I am a neophyte at car audio installation - but hope that someone here may be able to help me out.

Basically I have MB Quart 6.5" speakers installed (having fabricated the necessary spacers and located a spot in the door arm rest area for the crossover networks). I also have an Alpine 9815 all ready to go in.

I would like to wire a new amplifier from the head unit preout for these speakers since I believe this will improve the sound. Can I use the existing factory wiring harness? It appears to be about 20 AWG when the wires for the tweeter and woofer are twisted together as a supply to the MB Quart crossover.

I am concerned about the following:

1. That this may not handle the current from a high quality 100 watt/ channel amplifier. It is a pretty short distance though.

2. If I locate the amplifier in the unused area behind the drivers seat, Is the best wiring method to run the speaker wire from the amplifier back to the head unit's speaker wire harness and tap in there? Or is there a better way to get the amplifier speaker wires back to the door speakers?

I did a few searches but did not find anything so would appreciate any guidance.

Thanks!

 

I installed JL Audio XR components in the doors and the JL 300/4 amp (75x4) in the blose sub location, and I did not want to drill holes in factory plugs (scared). I patched in a length of speaker wire to the Metra plug that connects to the factory harness (where you'd hook up a stock headunit's speaker outs) I have not had any problems with the factory wiring yet and I've had it pretty loud for a good period of time. I'm not sure about the 100 watts though.

I'd recommend that for the rears you use some of the holes in the speaker pod thing and just run like 3-4 foot lengths of new wire to save running it all the way to the front and then back through the stock harness. There's some nice holes in that area under the storage boxes that go straight to the area behind the driver's seat for the amp.

 

If you have the blose system, there are 2 connectors on the drivers side, near the quarter window. One connector is the interface between the HU and blose speaker amp. The other connector is the output of the speaker amp to all 4 speakers.
Since I eliminated all the blose amps, I spliced into the harness at that point for the front speakers. Ran new wires for rear channel and sub. No problem running 50w JL Audio front speakers... not so sure about running 100w speakers.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by bastard
[B]I installed JL Audio XR components in the doors

Did you have to create any spacers for the windows to come down without hitting the speakers?

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Cyp
[B]Yes. Here are the ones I fabricated. I've also seen threads on this board where the housing from from OEM speakers were used. I tried that, but didn't like the fit.

 

Thank You!

 

Would you know off hand the thickness of your bracket? Did you just trace the speaker? What type of sound proofing are you using? I'd like to sound proof my doors but don't really want to use dynomat because of its weight. I'd prefer something lighter and gets the job done. thanks.

 

I believe bracket was 1 1/4" thick
I used the original front speaker housing as a pattern for the bottom ring, and just cut a circle for the top ring, and glued them together.

I used B-Quiet® Extreme sound deadening www.be-quiet.com