Potential system in the Z - Thoughts?
#21
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That sounds like a damn nice entry level SQ system. Is Bing building the kick panels for you as well? The only thing I'd change is the amp. I'd like to see you go with a DLS Ultimate A7, but that may be well out of your budget. Even the DLS Ultimate A5 would work well for you.
Edit: I take that back about the amp. I thought you were going to run the Rainbow Audio amp but I see Bing must've talked you into a DLS amp already .
Edit: I take that back about the amp. I thought you were going to run the Rainbow Audio amp but I see Bing must've talked you into a DLS amp already .
Last edited by B5I8; 08-06-2008 at 11:26 AM.
#23
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Bing will be doing the kick panels for me.
The amp Bing recommended allows me to have an active crossover setup. He said this would be louder and cleaner than just have 2 channels for the component system.
About the low end...I'm used to always having a system in a trunk. And as I'm getting older, I care less and less about blowin the doors off my cars with bass. I listen to rap, so I want the sub to get low and hit hard, but I need a very clean sound, especially at loud volumes.
The amp Bing recommended allows me to have an active crossover setup. He said this would be louder and cleaner than just have 2 channels for the component system.
About the low end...I'm used to always having a system in a trunk. And as I'm getting older, I care less and less about blowin the doors off my cars with bass. I listen to rap, so I want the sub to get low and hit hard, but I need a very clean sound, especially at loud volumes.
Last edited by Baller23217; 08-06-2008 at 11:48 AM.
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Amp
Originally Posted by 16psibrick
me to, except just the amp that can run his system would cost way more than his entire budget
b
b
From the perspective of someone that built a system and used less than optimal parts I believe you are better off buying what you want than trying to cut corners, all that will happen in the long run is you replace the shotty piece of equipment anyway and have spent more...
Also, thats a lot of power for a set of fronts... most normal comp. sets are capable of getting a lot louder off of 50 watts than the human ear can withstand.. I'm not sure if you really need 90 wrms... but I've always been a little confused by those metrics... also, if you're going to send that kind of current (amperage) to the fronts you will definately have to replace the stock speaker wire or risk melting the existing wires...
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Originally Posted by Roper215
The Zapco DC 1000.4 is 1k. The iPaul is $600 or better, or he could get away with running two Zapco DC series and it would cost about $900. DC 350.2 ($400) and a DC 350.1 ($500).
From the perspective of someone that built a system and used less than optimal parts I believe you are better off buying what you want than trying to cut corners, all that will happen in the long run is you replace the shotty piece of equipment anyway and have spent more...
Also, thats a lot of power for a set of fronts... most normal comp. sets are capable of getting a lot louder off of 50 watts than the human ear can withstand.. I'm not sure if you really need 90 wrms... but I've always been a little confused by those metrics... also, if you're going to send that kind of current (amperage) to the fronts you will definately have to replace the stock speaker wire or risk melting the existing wires...
From the perspective of someone that built a system and used less than optimal parts I believe you are better off buying what you want than trying to cut corners, all that will happen in the long run is you replace the shotty piece of equipment anyway and have spent more...
Also, thats a lot of power for a set of fronts... most normal comp. sets are capable of getting a lot louder off of 50 watts than the human ear can withstand.. I'm not sure if you really need 90 wrms... but I've always been a little confused by those metrics... also, if you're going to send that kind of current (amperage) to the fronts you will definately have to replace the stock speaker wire or risk melting the existing wires...
well, the point is, if you are going to use a four channel to passive a pair of speakres and bridge on a sub, using DC reference amps IMO is a pretty big waste, the whole point of the DC is to do active set ups. why else would one pay $13-400 for a 4x100 amp hehe...the dc1000.4 is lists at $1400, and routinely sells for 1200-1400
the ipaul 4300 MSRPs at $399 hehe, so the dc1000.4 is more than 3 times as much. DC 350.2 is $650-700 there is no such thing as DC350.1, only DC500.1 at around $7-750
Last edited by 16psibrick; 08-07-2008 at 07:31 AM.
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?
Originally Posted by 16psibrick
well, the point is, if you are going to use a four channel to passive a pair of speakres and bridge on a sub, using DC reference amps IMO is a pretty big waste, the whole point of the DC is to do active set ups. why else would one pay $13-400 for a 4x100 amp hehe...the dc1000.4 is lists at $1400, and routinely sells for 1200-1400
the ipaul 4300 MSRPs at $399 hehe, so the dc1000.4 is more than 3 times as much. DC 350.2 is $650-700 there is no such thing as DC350.1, only DC500.1 at around $7-750
the ipaul 4300 MSRPs at $399 hehe, so the dc1000.4 is more than 3 times as much. DC 350.2 is $650-700 there is no such thing as DC350.1, only DC500.1 at around $7-750
But IMHO you get what you pay for in an amp... and do not skimp...
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Originally Posted by Roper215
But IMHO you get what you pay for in an amp
Depends on the rest of your system as well. You wouldn't use McIntosh amps to power Pyramid speakers.
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To me, a watt is a watt.
I'm willing to spend a decent amount of money on a DLS amp because I'll only need 1 amp, I'll have active crossovers, and it looks good.
Like Bing said, I was only going to spend about $350 on the iPaul amp.
Is it true that the comps will get THAT loud off of only 55 watts?
I'm willing to spend a decent amount of money on a DLS amp because I'll only need 1 amp, I'll have active crossovers, and it looks good.
Like Bing said, I was only going to spend about $350 on the iPaul amp.
Is it true that the comps will get THAT loud off of only 55 watts?
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thats ist rue, but its not all about volume, its just about dynamics, listen to a midbass with 50 watts on it and 100 and then 150 and then 200, you can definerly hear hte dynamics of it as headroom increases
hehe zapco is trying to shut down woofers for so long now
hehe zapco is trying to shut down woofers for so long now
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Originally Posted by 16psibrick
thats ist rue, but its not all about volume, its just about dynamics, listen to a midbass with 50 watts on it and 100 and then 150 and then 200, you can definerly hear hte dynamics of it as headroom increases
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Originally Posted by StreetOC192
Bing, you are right. I know my answer was over simplified, but I was just answering the question that was asked and no more since I kind of see this thread going nowhere fast.
i've gotten great advice from bing and i'm always open to listening to other's opinions about my potential set up.
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Originally Posted by Baller23217
why going no where fast?
i've gotten great advice from bing and i'm always open to listening to other's opinions about my potential set up.
i've gotten great advice from bing and i'm always open to listening to other's opinions about my potential set up.
I also agree you got a lot of useful info in this thread. If you allow bing to work his magic you will be very pleased with the results. I have yet to read or hear about a bad experience with his workmanship.
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oh i didn't want this thread to turn into that argument at all.
does anyone else have experience with DLS or the ID10?
It's just hard for me since I don't have any way to hear the speakers or sub locally.
does anyone else have experience with DLS or the ID10?
It's just hard for me since I don't have any way to hear the speakers or sub locally.
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you should do a serach on my i believe demoing speakrse t shops is hardly worth your time...speakres in a room sounds like nothing in a car, and even if you listen to it in a car, a lot has to do with the install quality, the tuning and the car's interior...
honetsly, experiencing things on your own is the best way to go...and take it on faith with me, i do offer htat if you absolutely hate the way what i provide sounds, i will refund your full amount with in a month
b
honetsly, experiencing things on your own is the best way to go...and take it on faith with me, i do offer htat if you absolutely hate the way what i provide sounds, i will refund your full amount with in a month
b
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Originally Posted by 16psibrick
you should do a serach on my i believe demoing speakrse t shops is hardly worth your time...speakres in a room sounds like nothing in a car, and even if you listen to it in a car, a lot has to do with the install quality, the tuning and the car's interior...
honetsly, experiencing things on your own is the best way to go...and take it on faith with me, i do offer htat if you absolutely hate the way what i provide sounds, i will refund your full amount with in a month
b
honetsly, experiencing things on your own is the best way to go...and take it on faith with me, i do offer htat if you absolutely hate the way what i provide sounds, i will refund your full amount with in a month
b
I'm just very anxious to get money to send you so I can get the stock stereo out of my car!...lol
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How do you guys feel about porting the box for the sub and tuning it very low (~27 hz)? Does Zenclosures.com do ported boxes? Do I have enough space?