base vs bose 2003 audio
02-26-2009, 04:38 PM
#5
New Member
I agree with the guys who already answer your question.
No. The stock OEM Clarion and the Bose “upgrade” are equally bad.
If your plan is upgrading pieces instead of doing it all at once, you do not want the Bose since upgrading individual pieces is much easier with the stock Clarion setup.
A suggested path for upgrading your Z:
No. The stock OEM Clarion and the Bose “upgrade” are equally bad.
A suggested path for upgrading your Z:
- Replace the H/U first. This is the heart of your CES, so get as good a unit as you can afford.
- Disconnect the cheap rear speakers since they only pollute the sound from your better H/U (that you just installed). If you really think you need rears, buy some mid-priced coaxials and mount them in the rear position.
- Replace the front speakers with some decent components; and if you have the $$, add an external amp (decent speakers need a good amp, so you are going to do this eventually).
- Install a SubW.
02-26-2009, 04:53 PM
#7
Registered User
Thread Starter
I agree with the guys who already answer your question.
No. The stock OEM Clarion and the Bose “upgrade” are equally bad.
If your plan is upgrading pieces instead of doing it all at once, you do not want the Bose since upgrading individual pieces is much easier with the stock Clarion setup.
A suggested path for upgrading your Z:
No. The stock OEM Clarion and the Bose “upgrade” are equally bad.
If your plan is upgrading pieces instead of doing it all at once, you do not want the Bose since upgrading individual pieces is much easier with the stock Clarion setup.
A suggested path for upgrading your Z:
- Replace the H/U first. This is the heart of your CES, so get as good a unit as you can afford.
- Disconnect the cheap rear speakers since they only pollute the sound from your better H/U (that you just installed). If you really think you need rears, buy some mid-priced coaxials and mount them in the rear position.
- Replace the front speakers with some decent components; and if you have the $$, add an external amp (decent speakers need a good amp, so you are going to do this eventually).
- Install a SubW.
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02-26-2009, 06:46 PM
#10
New Member
Ok.. finally got you above me where I wanted you so I can... 
6 years and 13K posts, and still a NOOB on tech… I’m trying very hard to determine the value of your comments on this specific thread.
Nice Avatar though.
--Spike
6 years and 13K posts, and still a NOOB on tech… I’m trying very hard to determine the value of your comments on this specific thread.
Nice Avatar though.
--Spike
02-26-2009, 07:04 PM
#11
Registered User
Thread Starter
I agree with the guys who already answer your question.
No. The stock OEM Clarion and the Bose “upgrade” are equally bad.
If your plan is upgrading pieces instead of doing it all at once, you do not want the Bose since upgrading individual pieces is much easier with the stock Clarion setup.
A suggested path for upgrading your Z:
No. The stock OEM Clarion and the Bose “upgrade” are equally bad.
If your plan is upgrading pieces instead of doing it all at once, you do not want the Bose since upgrading individual pieces is much easier with the stock Clarion setup.
A suggested path for upgrading your Z:
- Replace the H/U first. This is the heart of your CES, so get as good a unit as you can afford.
- Disconnect the cheap rear speakers since they only pollute the sound from your better H/U (that you just installed). If you really think you need rears, buy some mid-priced coaxials and mount them in the rear position.
- Replace the front speakers with some decent components; and if you have the $$, add an external amp (decent speakers need a good amp, so you are going to do this eventually).
- Install a SubW.
02-26-2009, 07:21 PM
#12
New Member
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WOW! I have seen some stupid posts in my day, but to call Spike a noob in the Audio forum of all places takes the cake! Over 2 years and almost 3k posts is a noob? Spike has offered more valuable content than you have and he did it in 1/3 of the time and with a 1/4 of the posts!
Sorry Spike I know you don't need anyone to defend you but I get irritated with post ******. I could care less how long you have been around. $hit I have made a few worthless posts here but I haven't made I career out of it.
Anyway. Here is where you can reply with something clever like "shut it noob". So I'm a noob, Spike is the man and you are a douchebag. Under those circumstances, I think I am ok being a noob!
Sorry Spike I know you don't need anyone to defend you but I get irritated with post ******. I could care less how long you have been around. $hit I have made a few worthless posts here but I haven't made I career out of it.
Anyway. Here is where you can reply with something clever like "shut it noob". So I'm a noob, Spike is the man and you are a douchebag. Under those circumstances, I think I am ok being a noob!
Last edited by JEKL; 02-26-2009 at 08:45 PM.
02-26-2009, 08:46 PM
#14
New Member
Ohh.. That’s not easily answered. It depends upon what you want and how hard you are willing to shop.
Ok… maybe one way for me to provide an answer is describing what I have in my Z and why I chose these components. My setup is very modest and provides a lot of features and great sound, but can be acquired for a very reasonable expenditure.
My stuff:
I prefer a single-din H/U because they often have great features and usually cost much less than double-din solutions. Clarion is particularly attractive since it’s a feature-rich H/U that you can buy at a steep discount, and its amber color setting exactly matches the Z’s illuminated instrumentation. My Clarion is older now, but still very current as to great sound and features. You could probably buy this H/U (or a comparable Clarion) for $200 or less (and much less if you buy on eBay or used). Also check Eclipse single-din H/U’s for a great product at a very good price.
The Eclipse amp is just a mid-level product, but it delivers great sound and it’s not expensive. You’re looking at less than $200 for decent external amp. This is a 4 channel model, so it could drive SubW’s instead of the rears I installed in my car.
The Focal 165’s were my extravagant purchase. I bought these new and paid something like $500 for the pair. I just really liked the sound, and paid whatever for these. You don’t need to pay this much for your front components.
The Infinity coaxials were dirt cheap (I bought them on eBay for $25). My only goal was getting rid of the horrible and sound-polluting OEM Clarions in the rear. You don’t need rear speakers, but for $25… who cares.
The Power Acoustik 7” LCD is in my upper/forward cubby displays navigation output from the Garmin GVN 52 GPS. This is an inexpensive NTSC/PAL monitor connected using composite video. The cost was less than $100, but the image is fantastic. I route the navigation voice guidance to the car’s front speakers using the PAC audio switcher. The Garmin navigation box will cost you at least $400 (the current model is the GVN 53).
The glaring omission in my setup is the absence of a SubW. You really need this since most modern recording expect a SubW. My Focals handle lows well, but not what you get with a SubW. I haven’t installed this because I cannot figure out where to put it and not lose needed cargo space in my Z coupe model.
Anyway… all my stuff cost about $1500. You can cut this in half if you substitute less costly front speakers for the Focals and eliminate navigation. So… you’re looking at $750 for a nice sounding system if you can live with a single-din H/U and do without a SubW. The cost goes much higher if you pay for professional installation.
Also… I’m not using any touch-screen function stuff. Some people really like touch-screen function, but I’m not a fan of this feature.
--Spike
Ok… maybe one way for me to provide an answer is describing what I have in my Z and why I chose these components. My setup is very modest and provides a lot of features and great sound, but can be acquired for a very reasonable expenditure.
My stuff:
- Clarion DXZ745MP H/U with a Sirius satellite radio receiver
- Eclipse 4 Channel Amp Model EA3422
- Focal 165 V Slim component speakers in the doors (tweeters mounted in the A-Pillars)
- Infinity coaxial speakers in the rear speaker space
- Power Acoustik PT-700MHR LCD 7” Monitor in the upper/forward cubby space
- Garmin GVN52 Navigation Box (mounted in the rear cubby space behind the driver’s seat)
- PAC Audio Source Switcher (mutes radio when sending navigation voice commands to the front speakers)
I prefer a single-din H/U because they often have great features and usually cost much less than double-din solutions. Clarion is particularly attractive since it’s a feature-rich H/U that you can buy at a steep discount, and its amber color setting exactly matches the Z’s illuminated instrumentation. My Clarion is older now, but still very current as to great sound and features. You could probably buy this H/U (or a comparable Clarion) for $200 or less (and much less if you buy on eBay or used). Also check Eclipse single-din H/U’s for a great product at a very good price.
The Eclipse amp is just a mid-level product, but it delivers great sound and it’s not expensive. You’re looking at less than $200 for decent external amp. This is a 4 channel model, so it could drive SubW’s instead of the rears I installed in my car.
The Focal 165’s were my extravagant purchase. I bought these new and paid something like $500 for the pair. I just really liked the sound, and paid whatever for these. You don’t need to pay this much for your front components.
The Infinity coaxials were dirt cheap (I bought them on eBay for $25). My only goal was getting rid of the horrible and sound-polluting OEM Clarions in the rear. You don’t need rear speakers, but for $25… who cares.
The Power Acoustik 7” LCD is in my upper/forward cubby displays navigation output from the Garmin GVN 52 GPS. This is an inexpensive NTSC/PAL monitor connected using composite video. The cost was less than $100, but the image is fantastic. I route the navigation voice guidance to the car’s front speakers using the PAC audio switcher. The Garmin navigation box will cost you at least $400 (the current model is the GVN 53).
The glaring omission in my setup is the absence of a SubW. You really need this since most modern recording expect a SubW. My Focals handle lows well, but not what you get with a SubW. I haven’t installed this because I cannot figure out where to put it and not lose needed cargo space in my Z coupe model.
Anyway… all my stuff cost about $1500. You can cut this in half if you substitute less costly front speakers for the Focals and eliminate navigation. So… you’re looking at $750 for a nice sounding system if you can live with a single-din H/U and do without a SubW. The cost goes much higher if you pay for professional installation.
Also… I’m not using any touch-screen function stuff. Some people really like touch-screen function, but I’m not a fan of this feature.
--Spike
02-27-2009, 01:34 AM
#15
Registered User
Thread Starter
Ohh.. That’s not easily answered. It depends upon what you want and how hard you are willing to shop.
Ok… maybe one way for me to provide an answer is describing what I have in my Z and why I chose these components. My setup is very modest and provides a lot of features and great sound, but can be acquired for a very reasonable expenditure.
My stuff:
I prefer a single-din H/U because they often have great features and usually cost much less than double-din solutions. Clarion is particularly attractive since it’s a feature-rich H/U that you can buy at a steep discount, and its amber color setting exactly matches the Z’s illuminated instrumentation. My Clarion is older now, but still very current as to great sound and features. You could probably buy this H/U (or a comparable Clarion) for $200 or less (and much less if you buy on eBay or used). Also check Eclipse single-din H/U’s for a great product at a very good price.
The Eclipse amp is just a mid-level product, but it delivers great sound and it’s not expensive. You’re looking at less than $200 for decent external amp. This is a 4 channel model, so it could drive SubW’s instead of the rears I installed in my car.
The Focal 165’s were my extravagant purchase. I bought these new and paid something like $500 for the pair. I just really liked the sound, and paid whatever for these. You don’t need to pay this much for your front components.
The Infinity coaxials were dirt cheap (I bought them on eBay for $25). My only goal was getting rid of the horrible and sound-polluting OEM Clarions in the rear. You don’t need rear speakers, but for $25… who cares.
The Power Acoustik 7” LCD is in my upper/forward cubby displays navigation output from the Garmin GVN 52 GPS. This is an inexpensive NTSC/PAL monitor connected using composite video. The cost was less than $100, but the image is fantastic. I route the navigation voice guidance to the car’s front speakers using the PAC audio switcher. The Garmin navigation box will cost you at least $400 (the current model is the GVN 53).
The glaring omission in my setup is the absence of a SubW. You really need this since most modern recording expect a SubW. My Focals handle lows well, but not what you get with a SubW. I haven’t installed this because I cannot figure out where to put it and not lose needed cargo space in my Z coupe model.
Anyway… all my stuff cost about $1500. You can cut this in half if you substitute less costly front speakers for the Focals and eliminate navigation. So… you’re looking at $750 for a nice sounding system if you can live with a single-din H/U and do without a SubW. The cost goes much higher if you pay for professional installation.
Also… I’m not using any touch-screen function stuff. Some people really like touch-screen function, but I’m not a fan of this feature.
--Spike
Ok… maybe one way for me to provide an answer is describing what I have in my Z and why I chose these components. My setup is very modest and provides a lot of features and great sound, but can be acquired for a very reasonable expenditure.
My stuff:
- Clarion DXZ745MP H/U with a Sirius satellite radio receiver
- Eclipse 4 Channel Amp Model EA3422
- Focal 165 V Slim component speakers in the doors (tweeters mounted in the A-Pillars)
- Infinity coaxial speakers in the rear speaker space
- Power Acoustik PT-700MHR LCD 7” Monitor in the upper/forward cubby space
- Garmin GVN52 Navigation Box (mounted in the rear cubby space behind the driver’s seat)
- PAC Audio Source Switcher (mutes radio when sending navigation voice commands to the front speakers)
I prefer a single-din H/U because they often have great features and usually cost much less than double-din solutions. Clarion is particularly attractive since it’s a feature-rich H/U that you can buy at a steep discount, and its amber color setting exactly matches the Z’s illuminated instrumentation. My Clarion is older now, but still very current as to great sound and features. You could probably buy this H/U (or a comparable Clarion) for $200 or less (and much less if you buy on eBay or used). Also check Eclipse single-din H/U’s for a great product at a very good price.
The Eclipse amp is just a mid-level product, but it delivers great sound and it’s not expensive. You’re looking at less than $200 for decent external amp. This is a 4 channel model, so it could drive SubW’s instead of the rears I installed in my car.
The Focal 165’s were my extravagant purchase. I bought these new and paid something like $500 for the pair. I just really liked the sound, and paid whatever for these. You don’t need to pay this much for your front components.
The Infinity coaxials were dirt cheap (I bought them on eBay for $25). My only goal was getting rid of the horrible and sound-polluting OEM Clarions in the rear. You don’t need rear speakers, but for $25… who cares.
The Power Acoustik 7” LCD is in my upper/forward cubby displays navigation output from the Garmin GVN 52 GPS. This is an inexpensive NTSC/PAL monitor connected using composite video. The cost was less than $100, but the image is fantastic. I route the navigation voice guidance to the car’s front speakers using the PAC audio switcher. The Garmin navigation box will cost you at least $400 (the current model is the GVN 53).
The glaring omission in my setup is the absence of a SubW. You really need this since most modern recording expect a SubW. My Focals handle lows well, but not what you get with a SubW. I haven’t installed this because I cannot figure out where to put it and not lose needed cargo space in my Z coupe model.
Anyway… all my stuff cost about $1500. You can cut this in half if you substitute less costly front speakers for the Focals and eliminate navigation. So… you’re looking at $750 for a nice sounding system if you can live with a single-din H/U and do without a SubW. The cost goes much higher if you pay for professional installation.
Also… I’m not using any touch-screen function stuff. Some people really like touch-screen function, but I’m not a fan of this feature.
--Spike
You mentioned about space for the sub. How about the small space that goes for the factory sub behind your seat? I'm sure it's been thought about, but wanted to see why not.
Thanks again man, that was awesome
03-12-2009, 12:36 PM
#18
mazymus,
I happened to have the same concern as you. Yes, you can use the space behind the driver seat where the OEM bose sub is located. I bought a sub enclosure from WickedCAS here on the forum for originially a 10" JL 10W3 (now I have a Polk Momo sub). Alot of people will tell you the location of the sub is not the best place to put a sub in, but I think it's decent enough (I'm not a hardcore stereo guy) for me. You will hear some vibration noise here and there when the music hits the right note, but that's not a really big concern for me.
Also I've heard other people sealed up that space really well and just use that space as a sub enclosure, but dunno how it sounds and/or cost effective. I suppose it would be cheaper than buy one off the shelf like mine if you DIY it.
I happened to have the same concern as you. Yes, you can use the space behind the driver seat where the OEM bose sub is located. I bought a sub enclosure from WickedCAS here on the forum for originially a 10" JL 10W3 (now I have a Polk Momo sub). Alot of people will tell you the location of the sub is not the best place to put a sub in, but I think it's decent enough (I'm not a hardcore stereo guy) for me. You will hear some vibration noise here and there when the music hits the right note, but that's not a really big concern for me.
Also I've heard other people sealed up that space really well and just use that space as a sub enclosure, but dunno how it sounds and/or cost effective. I suppose it would be cheaper than buy one off the shelf like mine if you DIY it.
03-12-2009, 03:16 PM
#20
New Member
Thanks Spike, that was a very helpful and through response. I'm going to keep it bookmarked and refer to it.
You mentioned about space for the sub. How about the small space that goes for the factory sub behind your seat? I'm sure it's been thought about, but wanted to see why not.
Thanks again man, that was awesome
You mentioned about space for the sub. How about the small space that goes for the factory sub behind your seat? I'm sure it's been thought about, but wanted to see why not.
Thanks again man, that was awesome
The large compartment behind the driver seat (OEM mount for the Bose SubW) is certainly a potentially good place to mount a SubW. As cyc5181 states, you can purchase an enclosure (and even one equipped with a SubW) for this space from one of our my350Z.com vendors.
I also agree with cyc5181 when he says: “…the location of the sub [sic: behind the driver seat] is not the best place to put a sub in, but I think it's decent enough…”. I’ve listened to this type of setup for a SubW, and it’s not too bad. The opposing argument is you are shooting the SubW into the back of the driver’s seat, which is very close to the grill. But, consider this is not unlike a down-firing subwoofer you might have sitting your living room for a home theater.
I’m close to installing a SubW (I really think you need this if you want quality sound), and my inclination is to go with cyc5181’s suggestion. I need the cargo space below the strut bar for baggage.
--Spike