Potential system in the Z - Thoughts?
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HU: Eclipse AVN6620
Components: Rainbow SLC265kick
Amp: Rainbow iPaul 4.300 (90w x 2 for comps + 270w x 1 for sub)
Sub: Image Dynamics IDQ10v3
Sub Enclosure: Zenclosures.com sealed understrut box with amp rack (what is optimal volume for the IDQ?)
Thoughts? Suggestions?
Components: Rainbow SLC265kick
Amp: Rainbow iPaul 4.300 (90w x 2 for comps + 270w x 1 for sub)
Sub: Image Dynamics IDQ10v3
Sub Enclosure: Zenclosures.com sealed understrut box with amp rack (what is optimal volume for the IDQ?)
Thoughts? Suggestions?
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Originally Posted by StreetOC192
+1. I'd be very interested in your thoughts on the Rainbow amp. I've actually never used one.
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Originally Posted by Baller23217
To me, a watt is a watt. I'm pretty sure I will be going with that amp because of it's appearance. I think it is attractive cosmetically, and since the amp will be on display on the amp rack I want it to be pleasing to the eye. The second reason this amp got my attention was that I can run my components and my sub with just one amp. This saves on cost. Although I'd like to give the sub more than 270 watts, there aren't many five channel amps out there for a similar price that do that much power (unless you guys wanna show me some options).
As for other amp options, a very solid 5 channel amp would be a Crossfirevr705d:
http://ampguts.realmofexcursion.com/Crossfire_VR705D/
It's rated conservatively at 12v, so at 14.4v you could expect at least-
4 x 65W @ 4ohms + 1 x 360W @ 2 ohms
or
2 x 260W @ 4 ohms bridged + 1 x 360W @ 2 ohms
But the Rainbow is a 4 channel that you are bridging to 3 channel, right?
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From the site I'd buy the Rainbow amp from:
# 4 x 90 Watt RMS at 4 Ohm
# 2 x 90 Watt RMS + 270W (for BASS) at 4 Ohm
# 4 x 140 Watt RMS at 2 Ohm
# 2 x 270 Watt RMS at 4 Ohm
So yes.
I would need a dual 4 ohm IDQ correct? Probably a dumb question, but I've been out of car audio for a long time.
# 4 x 90 Watt RMS at 4 Ohm
# 2 x 90 Watt RMS + 270W (for BASS) at 4 Ohm
# 4 x 140 Watt RMS at 2 Ohm
# 2 x 270 Watt RMS at 4 Ohm
So yes.
I would need a dual 4 ohm IDQ correct? Probably a dumb question, but I've been out of car audio for a long time.
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How can I get something like this for my components?: ![](http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg290/ctfuke/Nismo%20Z/2008-07-27doorpod1.jpg)
I love how it's leather. I would only want the midbass in the kick pod. I think I want the tweeter in the stock location.
![](http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg290/ctfuke/Nismo%20Z/2008-07-27doorpod1.jpg)
I love how it's leather. I would only want the midbass in the kick pod. I think I want the tweeter in the stock location.
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looks good...i would suggest putting the 6.5" two way slc into kick panels, it will get you much better midbass response and a pretty darn nice center image without any time alginment, it will also get a nice dash high staging, i build custom kicks for the Zs if you want, just PM me...hell i can even provide you a package with the SLC kicks if youwant as i do carry rainbow, through i rarely use it hehe...
other than that, i guess i would say 270 is a bit low for an idqv3, but you can do okay wtih it...you would need a dual 2ohm as mentioned above.
the i-paul is nothing special, just a relatively entry level amplifier, i'd like to see you put a little bit more power upfront, but it will sound okay...
to me, front spekaer location is very important inthe Z![Smilie](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
b
other than that, i guess i would say 270 is a bit low for an idqv3, but you can do okay wtih it...you would need a dual 2ohm as mentioned above.
the i-paul is nothing special, just a relatively entry level amplifier, i'd like to see you put a little bit more power upfront, but it will sound okay...
to me, front spekaer location is very important inthe Z
![Smilie](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
b
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Originally Posted by 16psibrick
looks good...i would suggest putting the 6.5" two way slc into kick panels, it will get you much better midbass response and a pretty darn nice center image without any time alginment, it will also get a nice dash high staging, i build custom kicks for the Zs if you want, just PM me...hell i can even provide you a package with the SLC kicks if youwant as i do carry rainbow, through i rarely use it hehe...
other than that, i guess i would say 270 is a bit low for an idqv3, but you can do okay wtih it...you would need a dual 2ohm as mentioned above.
the i-paul is nothing special, just a relatively entry level amplifier, i'd like to see you put a little bit more power upfront, but it will sound okay...
to me, front spekaer location is very important inthe Z![Smilie](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
b
other than that, i guess i would say 270 is a bit low for an idqv3, but you can do okay wtih it...you would need a dual 2ohm as mentioned above.
the i-paul is nothing special, just a relatively entry level amplifier, i'd like to see you put a little bit more power upfront, but it will sound okay...
to me, front spekaer location is very important inthe Z
![Smilie](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
b
Maybe you can PM me some prices for a package deal of some nice components and kick panels?
Any amps you can recommend to run both the comps and sub while looking good at the same time? Or maybe a sub that would do better with 270 watts?
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i have my reaons why i dont use rianbow, but i dont want to share it here
a little has to do wtih sound, but also other stuff...i did do their CES demo car from last year hehe
why dont you do this, PM me a budget for: amp, speakers/kicks, and i can prolly get a recommendation all together.
bythe way, the idqv3 does NOT fit in the zenenclosure box. the idq10 is oversized.
PM me and we can go from there
b
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why dont you do this, PM me a budget for: amp, speakers/kicks, and i can prolly get a recommendation all together.
bythe way, the idqv3 does NOT fit in the zenenclosure box. the idq10 is oversized.
PM me and we can go from there
b
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a little teaser of some of bings work its fantastic highest ive come across. Very great guy to deal with he will really make time to answer your questions even if you ask as many as i did lmao.
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Originally Posted by Get_Zwole
\
a little teaser of some of bings work its fantastic highest ive come across. Very great guy to deal with he will really make time to answer your questions even if you ask as many as i did lmao.
a little teaser of some of bings work its fantastic highest ive come across. Very great guy to deal with he will really make time to answer your questions even if you ask as many as i did lmao.
He'll be involved in my completed system in some shape or form.
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You can call and get the understrut box "custom" made for the IDQ though. The hole just needs to be opened up about .40" or so. from what I understand Mike has done this for members before, not sure if there is an extra cost or not since it's not a prefab like he normally sells.
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Originally Posted by Roper215
You can call and get the understrut box "custom" made for the IDQ though. The hole just needs to be opened up about .40" or so. from what I understand Mike has done this for members before, not sure if there is an extra cost or not since it's not a prefab like he normally sells.
b
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From what I was told this can be accomplished.
The IDQ10 is like 9.60" for a mounting hole. Box is like 9.20"ish.
The overall OD is small enough to fit within the confines of the understrut box, the hole just needs to be opened up a bit.
The IDQ10 is like 9.60" for a mounting hole. Box is like 9.20"ish.
The overall OD is small enough to fit within the confines of the understrut box, the hole just needs to be opened up a bit.
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REVISED PLAN PER 16psibrick's RECOMMEDATIONS:
HU: Eclipse AVN6620
Components: DLS MS6a 6.5" two way component set in kicks
Amp: DLS CA51 - 55 x 4 + 250 x 1 -- I was told that sending 55 watts to each midbass driver and each tweeter would actually get louder and sound better as it would be actively crossed over...
Sub: Image Dynamics ID10 - the entry level ID sub as I only have 250 watts to play with if I go with that amp.
Opinions?
HU: Eclipse AVN6620
Components: DLS MS6a 6.5" two way component set in kicks
Amp: DLS CA51 - 55 x 4 + 250 x 1 -- I was told that sending 55 watts to each midbass driver and each tweeter would actually get louder and sound better as it would be actively crossed over...
Sub: Image Dynamics ID10 - the entry level ID sub as I only have 250 watts to play with if I go with that amp.
Opinions?