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Old Aug 16, 2008 | 07:41 AM
  #1  
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Default Wire Questions...

Alright guys I am going to be wiring my system in about a week but while I was at my local audio shop he quoted me $200 for wires. I know good stuff is expensive but I was still a little shocked.

I plan on doing two amps, one 4 channel to all the speakers, and one 1 channel to the sub. The amps will be behind the drivers seat in the stock sub location, the sub in going in a Zenclosure under strut box. I am going to run 2 4gauge power wires for the sub just because it will make me feel a little safer. For the speakers I have always run all new wires but my audio guy told me not to bother, just run them into the stock wiring (near the stock amp) and then run a piece in the door to split of for the components. Is that ok? it seems stupid to me to buy nice speaker wire, only to have it feed stock **** wire.

Also how much wire should I need for everything? If you guys are just buying wiring kits which ones are you getting? Thanks.
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Old Aug 17, 2008 | 03:39 PM
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Default specs?

What are the specs for the amp?

If it makes you feel better use new wires...

You may notice an ever so slight increase in performance in the speakers.

The reason that the specs of the amp / speakers are needed is because the wires do not care about the watts... the amps are what make the heat and cause the wires to burn themselves up. As long as you are less than 50 watts rms on stock speaker wires I wouldn't worry at all... Even if you approach the 75 watt rms range you should still be fine.

If you are going for a very high end SQ install I would recommend running new wires but if you aren't going for anything crazy, the stock wires will be just fine.

I am running a 12 gauge wire to my sub and it has 500 rms watts through it.

I am using the stock wiring from a zapco 200.2 to focal 165 vrs with 50 watts rms.
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Old Aug 18, 2008 | 04:47 AM
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I'm going to be using a boston GT 40, 55x4

http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Produ...ures_and_specs

powering these speakers

http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Produ...065SX60&tp=106

so I should be fine then.

Does anyone know the correct colors from the stock amp so I can just tap them in?
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Old Aug 20, 2008 | 03:44 AM
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*** no need to make a new thread but new question. ***

I found the wiring code for the 03 bose but the same colors are no where near the stock amp. Where is everyone running wires to and then tapping them in?
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Old Aug 20, 2008 | 04:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Roper215
What are the specs for the amp?

If it makes you feel better use new wires...

You may notice an ever so slight increase in performance in the speakers.

The reason that the specs of the amp / speakers are needed is because the wires do not care about the watts... the amps are what make the heat and cause the wires to burn themselves up. As long as you are less than 50 watts rms on stock speaker wires I wouldn't worry at all... Even if you approach the 75 watt rms range you should still be fine.

If you are going for a very high end SQ install I would recommend running new wires but if you aren't going for anything crazy, the stock wires will be just fine.

I am running a 12 gauge wire to my sub and it has 500 rms watts through it.

I am using the stock wiring from a zapco 200.2 to focal 165 vrs with 50 watts rms.
Good timing with this question, as I want to run new wires to the doors as well, but want to avoid it if all possible... my amp will be running 150W RMS. You suggest I upgrade as well? Would 16 AWG be sufficient to run my components?
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Old Aug 20, 2008 | 05:13 AM
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Default wire

Yeah I would recommend you upgrade from the factory wiring if you're going to be sending 150 rms through them... it's actually based on the maximum amperage draw on the amp though.

Like I said before, I've got a 12 gauge wire running 500 watts through it, it's not based on watts, it's based on amp... lemme find a link for ya showing the wire gauge chart etc.
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Old Aug 20, 2008 | 05:25 AM
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Default wire chart

http://www.bcae1.com/wire.htm

you will see both a max watt and max amp draw for a given speaker gauge.. do not get too caught up in the watts column, bc like I said before, watts do not make heat, amps make heat and heat is what melts wire... and unless you are going for an sq/spl monster it's not that big of a deal.

14 should be fine for your front comps. If you want to make absolutely sure there will never be an issue, then go with 12 up front and then probably an 8 gauage wire for your sub.

Be careful when you are taking apart the door gromet, if you splash that connector it's about a 2k screwup.

P.S. list the equipment you're installing

Also depending on what you're installing you might want to think about "The Big 3 upgrade" not 100% sure, but I'm pretty sure it's running new power and ground wires from the battery to the chasis of the car to give less resistance to the system... but you might want to research that more at a later date.

Last edited by Roper215; Aug 20, 2008 at 05:28 AM.
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Old Aug 20, 2008 | 06:40 AM
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Here is what I will be installing:

Alpine PDX-4.150
Polk SR6500

Here is the wire kit I am running: Complete 4 Gauge 4 Channel Amplifier Installation Kit It's a 4 AWG amp kit from KnuKonceptz, so I should be good there.

Here is a question: from the amp to the speaker wire at the back of the HU, I am using the KnuKonceptz 12 AWG wire. From the back of the HU to the door I am using the stock speaker wire. From the door harness to the crossovers, I am using 16 AWG. Will the size changes make a big difference? 12 - stock - 16 (not sure what gauge the stock speaker wiring is).

I REALLY do not want to mess with the door grommets. Please tell me I will be fine running with the stock speaker wires, pllleeease.
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Old Aug 20, 2008 | 07:27 AM
  #9  
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Where the hell are you guys tapping into the stock front wires?


Thanks
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Old Aug 20, 2008 | 08:13 AM
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Originally Posted by drinkingmymilk
Where the hell are you guys tapping into the stock front wires?


Thanks
Behind the head unit, on the after market harness. Cut the wiring for the front speakers on the after market harness that runs out from your HU (leave the rear wires alone), and then solder 12AWG wire to those, which runs back to the amp's speaker terminals. That way, the HU directly controls the rear speakers, and the fronts are run through the amp (and back to the HU via RCAs)

Last edited by KManZ; Aug 20, 2008 at 08:15 AM.
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