I know its possible to just add an aftermarket remote starter kit to the 350z. As far as security goes, I just plan to add a DIY shock sensor to the factory alarm.

What I don't know is that *IF I add the remote start, do I have to carry two transmitters? (one to arm/disarm factory alarm and the other to remote start)

I remember on my previous car which had factory alarm with shock sensor would not let me remote start the car while the factory alarm was still armed.

Which made it very annoying because like all factory units, the range was very short compared to the remote starter unit.

Is it possible to by-pass the factory alarm to remote start the car or even arm/disarm the factory alarm with the remote start transmitter?

I want to purchase this unit:
http://mobile.audiovox.com/audiovox/...UCT_ID=APS620N

 

What your gonna wanna do is run the lock/unlock wires into the door to tie in for keyless entry. Take the factory alarm disarm with off that audiovox unit and simply connect it to the unlock wire going into the door. This will not unlock the car during remote start because it requires what is reffered to as double pulse to unlock the car but it will disarm the factory alarm allowing the car to remote start without issues. Hope that helps.

 

so tap into to the factory lock/unlock wire for the keyless from the remote starter correct?

But that's how i had in my previous car (subaru) I had keyless entry from the compustar unit but would not disarm the factory alarm.

So even if i unlocked the car with the compustar unit, the alarm would still go off

 

Yes tap into the factory lock and unlock which can only be found inside the door at the switch ( they dont go through the door into the kick panel ). I too own a subaru as a daily driver, subaru does things a lil different. On a newer subaru you can only disarm the factory alarm through the factory transmitter but is not the case with nissan. Another cool trick not alot of people know about is if your aftermarket unit has auxilary outputs with adjustable output time you can actually control rolling the windows up and down from the transmitter via the factory lock/unlock wires.

 

The wire is in the door switch? So how does it get signal, it has through run through the door by the hinges or something...

So i did some trials by myself today and still think the remote start will make the alarm go off.

I armed the factory alarm and opened the door by manually unlocking the doors; it triggered the alarm.

I armed the factory alarm and opened the door by using the lock/unlock switch and it triggered the alarm.

I armed the factory alarm and started ignition and did not trigger the alarm.

So my guess is that the alarm automatically will shut off if the car's ignition is turned on?

But once I add the shock sensor, wouldn't that make the alarm trigger since by unlocking with anything else besides the oem transmitter will not disarm the factory alarm?

 

You need to tap the OEM disarm wire to the unlock wire, not the unlock output. The signal, as mentioned above, is ONLY in the door. The signal goes to the power window controller and is then turned in to a serial signal that is transmitted back to the BCM.

A lot of units have factory rearm outputs that can be used as well to rearm the system after the car shuts down.

 

Can you tell me which pin or colored wire is the disarm/unlock wire in the switch?

Also when installing alarms, is it necessary to solder the connections or can i just do a nice clean tap?

 

Personally I solder. T-taps suck!
Here is the wire info:


Factory Alarm Arm arms with lock
Factory Alarm Disarm disarms with unlock

Power Lock red - driver door module in door

Power Unlock lt. blue (double pulse) - driver door module in door

Note:These are the driver door key cylinder wires. Meter the wires while turning the key in the driver door.

 

thanks for you help, i will see if can solder the wires.

also now i need a bypass for the transponder. i dont know the ones you have to put an extra in, anyone recommend one?

 

Soldering is the best way to go, especially in these doors that hold a lot of moisture.

The Directed 556u is the "standard" key in box bypass that has been used since these cars came out. There are many new data bypasses that don't require a dedicated key. The 556u can be bought for $25 or so and the data systems are closer to $50 and typically require a vehicle specific flash.

 

Do you think this unit will be compatible with the 350z?
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...ega+IB-N2.html

 

It doesn't list the 350Z as being a compatible vehicle so I would doubt it. I would stick to a reputable name brand when it comes to security bypasses.

 

Could you help me select a data system bypass unit?

EDIT:
http://www.electronicsbonanza.com/co...ku=12212&src=g

will this work?

 

It may, I've never used it. That looks like one that you will give up your key to use.

 

Just bought the DEI 556U/XKEY