B5I8

iTrader: (1)

That sounds like a damn nice entry level SQ system. Is Bing building the kick panels for you as well? The only thing I'd change is the amp. I'd like to see you go with a DLS Ultimate A7, but that may be well out of your budget. Even the DLS Ultimate A5 would work well for you.

Edit: I take that back about the amp. I thought you were going to run the Rainbow Audio amp but I see Bing must've talked you into a DLS amp already .

StreetOC192

iTrader: (7)

The Crossfire VR705D amp would give you more power to run the sub you really want (IDQ).

Baller23217

Bing will be doing the kick panels for me.

The amp Bing recommended allows me to have an active crossover setup. He said this would be louder and cleaner than just have 2 channels for the component system.

About the low end...I'm used to always having a system in a trunk. And as I'm getting older, I care less and less about blowin the doors off my cars with bass. I listen to rap, so I want the sub to get low and hit hard, but I need a very clean sound, especially at loud volumes.

Roper215

I like the DC Zapco amps.

16psibrick

iTrader: (10)

me to, except just the amp that can run his system would cost way more than his entire budget

b

Roper215

The Zapco DC 1000.4 is 1k. The iPaul is $600 or better, or he could get away with running two Zapco DC series and it would cost about $900. DC 350.2 ($400) and a DC 350.1 ($500).

From the perspective of someone that built a system and used less than optimal parts I believe you are better off buying what you want than trying to cut corners, all that will happen in the long run is you replace the shotty piece of equipment anyway and have spent more...

Also, thats a lot of power for a set of fronts... most normal comp. sets are capable of getting a lot louder off of 50 watts than the human ear can withstand.. I'm not sure if you really need 90 wrms... but I've always been a little confused by those metrics... also, if you're going to send that kind of current (amperage) to the fronts you will definately have to replace the stock speaker wire or risk melting the existing wires...

16psibrick

iTrader: (10)

well, the point is, if you are going to use a four channel to passive a pair of speakres and bridge on a sub, using DC reference amps IMO is a pretty big waste, the whole point of the DC is to do active set ups. why else would one pay $13-400 for a 4x100 amp hehe...the dc1000.4 is lists at $1400, and routinely sells for 1200-1400

the ipaul 4300 MSRPs at $399 hehe, so the dc1000.4 is more than 3 times as much. DC 350.2 is $650-700 there is no such thing as DC350.1, only DC500.1 at around $7-750

Roper215

Woofersetc sells them all day long for much less.. I know no warranty... but that's just a thought... but I agree about the active/passive crossover part...

But IMHO you get what you pay for in an amp... and do not skimp...

StreetOC192

iTrader: (7)

Not always the case though. Some amps are grossly overpriced for what you get.

Depends on the rest of your system as well. You wouldn't use McIntosh amps to power Pyramid speakers.

Baller23217

To me, a watt is a watt.

I'm willing to spend a decent amount of money on a DLS amp because I'll only need 1 amp, I'll have active crossovers, and it looks good.

Like Bing said, I was only going to spend about $350 on the iPaul amp.

Is it true that the comps will get THAT loud off of only 55 watts?

Lsmith9523

^^^Bing will not steer you wrong....

StreetOC192

iTrader: (7)

The volume difference between 55watts rms and 100 watts rms is pretty minimal.

16psibrick

iTrader: (10)

thats ist rue, but its not all about volume, its just about dynamics, listen to a midbass with 50 watts on it and 100 and then 150 and then 200, you can definerly hear hte dynamics of it as headroom increases

hehe zapco is trying to shut down woofers for so long now

StreetOC192

iTrader: (7)

Bing, you are right. I know my answer was over simplified, but I was just answering the question that was asked and no more since I kind of see this thread going nowhere fast.

Baller23217

why going no where fast?

i've gotten great advice from bing and i'm always open to listening to other's opinions about my potential set up.

StreetOC192

iTrader: (7)

The reason I said that is because the whole argument about "a watt is a watt" or "one amp definitely sounds better that the other" is about as redundant and non-conclusive as the argument about capacitors in car audio. It's nothing against you or anyone else.....I agree with you keep in mind.

I also agree you got a lot of useful info in this thread. If you allow bing to work his magic you will be very pleased with the results. I have yet to read or hear about a bad experience with his workmanship.

Baller23217

oh i didn't want this thread to turn into that argument at all.

does anyone else have experience with DLS or the ID10?

It's just hard for me since I don't have any way to hear the speakers or sub locally.

16psibrick

iTrader: (10)

you should do a serach on my i believe demoing speakrse t shops is hardly worth your time...speakres in a room sounds like nothing in a car, and even if you listen to it in a car, a lot has to do with the install quality, the tuning and the car's interior...

honetsly, experiencing things on your own is the best way to go...and take it on faith with me, i do offer htat if you absolutely hate the way what i provide sounds, i will refund your full amount with in a month

b

Baller23217

Oh I trust your opinion because I know you have the experience not only with the equipment, but the same car and the same general set up.

I'm just very anxious to get money to send you so I can get the stock stereo out of my car!...lol

Baller23217

How do you guys feel about porting the box for the sub and tuning it very low (~27 hz)? Does Zenclosures.com do ported boxes? Do I have enough space?