Upgrade sound System- Keep Headunit??
Correct me if I'm wrong, I get the impression that you just used a couple of the simple $20 Line Output Converters to get an RCA signal back to the amp, then just tuned it from there? Or did you interface with a DSP first?
Thanks again, I appreciate the suggestion. I do really enjoy good quality audio (I had a 2011 Ford Taurus for a rental for 2 weeks and LOVED the stock stereo) but being that the Z is naturally a noisy car, I don't care for perfect, I just want something 80% of the way.
Thanks again, I appreciate the suggestion. I do really enjoy good quality audio (I had a 2011 Ford Taurus for a rental for 2 weeks and LOVED the stock stereo) but being that the Z is naturally a noisy car, I don't care for perfect, I just want something 80% of the way.
Sorry for the late reply...yeah you just need some line converters. We ran 2 up close to the deck for the fronts and rears...then tapped the rear speaker wire with another one for the sub he's planning to run here once the box ships.
Sweet. Even if I go that route and don't like it, that only sets me back $35. Anything wrong with running both taps off of the rear wire leads? Would I effectively be running in mono as opposed to stereo if I did that (and for that matter, should I chose one front speaker & the opposite side rear speaker)?
Thanks for your input, the idea sounds very cost effective and simple, assuming I'm not a complete moron when it comes to tuning everything.
Thanks for your input, the idea sounds very cost effective and simple, assuming I'm not a complete moron when it comes to tuning everything.
So it turns out I am a complete moron. This is my first real install of a component set, and for now I am running the components off of the stock wiring and not using the crossover. I get an awful lot of tweeter crackle at 70%+ volume (both tweeters). I therefore presume that the stock Clarion HU does not go through an internal crossover and is sending the entire frequency range to the tweeter? If that is the case, then I can run the x-over input off of the door speaker wire. If there is an internal crossover, I imagine that makes things more difficult. It seems damn near impossible that the stock system is overpowering an aftermarket tweeter (85 RMS per side for the new speaks).
Sorry to bring this back from the dead, but if I were to buy an aftermarket HU, an amp, and a sub, would I need a Metra harness, the one with the 4 RCA's, or the other kind? Thanks.
Last edited by haroldnavarrete; Oct 1, 2012 at 07:17 PM.
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