Upgrade sound System- Keep Headunit??
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Hello, was wondering if you can upgrade all your speakers and possibly put in an amp without changing out the HU. I like how it looks and i think after-market ones look bad in the car(just my opinion). Are you able to upgrade your sound system and keep the stock HU???
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Thats why a head unit is called a 'head' unit. It is the heart of your system so-to-speak. This is the first upgrade anybody should make to their systems and will make the most sonic differance for the least amount of money. Some vehicles are difficult to change the head units on (ie: G37, Newer Accords etc...) but because we have a 350Z, we are lucky to be able to easily change this part of our stereos with relative ease with a simple kit and wiring harness or module. Just be thankful you don't have an integrated dash.
If you really must keep the stock deck then you could use a line out converter or better yet, an EQ levelling device like a JL Cleansweep, Audio Control LC6, MTX RE-Q or Rockford 360.2. The latter option is a better choice for sound quality purposes.
If you really must keep the stock deck then you could use a line out converter or better yet, an EQ levelling device like a JL Cleansweep, Audio Control LC6, MTX RE-Q or Rockford 360.2. The latter option is a better choice for sound quality purposes.
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I have an LC6i in my Z. I've had it for a bit more than a year, and I am ambivalent about it.
Does it do what it's designed to do? Yes.
Will your system sound as good as it would if you changed the head unit? I don't think so.
How do I know? I wanted to keep the stock look of the interior and transfer the RF 4004, MB Quart components, RF 3002, and two 10-inch subwoofers I had in my previous car (the ZEnclosures box for two 10-inch subs is perfect). I decided not to install the single-DIN Eclipse head unit (CD5425) I had been using; I was told by a few people that a name-brand, high-quality line-output converter (AudioControl, RF, JL Audio) would yield 90% of the sound quality I was used to in terms of crispness and clarity. Now I realize that different cars can have vastly different sound environments, and I know that the Z's front speakers are not optimally positioned, but I am not satisfied with the fidelity I am getting. The subs sound great, but the component speakers sounded so much better before (I am running fronts only; no need for rear fill in the Z). Basically, the lows are there, but the mids are a bit overboosted, and the highs are nearly absent (I even drilled out the restrictive tweeter covers and main speaker grilles). I obviously know what this particular system is capable of, so this leads me to believe that the weak link is the piece I didn't change, the head unit. The obvious answer here is to get an equalizer, but I think I may just remove the LC6i and get a new head unit.
I will spare you further details of the other tweaks I've made to get this system to sound like I know it can. All in all, the lesson I learned is that a quality head unit should be a part of any system.
I hope someone can benefit from this information.
Does it do what it's designed to do? Yes.
Will your system sound as good as it would if you changed the head unit? I don't think so.
How do I know? I wanted to keep the stock look of the interior and transfer the RF 4004, MB Quart components, RF 3002, and two 10-inch subwoofers I had in my previous car (the ZEnclosures box for two 10-inch subs is perfect). I decided not to install the single-DIN Eclipse head unit (CD5425) I had been using; I was told by a few people that a name-brand, high-quality line-output converter (AudioControl, RF, JL Audio) would yield 90% of the sound quality I was used to in terms of crispness and clarity. Now I realize that different cars can have vastly different sound environments, and I know that the Z's front speakers are not optimally positioned, but I am not satisfied with the fidelity I am getting. The subs sound great, but the component speakers sounded so much better before (I am running fronts only; no need for rear fill in the Z). Basically, the lows are there, but the mids are a bit overboosted, and the highs are nearly absent (I even drilled out the restrictive tweeter covers and main speaker grilles). I obviously know what this particular system is capable of, so this leads me to believe that the weak link is the piece I didn't change, the head unit. The obvious answer here is to get an equalizer, but I think I may just remove the LC6i and get a new head unit.
I will spare you further details of the other tweaks I've made to get this system to sound like I know it can. All in all, the lesson I learned is that a quality head unit should be a part of any system.
I hope someone can benefit from this information.
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you can keep the stock h/u and replace all the speakers and add a sub if you wanted to. my question to you is, what is your goal?
i plan to keep the stock h/u and work around it. i don't like to looks of aftermarket radio's either and i've had my share. actually, i like the way the aftermarket radio's look, just not in my cars. plus, a nav unit is gold to potential theives. the biggest downside to switching out your factory speakers is the potential loss of mid-bass. the factory speakers have been tweaked to sound as good as possible. aftermarket speakers sound best when amplified.
i plan to keep the stock h/u and work around it. i don't like to looks of aftermarket radio's either and i've had my share. actually, i like the way the aftermarket radio's look, just not in my cars. plus, a nav unit is gold to potential theives. the biggest downside to switching out your factory speakers is the potential loss of mid-bass. the factory speakers have been tweaked to sound as good as possible. aftermarket speakers sound best when amplified.
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Need instructions on bypassing bass sub behind driver seat to install a bazooka in the trunk. I also would like to purchase bose sub amp from someone.
Thanks in advance
Thanks in advance
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You can definitely keep the stock head unit and get good, hell, I'll say great quality sound. It all depends on what your ear considers great quality.
I just did this exact upgrade in my 06 Z. The audio installer (awesome guys @ TXR Custom Audio in Austin) used an aftermarket harness (so they didn't have to butcher the factory wiring), an AudioControl LC6 (mention above by orgasm_donor), an Alpine PDX 5 (sweet, underrated amp), Focal Audio 6.5s in the door, and the rears (not needed in the rear, I know, I know). These changes alone produce WAAAYYY MORE crisp highs, mid tones, and bass than the factory system output. I have a JL Audio 10w3v3 sub that's yet to be added. I'm waiting on Nazar at Wicked CAS Audio to finish up his stealth glove box design for the sub.
Even without the sub, the sound is sweet, and I love the setup. Once I get the stealth glove box, and ton of dampening, I'll be all set. And the Z will still look the way the original designers intended. BAD ***.
I just did this exact upgrade in my 06 Z. The audio installer (awesome guys @ TXR Custom Audio in Austin) used an aftermarket harness (so they didn't have to butcher the factory wiring), an AudioControl LC6 (mention above by orgasm_donor), an Alpine PDX 5 (sweet, underrated amp), Focal Audio 6.5s in the door, and the rears (not needed in the rear, I know, I know). These changes alone produce WAAAYYY MORE crisp highs, mid tones, and bass than the factory system output. I have a JL Audio 10w3v3 sub that's yet to be added. I'm waiting on Nazar at Wicked CAS Audio to finish up his stealth glove box design for the sub.
Even without the sub, the sound is sweet, and I love the setup. Once I get the stealth glove box, and ton of dampening, I'll be all set. And the Z will still look the way the original designers intended. BAD ***.
#12
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Nissan’s Z has always been a great sport car. Unfortunately by 1995, the car became so expensive that they were unable to compete in the sports car market place (i.e., the Z became too expensive for the market that Nissan was addressing).
When Nissan reintroduced the Z car in 2003 (as the 350Z) the company selected a price-point for the350Z that allowed owning a high performance sports car that performs exceptionally well and competes with cars that are much more expensive.
To keep the price down, and rather than compromise the driving experience to reduce cost, Nissan chose to install a minimal CES. That makes sense since many current buyers are more interested in performance and handling than a great sound system. Nissan was aware that many Z buyers were more interested in running the car on the track than listening to it’s radio.
The result of this marketing position is a car with a CES that begs for replacement. And, that goes for the stock Clarion system or the Bose “upgrade.”
If you accept my premise, you see why it is necessary to replace the entire CES (everything… every component).
Replacing the stock H/U provides noticeably better sound. That goes for the stock Clarion H/U or the Bose “upgrade.” You can buy SD and DD mounting kits that look very good in your Z.
You also need to replace the speakers and add an external amp (or replace the Bose amp) if you want decent sound.
--Spike
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I do NOT want to hi-jack this thread but would like to ask a question please. I have a non-Bose head unit in my Nismo. I think the sound is Ok... If I wanted to keep the stock set up is there anyway to install just a nav system with the screen in the upper compartment and integrate it into the factory radio?
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I do NOT want to hi-jack this thread but would like to ask a question please. I have a non-Bose head unit in my Nismo. I think the sound is Ok... If I wanted to keep the stock set up is there anyway to install just a nav system with the screen in the upper compartment and integrate it into the factory radio?
I’m using a Garmin GVN52 gps black box (now replaced by the GVN53). The audio switcher I’m using is discontinued, but PAC makes an audio switcher (PAC AS-21AB Audi Switcher) which should work. However, I have not personally tested this.
If you are not expert with 12v installations, I recommend using a professional installer. Audio switchers are tricky because you must have the correct resistance on your grounds to make this work. A PI has an assortment of resistors to test with until getting the exact amount you need to make this work.
--Spike
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Answering this question requires some background information:
Nissan’s Z has always been a great sport car. Unfortunately by 1995, the car became so expensive that they were unable to compete in the sports car market place (i.e., the Z became too expensive for the market that Nissan was addressing).
When Nissan reintroduced the Z car in 2003 (as the 350Z) the company selected a price-point for the350Z that allowed owning a high performance sports car that performs exceptionally well and competes with cars that are much more expensive.
To keep the price down, and rather than compromise the driving experience to reduce cost, Nissan chose to install a minimal CES. That makes sense since many current buyers are more interested in performance and handling than a great sound system. Nissan was aware that many Z buyers were more interested in running the car on the track than listening to it’s radio.
The result of this marketing position is a car with a CES that begs for replacement. And, that goes for the stock Clarion system or the Bose “upgrade.”
If you accept my premise, you see why it is necessary to replace the entire CES (everything… every component).
Replacing the stock H/U provides noticeably better sound. That goes for the stock Clarion H/U or the Bose “upgrade.” You can buy SD and DD mounting kits that look very good in your Z.
You also need to replace the speakers and add an external amp (or replace the Bose amp) if you want decent sound.
--Spike
Nissan’s Z has always been a great sport car. Unfortunately by 1995, the car became so expensive that they were unable to compete in the sports car market place (i.e., the Z became too expensive for the market that Nissan was addressing).
When Nissan reintroduced the Z car in 2003 (as the 350Z) the company selected a price-point for the350Z that allowed owning a high performance sports car that performs exceptionally well and competes with cars that are much more expensive.
To keep the price down, and rather than compromise the driving experience to reduce cost, Nissan chose to install a minimal CES. That makes sense since many current buyers are more interested in performance and handling than a great sound system. Nissan was aware that many Z buyers were more interested in running the car on the track than listening to it’s radio.
The result of this marketing position is a car with a CES that begs for replacement. And, that goes for the stock Clarion system or the Bose “upgrade.”
If you accept my premise, you see why it is necessary to replace the entire CES (everything… every component).
Replacing the stock H/U provides noticeably better sound. That goes for the stock Clarion H/U or the Bose “upgrade.” You can buy SD and DD mounting kits that look very good in your Z.
You also need to replace the speakers and add an external amp (or replace the Bose amp) if you want decent sound.
--Spike
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For those of you who went the DSP route after reading this thread, how satisfied are you with it? I live in a neighborhood that would strongly discourage putting flashy things in my dashboard, so I would rather go the route of a signal processor.
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I'd say stick with the stocker if that's the look you want. Once you actually upgrade all your speakers, add subs, and then amplify everything, all those settings and adjustments "should" be set to flat in the eq. This is the best way for the headunit to produce the cleanest signal...then you let your amps/crossovers do all the work for you to give a super crisp sound. So, honestly I think you can get some good sound out of a stock unit as long as you do it properly. I've got a buddy I helped just finish an install of a system in his 2011 STI sedan and he wanted to keep his factory nav/headunit. Sounds really good.