looking for some nice quality amps
05-21-2008, 10:45 AM
#1
looking for some nice quality amps
Alright, so I have 2 image dynamics IDQ woofers on the way to my house.
looking for an amp that will put out around 1200 @ 2 ohms give or take.
I'm looking for nicer... higher quality amps... but nothing to crazy like brax and mcintosh etc.I was looking at DLS but since they are Class A/B I know that they will probably draw a whole lot of power. I dont really feel like upgrading my electrical system rather than just my battery but if these amps look like they'll be the best choice then I will. I was also looking at ARC Audio, Audison, Image Dynamics (new amps that came out), Helix Esprit Line, Diamond Audio, Us Amps if anyone has any input please feel free to post up an help me out!
Thanks in Advance
looking for an amp that will put out around 1200 @ 2 ohms give or take.
I'm looking for nicer... higher quality amps... but nothing to crazy like brax and mcintosh etc.I was looking at DLS but since they are Class A/B I know that they will probably draw a whole lot of power. I dont really feel like upgrading my electrical system rather than just my battery but if these amps look like they'll be the best choice then I will. I was also looking at ARC Audio, Audison, Image Dynamics (new amps that came out), Helix Esprit Line, Diamond Audio, Us Amps if anyone has any input please feel free to post up an help me out!
Thanks in Advance
05-21-2008, 11:02 AM
#2
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1200 watts rms into 2ohms is a tall order. there aren't a whole slew of amps that will do that. Most monoblocks put out their max into 1ohm. Did you order two dual 2ohm subs?
05-21-2008, 11:18 AM
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FWIW- I have all DLS amps in my car (approx 2000 watts) and didn't upgrade the electrical system.
And my A6 puts out 1200 watts to my two IDMAX 12's (1ohm load... as Street noted above)
And my A6 puts out 1200 watts to my two IDMAX 12's (1ohm load... as Street noted above)
05-21-2008, 01:10 PM
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Originally Posted by folgrz
You didnt upgrade the battery or anything? Your lights dont dim/flicker at all when the music hits? Only reason I ask is because thats a lot of wattage to not upgrade the electrical system.
In other words, I may have 2000 watts, but I'm not playing those 2000 watts all the time. And most of the power is in the bass amp. I can play "clean" music all day long with the bass turned down. If I went off the amplifier ratings, for max output, I'd need two alternators.
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05-21-2008, 01:12 PM
#8
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Also, I see that you are in NY. If you happen to know Kwame from this forum, he's been in my car while he was out this way for vacation and can give you and idea of what 1200 watts through two IDMAX 12's sounds like.
05-21-2008, 01:36 PM
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i had 2 idq v2 12's running off of a phoenix gold ti600.2 back in the day and it slammed ooh soo hard. 600w rms should be fine for those subs, the gain you would get by running 1200w to them is nominal. having a well designed box will make more of a difference than the amp.
05-21-2008, 03:06 PM
#10
Originally Posted by DVFlyer
No, didn't upgrade the battery or alternator. Have two runs of 0ga wire (overkill). Yes, I think my lights flicker when I bass really hits, but I don't drive at night often enough to notice. If I sit and crank a song with heavy bass, I can wreak havoc on my volt gauge, so if I was really going to play it loud on a constant basis, I would upgrade both the battery and the alternator.
In other words, I may have 2000 watts, but I'm not playing those 2000 watts all the time. And most of the power is in the bass amp. I can play "clean" music all day long with the bass turned down. If I went off the amplifier ratings, for max output, I'd need two alternators.
In other words, I may have 2000 watts, but I'm not playing those 2000 watts all the time. And most of the power is in the bass amp. I can play "clean" music all day long with the bass turned down. If I went off the amplifier ratings, for max output, I'd need two alternators.
05-21-2008, 05:03 PM
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MMATS Pro Audio
Digital Amps
MMATS Pro Audio is an awesome company. All amps are hand made in the USA. Throw in 2 12" TREO Subs and you have a rocking system. Plus Class D amps are cleaner then Class A/B Amps. I've been into Car Audio for 9 years, these Subs and Amps ROCK!
Digital Amps
MMATS Pro Audio is an awesome company. All amps are hand made in the USA. Throw in 2 12" TREO Subs and you have a rocking system. Plus Class D amps are cleaner then Class A/B Amps. I've been into Car Audio for 9 years, these Subs and Amps ROCK!
05-22-2008, 07:49 AM
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Here's my understanding of how all the components work in this scenario.
IIRC the rule of thumb for power is to add up the fuses of your amps and that should equal the power of your alternator. Keep in mind, as I mentioned above, this is the MAX current draw, which almost never happens in normal use. And in my case this would have been something like 400amps. Given that I'm running my system on a 110amp stock alternator, it is obvious that the "rule" is more of a guideline.
Battery- powers system with car not running. Possible lower internal resistance in upgraded battery could aid in short high current demands like hard hitting bass. With car running, a better battery offers little advantage. Most people buy the "yellow top" batteries because of marketing or the fact they can mount them in places where a standard battery could not be mounted.
Alternator- powers system while car is running and also charges battery. Higher amp output means it can power a higher powered audio system if current demands call for extra amps. They also have alternators that have a higher output at lower rpm's so you have more power to your audio system (or lights, etc) without having to rev your motor.
Big 3- allows for better flow of electricity (power) necessary when adding large wattage audio components. A benefit whether the car is running or not.
So this means if you're going to run your audio system without the car running, you need a larger battery or two. If not, I see no need. (not that it won't help, but the main purpose of the battery is to power the electronics when the car is off).
If your system is rated above the output of your alternator, you have a reason to upgrade the alternator.
Hopefully, an expert in the area like Bing will be along to correct everything I've written and school us all.
IIRC the rule of thumb for power is to add up the fuses of your amps and that should equal the power of your alternator. Keep in mind, as I mentioned above, this is the MAX current draw, which almost never happens in normal use. And in my case this would have been something like 400amps. Given that I'm running my system on a 110amp stock alternator, it is obvious that the "rule" is more of a guideline.
Battery- powers system with car not running. Possible lower internal resistance in upgraded battery could aid in short high current demands like hard hitting bass. With car running, a better battery offers little advantage. Most people buy the "yellow top" batteries because of marketing or the fact they can mount them in places where a standard battery could not be mounted.
Alternator- powers system while car is running and also charges battery. Higher amp output means it can power a higher powered audio system if current demands call for extra amps. They also have alternators that have a higher output at lower rpm's so you have more power to your audio system (or lights, etc) without having to rev your motor.
Big 3- allows for better flow of electricity (power) necessary when adding large wattage audio components. A benefit whether the car is running or not.
So this means if you're going to run your audio system without the car running, you need a larger battery or two. If not, I see no need. (not that it won't help, but the main purpose of the battery is to power the electronics when the car is off).
If your system is rated above the output of your alternator, you have a reason to upgrade the alternator.
Hopefully, an expert in the area like Bing will be along to correct everything I've written and school us all.
05-22-2008, 09:21 AM
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DVFlyer is right on, with the exception that a different battery is mostly marketing. There is a big difference in a wet cell battery versus a gel cell battery.
Here is some good reading:
https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....&highlight=cap
Although that post was dealing more with caps and the fact I feel they are almost useless, it has good battery info.
Running over 2k watts rms, your best bet is the HO alternator. Once you have that, big3 and battery won't matter too much. It's worth the extra investment for the HO alternator at that power level.
Here is some good reading:
https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....&highlight=cap
Although that post was dealing more with caps and the fact I feel they are almost useless, it has good battery info.
Running over 2k watts rms, your best bet is the HO alternator. Once you have that, big3 and battery won't matter too much. It's worth the extra investment for the HO alternator at that power level.
Last edited by StreetOC192; 05-22-2008 at 09:40 AM.
05-22-2008, 10:27 AM
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I'd run one 0ga wire to your amps (ground too), upgrade to the Big 3 (although I've still procrastinated doing that) and you'd be set.
Worst case, is you find you need more amperage because you crank your music all day long. Then go out and get an alternator. They aren't cheap, though.
Worst case, is you find you need more amperage because you crank your music all day long. Then go out and get an alternator. They aren't cheap, though.
05-22-2008, 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by folgrz
yeah I know that much...... I know that kwame has one and I think 350zspl has one as well
gotta ask them where they bought theirs from just incase I just may need one
gotta ask them where they bought theirs from just incase I just may need one
05-23-2008, 09:01 AM
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just go to Wal-Mart and get a $118 amp... you be da man with this one
http://www.walmart.com/catalog/produ...uct_id=9106555
http://www.walmart.com/catalog/produ...uct_id=9106555