just go sealed, you will be fine, such a low tuning would require a pretty long port...and you still loose the really bottom end, just go sealed IMO...but you can always ask zen

b

 

Bing made my kicks and they are superb

Nazar made my pods and they are also top notch

i use the CDT gold 6.5" and 5.25 " off a ZED Deuce

drive down to me 2 hours and demo it

 

Travis,

How may hours do you estimate the install of the components in kicks, HU (AVN6620), sub, and amp (DLS 5 channel mounted on Zenclosures amp rack) will take?

 

i had Bing do mine

need to remove your kicks ship them with the comps to Cali to Bing so he can glass them in , and finish in leather, vinyl, suede , or paint

once the kicks have returned i need at LEAST 1 full day with the car

i just find rushing does not work for the end result your looking for

Thanks

 

How's this sound? I found a deal on a diff. amp setup:

HU: Eclipse AVN6620

Comps: DLS MS6a 6.5" in kicks built by Bing

Amps: JL 300/4 (75 w x 4) and JL 500/1

Sub: Fi Q 12"

 

For the amp, take a look at the Alpine PDX 4.150.

150W RMS x 4

or

150W RMS x 2 and 300W mono-sub by bridging channels 3 & 4.

Thats what I just installed, am running Polk SR6500's, and a Diamond Audio 10" sub (can't recall the model). The comps are not broken in yet, but let me tell you, the system is LOUD and CLEAR. The amp is small, very sleek. Class D as well. Costs $460 from woofersetc.

Then again, you can't go wrong with Bing and Ken (StreetOC192), they are gurus of car audio.

 

I'd like to have a 4 channel amp just for the components. Bing recommended doing this and having an active crossover setup which he suggested would be "louder and cleaner".

 

I liked my DLS RA50, but ended up going with one amp for my comps and another for the sub. I went with the DLS A6 for my sub and am pleased.

 

Anyone with any experience with Stereo Integrity subs? I was recommended a Stereo Integrity BM 12" sub. Its mounting depth is only 3.5" so I imagine it is very lightweight. On paper, it should outperform an Fi Q on the same power.

 

is an actively crossed over set up audibly THAT much better...to the point I would notice?

 

I'm considering going with a DLS A5 and forgetting about an active set up

I'm not an audiophile, and this way I get more power for my sub

 

I'm considering going with a DLS A5 and forgetting about an active set up

I'm not an audiophile, and this way I get more power for my sub

 

DLS A5 or JL 300/4 and 500/1?

Decisions, decisions...

Also for the sub...How would an Fi Q be on 500 watts in a sealed application? IDQ? JL W6v2?

Can Zenclosures do an enclosure that houses a 12" sub under the strut?

 

Your research skills are good! http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=343386

Honestly, I would save yourself the hassle of endless tuning and just get good components w/ passive crossovers.

 

Ya, I would like a system that I can just set up once and enjoy.

The DLS A5 may be the way to go...

 

Why would you think an active setup would require "endless tuning"? If you get someone good to tune your car, you should only have to do it once.

 

Could I tune it myself? Or could Bing instruct me how to do the tuning online?

 

What kind of processor will you be running? If you're just using a head unit and amps, there's not much tuning you can do. My system has a Zapco DSP6 which does all the processing and Bing had his friend do the tuning.

 

Processor? I was just gonna do the Eclipse AVN6620 HU and the amp...

 

I'd say in your case it'd be best to go passive just to keep it simple seeing as how you have no processor. Now if you went with Zapco DC Reference amps, that'd be a different story.