speaker manufacturer's web site. Your Vb is 0.75. The Qtc is the sort of sound that you're looking for with a 0.707 being flat with the lowest possible -3 dB point (F3). Moving up to a 1.1 to 1.2 the lower end will get some peak which will likely not seem too un-natural. If you're in to hip-hop you'll want as un-natural sounding as possible with 1.5-1.6 gaining 5 or 6 dB in the mid-base while giving up the subsonic response.
Since you have the Zenclosure box you need to match your subwoofers to the 0.75 cu.ft. internal volume of the box. Simple enough math using a Thiel-Small calculator.
This formula has been turned into a java script - Use this one:
http://www.carstereo.com/help/Articles.cfm?id=26
Number of drivers is 2, Isobaric is No. The Vas, Fs, and Qts come from the speaker manufacturer's web site. Your Vb is 0.75. The Qtc is the sort of sound that you're looking for with a 0.707 being flat with the lowest possible -3 dB point (F3). Moving up to a 1.1 to 1.2 the lower end will get some peak which will likely not seem too un-natural. If you're in to hip-hop you'll want as un-natural sounding as possible with 1.5-1.6 gaining 5 or 6 dB in the mid-base while giving up the subsonic response.
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Originally Posted by GeauxLadyZ
Jesus Paul i had no idea i needed a degree in quantum mechanics to install some subs--thanks bro
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#8
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Originally Posted by Paul350Z
Most people don't know that there is science behind the matching of a speaker element and enclosure. You don't need a degree in quantum mechanic but a basic understanding of the works of Boltzmann, Bell, and Schroder's Cat would help.
Ya all jokes aside...mad respect for your skills. It takes a motivated man to integrate physics and other various math equations into producing the perfect sound with such an application as car audio. It just shows your true love for autos. Keep up the good work.
#9
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The sales rep, David, over at Pacific Stereo in Woodland Hills gave me this setup... Just not sure how he matched the watt or rms...
SUBS: Two JL 10w3v2-d2 (10 inch each, Dual-2 ohm)
FRONT COMPONENTS: Focal 165VR 6.5"
REARS: Not Used, Disconnect
AMPS:
- Mono: for the two subs (Alpine MRP-M650)
- 4-channel: for speakers (Alpine MRP-F450)
AMPKIT: Fosgate wires (Are these RCA wires?)
DYNAMAT: Doors and Trunk Lid (is this enough?)
Can you guys help out a lost noob here? =/
SUBS: Two JL 10w3v2-d2 (10 inch each, Dual-2 ohm)
FRONT COMPONENTS: Focal 165VR 6.5"
REARS: Not Used, Disconnect
AMPS:
- Mono: for the two subs (Alpine MRP-M650)
- 4-channel: for speakers (Alpine MRP-F450)
AMPKIT: Fosgate wires (Are these RCA wires?)
DYNAMAT: Doors and Trunk Lid (is this enough?)
Can you guys help out a lost noob here? =/
#11
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Originally Posted by xdrius
The sales rep, David, over at Pacific Stereo in Woodland Hills gave me this setup... Just not sure how he matched the watt or rms...
SUBS: Two JL 10w3v2-d2 (10 inch each, Dual-2 ohm)
FRONT COMPONENTS: Focal 165VR 6.5"
REARS: Not Used, Disconnect
AMPS:
- Mono: for the two subs (Alpine MRP-M650)
- 4-channel: for speakers (Alpine MRP-F450)
AMPKIT: Fosgate wires (Are these RCA wires?)
DYNAMAT: Doors and Trunk Lid (is this enough?)
Can you guys help out a lost noob here? =/
SUBS: Two JL 10w3v2-d2 (10 inch each, Dual-2 ohm)
FRONT COMPONENTS: Focal 165VR 6.5"
REARS: Not Used, Disconnect
AMPS:
- Mono: for the two subs (Alpine MRP-M650)
- 4-channel: for speakers (Alpine MRP-F450)
AMPKIT: Fosgate wires (Are these RCA wires?)
DYNAMAT: Doors and Trunk Lid (is this enough?)
Can you guys help out a lost noob here? =/
I'm with doug on the sub situation.
The amp kit should be power wire, fuse holder, distribution block, and rca's.
#12
ZL33PR
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Thanks guys, this is really helpful. I had a feeling that I was being fattened up for the kill. I pretty much want quality sound. Nice, clean, tight overall sound... high frequency, mid-range, and nice, tight bass. I usually listen to Hip Hop and Progressive Trance.
This setup includes the Pioneer AVIC-D3 with bluetooth and the iPod cable.
And since this is not from Best Buy or Al & Ed's, I qualify for the $200 Pioneer rebate offer.
I was quoted for 2250 before taxes for this setup - equipment and installation.
Al and Ed's quoted me $2800... =/
So with this setup, the changes needed are:
- change the speaker amp to 2-channel instead of 4? (I decided to connect the stock rear speakers as well.)
- switch from JL audio to Image Dynamics IDQ or FI Q Subs?
(Which specific model would be the best value - best bang for the buck?)
Also, I'm not understanding this:
"The amp kit should be power wire, fuse holder, distribution block, and rca's."
Can you elaborate on this StreetOC192?
Thanks guys... I'm glad I came here to make sure that I am getting a good system at a good deal.
This setup includes the Pioneer AVIC-D3 with bluetooth and the iPod cable.
And since this is not from Best Buy or Al & Ed's, I qualify for the $200 Pioneer rebate offer.
I was quoted for 2250 before taxes for this setup - equipment and installation.
Al and Ed's quoted me $2800... =/
So with this setup, the changes needed are:
- change the speaker amp to 2-channel instead of 4? (I decided to connect the stock rear speakers as well.)
- switch from JL audio to Image Dynamics IDQ or FI Q Subs?
(Which specific model would be the best value - best bang for the buck?)
Also, I'm not understanding this:
"The amp kit should be power wire, fuse holder, distribution block, and rca's."
Can you elaborate on this StreetOC192?
Thanks guys... I'm glad I came here to make sure that I am getting a good system at a good deal.
Last edited by xdrius; 03-19-2008 at 12:05 AM.
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Originally Posted by xdrius
Thanks guys, this is really helpful. I had a feeling that I was being fattened up for the kill. I pretty much want quality sound. Nice, clean, tight overall sound... high frequency, mid-range, and nice, tight bass. I usually listen to Hip Hop and Progressive Trance.
This setup includes the Pioneer AVIC-D3 with bluetooth and the iPod cable.
And since this is not from Best Buy or Al & Ed's, I qualify for the $200 Pioneer rebate offer.
I was quoted for 2250 before taxes for this setup - equipment and installation.
Al and Ed's quoted me $2800... =/
So with this setup, the changes needed are:
- change the speaker amp to 2-channel instead of 4? (I decided to connect the stock rear speakers as well.)
- switch from JL audio to Image Dynamics IDQ or FI Q Subs?
(Which specific model would be the best value - best bang for the buck?)
Also, I'm not understanding this:
"The amp kit should be power wire, fuse holder, distribution block, and rca's."
Can you elaborate on this StreetOC192?
Thanks guys... I'm glad I came here to make sure that I am getting a good system at a good deal.
This setup includes the Pioneer AVIC-D3 with bluetooth and the iPod cable.
And since this is not from Best Buy or Al & Ed's, I qualify for the $200 Pioneer rebate offer.
I was quoted for 2250 before taxes for this setup - equipment and installation.
Al and Ed's quoted me $2800... =/
So with this setup, the changes needed are:
- change the speaker amp to 2-channel instead of 4? (I decided to connect the stock rear speakers as well.)
- switch from JL audio to Image Dynamics IDQ or FI Q Subs?
(Which specific model would be the best value - best bang for the buck?)
Also, I'm not understanding this:
"The amp kit should be power wire, fuse holder, distribution block, and rca's."
Can you elaborate on this StreetOC192?
Thanks guys... I'm glad I came here to make sure that I am getting a good system at a good deal.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...ate+RFK4D.html
If you insist on hooking up the rear stock speakers just run them off of headunit power. And you will want a 2-channel amp that is rated at 75-100 watts rms per channel to drive those Focal components.
Either of those subs will be perfect for you as it sounds like you want more of an SQ setup than SPL.
The Alpine MRP-M650 is rated at 400x1rms @ 4ohms or 600x1rms @ 2ohms.
The IDQ10 wants 400 rms in either config, so you would want the IDQ10D2.v3 and wire it in series to achieve a 4ohm load.
The Fi Q wants 1000 rms so your best bet is to get the dual 4ohm driver and wire it parallel to achieve a 2ohm load.
Of these choices, I would pick the IDQ unless you wanted to change amps to a bigger amp rated for 1000 rms output. You will be very happy with the IDQ and that Alpine amp though.
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Originally Posted by xdrius
This sales guy is telling me that JL Audio is better than Image Dynamics...
He also says that it will sound the best in the Zenclosures custom sub box that I have.
He also says that it will sound the best in the Zenclosures custom sub box that I have.
#16
when figuring the Thiel-Small calculations, do you take into affect the diver displacement?
.75 cubic ft total with a .1 driver displacement would bring it to a total of .65 cubes? Or would the T.S. still be based off the original .75?
sorry for hijacking...
.75 cubic ft total with a .1 driver displacement would bring it to a total of .65 cubes? Or would the T.S. still be based off the original .75?
sorry for hijacking...
#17
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wwait wait, what exactly are you getting for the quoted 2800 dollars?
if you say you already have a box and headunit, and so the rest is 2800 bucks? if thats true, take a drive up brotha...lol...unless Al and Eds have gone way up market in their work recently
2800 will get you pretty far with me espeically if you are going with just a clean box under the strut...
i mean hell:
DLS Iridium with kicks kicks
DLS RA20/RA10 front and sub amp
2 IDQs
labor and wiring...
i would put that against what ever they are selling you there hehe
if you are interested, PM me, hell, this is easy of an install enough i can pre built parts and have my good friend do it for you down there
if you say you already have a box and headunit, and so the rest is 2800 bucks? if thats true, take a drive up brotha...lol...unless Al and Eds have gone way up market in their work recently
2800 will get you pretty far with me espeically if you are going with just a clean box under the strut...
i mean hell:
DLS Iridium with kicks kicks
DLS RA20/RA10 front and sub amp
2 IDQs
labor and wiring...
i would put that against what ever they are selling you there hehe
if you are interested, PM me, hell, this is easy of an install enough i can pre built parts and have my good friend do it for you down there
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I dunno bing... You're great and all, but I would put my money on the 17 year old high school kid at Al and Ed's who's probably worked there for 8 days, and will be fired for stealing in 2 weeks.
#20
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Originally Posted by 16psibrick
wwait wait, what exactly are you getting for the quoted 2800 dollars?
if you say you already have a box and headunit, and so the rest is 2800 bucks? if thats true, take a drive up brotha...lol...unless Al and Eds have gone way up market in their work recently
2800 will get you pretty far with me espeically if you are going with just a clean box under the strut...
i mean hell:
DLS Iridium with kicks kicks
DLS RA20/RA10 front and sub amp
2 IDQs
labor and wiring...
i would put that against what ever they are selling you there hehe
if you are interested, PM me, hell, this is easy of an install enough i can pre built parts and have my good friend do it for you down there
if you say you already have a box and headunit, and so the rest is 2800 bucks? if thats true, take a drive up brotha...lol...unless Al and Eds have gone way up market in their work recently
2800 will get you pretty far with me espeically if you are going with just a clean box under the strut...
i mean hell:
DLS Iridium with kicks kicks
DLS RA20/RA10 front and sub amp
2 IDQs
labor and wiring...
i would put that against what ever they are selling you there hehe
if you are interested, PM me, hell, this is easy of an install enough i can pre built parts and have my good friend do it for you down there