I have had enough of this Alpine MRV-F345 amp I have trouble-shot everything in my set up, and it still cuts off (disp "Curr" error) if I turn the volume up past 21 on my Alpine HU. Mind you, the music isn't even that loud when it cuts out. I am currently running my front Infinity Perfect 6.1 components (25-100 RMS) on Ch 1&2, and bridging 3&4 to run the sub (300 watts bridged running Diamond Audio rated at 500 watts RMS). So, I want to do it right this time, with a 2 or 4 channel amp powering the components, and a mono sub amp running the sub.

I have no idea what would serve the purpose best. I would love to keep it all in a nice, 1 amp configuration (1&2 running fronts, bridge 3&4 to run sub), but I can't find anything which can adequately power the sub. As for the components, is it best to run them at 100 watts, or would a lower power level suffice? And the sub would need something to match it at 500 watts, right?

Any suggestions?

 

Don't know why you're having the problems, but the answer to one of your questions is that, if you under power your speakers there's a chance of ruining them in the long run. Probably best to match or slightly over, on the amp.

 

I'm gonna sell my bnib rockford fosgate 2 channel amp. I think it's a 550.2 that puts down 600 watts bridged or 275 x 2 @ 4 ohms. PM me if your interested

 

Thanks for the tip it seems that most of the amps I look at either are underpowered (50watt to 90 watt) or grossly overpowered (150watt +) when trying to match them to the Infinity Kappa 6.1's (25-100watt). I chatted with Crutchfield yesterday, and two different reps stated that running the speakers at 75 to 100 watts would be sufficient. You think I would be in trouble if I went with 75 watts?

I made the decision to go with an Alpine PDX-5, for a number of reasons:

- class D amp runs cooler; important because I am mounting in glovebox
- provides 75 watts RMS + 300 watts RMS bridged for the sub; same as I am running now, and I am more than happy
- smaller design; fits the glovebox
- future expandability; 5 channel amp, in case I get a mini-van ( riiiight)

I would LOVE a quality amp that was rated 100 watts x 2 + 500 watts bridged . My system would be sweet!

 

Thanks for the offer man made my mind up last night though after hours of considerable thought.

 

Alpine PDX 4.150 for the win!

 

Thanks for the help today, man!

 

Did you rewire the sub in parallel? If I remember correctly, it is a dual 2ohm sub and I had it wired in series to 4ohms. if you wired it in parallel it would be a 1ohm load and would cause that amp to go into protect with a "CUR" error.

 

Wait, what? PM'd

 

Replied.

 

Sooooo... if I am wired in parallel instead of series, is my amp fugged? Or will I be spared thanks to "protect mode"?

 

is your amp 1 ohm stable ?

 

According to Crutchfield:

 

according to the owners manual

 

Standby...

Edit: it doesn't say. Would it be worded in another manner maybe?

 

yea underpower is worse than overpower...

pm me if you're interested in a relatively new jl audio e4300 4 channel amp... i think it would help you

 

Thanks for the offer, but I already ordered another amp. Hopefully this is just a wiring issue and I can just keep the one I have now and send the new one back.

But that JL amp you have for sale makes 70w RMS vs. my current amp's 75w RMS... wouldn't the speakers still be underpowered?

 

Ok, I have been doing my own research on subs and have only gotten more confused. When it describes the sub as Dual 2 Ohm Voice Coil, does that mean that the entire sub is a 4 ohm load, or 2 ohm?

 

dual voice coil sub = DVC

dvc 4 ohm sub can be wired to 8 ohms or 2 ohms

dvc 2 ohm sub can be wired to 4 ohms or 1 ohm

dvc 1 ohm sub can be wired to 2 ohms or .5 ohm

dvc .5 ohm sub can be wired to 1 ohm or .25 ohm

 

wanna real get confused i sometimes wire up quad coil subs

svc single voice coil sub = 1 coil
dvc dual voice coil sub = 2 coils
qvc quad voice coil sub = 4 coils