Need help with my sub
Hey guys,
Yesterday on my way back from work, my Sub (JL 10w3) stopped working. What I meant is the sub just stop producing sound. Everything else seems to work normally. The amp (JL mono 250/1) that's supporting the sub seems to be working as well (the green light is on). The sub is located behind the driver seat with the Wicked CAS glove box enclosure. Does anyone know what could possibly go wrong? Did I just blew my sub?
I plan to take my car to the audio shop that did the installation for me Saturday. I want to have an idea of what could go wrong before the shop tells me what happened. I don't want to just listen to what they say and go with it.
thanks alot~!!
Yesterday on my way back from work, my Sub (JL 10w3) stopped working. What I meant is the sub just stop producing sound. Everything else seems to work normally. The amp (JL mono 250/1) that's supporting the sub seems to be working as well (the green light is on). The sub is located behind the driver seat with the Wicked CAS glove box enclosure. Does anyone know what could possibly go wrong? Did I just blew my sub?
I plan to take my car to the audio shop that did the installation for me Saturday. I want to have an idea of what could go wrong before the shop tells me what happened. I don't want to just listen to what they say and go with it.
thanks alot~!!
Originally Posted by cyc5181
Hey guys,
Does anyone know what could possibly go wrong?
thanks alot~!!
Does anyone know what could possibly go wrong?
thanks alot~!!
Most amplifiers have power fuses but some also have output fuses.
Page 15 of your owner's manual has the trouble shooting section: "My amplifier turns on, but there is no output”
Check the input signal using an AC voltmeter to measure the voltage from the source unit while an appropriate test tone is played through the source unit (disconnect the input cables from the amplifier prior to this test). The frequency used should be in the range that is to be amplified by the amplifier (example: 50 Hz for a sub bass application or 1 kHz for a full range / high-pass application). A steady, sufficient voltage (between 0.2 and 8.0-volts) should be present at the output of the signal cables.
Check the output of the amplifier. Using the procedure explained in the previous check item (after plugging the input cables back into the amplifier) test for output at the speaker outputs of the amplifier. Unless you enjoy test tones at high levels, it is a good idea to remove the speaker wires from the amplifier while doing this. Turn the volume up approximately half way. 5V or more should be measured at the speaker outputs. This output level can vary greatly between amplifiers but it should not be in the millivolt range with the source unit at half volume. If you are reading sufficient voltage, check your speaker connections as explained below.
Check to ensure that the speaker wires are making a good connection with the metal inside the terminal block. The speaker wire connectors are designed to accept up to 8 AWG wire. Make sure to strip the wire to allow for a sufficient connection with the metal inside the terminal block.
Originally Posted by cyc5181
Hey guys,
Yesterday on my way back from work, my Sub (JL 10w3) stopped working. What I meant is the sub just stop producing sound.
Yesterday on my way back from work, my Sub (JL 10w3) stopped working. What I meant is the sub just stop producing sound.
Originally Posted by caly2121
By this do you mean the sub moves but does not produce sound?
not sure if it moves, since the sub is facing "down" inside the glove box area.




