BOSE head unit replacement questions.
#1
BOSE head unit replacement questions.
I have heard conflicting accounts regarding replacing the BOSE HU.
Some tell me that in order to change the deck I would have to change out all the speakers as well, while an audio shop just told me that the deck can be switched while keeping the BOSE speakers.
So... Which is it?
Some tell me that in order to change the deck I would have to change out all the speakers as well, while an audio shop just told me that the deck can be switched while keeping the BOSE speakers.
So... Which is it?
Last edited by TikiDan; 02-08-2010 at 03:37 PM.
#3
Awesome! thanks for the quick reply. Do you happen to know which harness I need, and where to get it?
I plan on replacing all eventually, but dont have all the cash to drop at once.
I plan on replacing all eventually, but dont have all the cash to drop at once.
#4
#6
That is what I understand. I just replaced everything and ran all new stuff to get better sound quality and much more low end out of it.
Seeing the RCA plugs on the harness leads me to believe it will work just fine.
Just make sure your aftermarket head unit has pre outs on it. You will want front rear and sub pre outs.
Seeing the RCA plugs on the harness leads me to believe it will work just fine.
Just make sure your aftermarket head unit has pre outs on it. You will want front rear and sub pre outs.
#7
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#8
You're doing it wrong!
The head end is the "best" part of the system. Yeah, yours is dead but if at all possible replace those weak speakers with anything you can. If you don't have the budget at least have the installer run the wires down into the kick panels so that later you can swap the Bose speakers out and replace them with some quality $40 speakers (or better). Those Bose speakers aren't worth $20 each.
Been awhile ... here's some pictures.
The speaker doesn't really go to the edge of the basket, the magnet is tiny, and the frame is plastic. Nuff' said?
The crossover for the Infinity is a complex circuit with a dozen or so parts, the Bose is a single capacitor on the back of the tweeter.
And the best for last. That large silver chuck of metal in the middle isn't the missing magnet from the Bose sub-woofer - it's a second tuning slug for the dVQ speakers. The Bose speaker is made of paper and has a magnet so small it fits inside the cone's cap. The diameter of the coil has to be an inch or so.
The head end is the "best" part of the system. Yeah, yours is dead but if at all possible replace those weak speakers with anything you can. If you don't have the budget at least have the installer run the wires down into the kick panels so that later you can swap the Bose speakers out and replace them with some quality $40 speakers (or better). Those Bose speakers aren't worth $20 each.
Been awhile ... here's some pictures.
The speaker doesn't really go to the edge of the basket, the magnet is tiny, and the frame is plastic. Nuff' said?
The crossover for the Infinity is a complex circuit with a dozen or so parts, the Bose is a single capacitor on the back of the tweeter.
And the best for last. That large silver chuck of metal in the middle isn't the missing magnet from the Bose sub-woofer - it's a second tuning slug for the dVQ speakers. The Bose speaker is made of paper and has a magnet so small it fits inside the cone's cap. The diameter of the coil has to be an inch or so.
#9
I replaced just the HU in mine and improved the sound greatly. Will it sound as good as adding a bigger amp and speakers? No. But it will get much better. My HU had a 13 band equalizer front and rear plus the ability to boost the bass as well as a lot of other sound settings.
#13
BTW in those comparison pictures there are some things you need to keep in mind.
The BOSE speakers have Neo magnets on them, and the Infinities have ferrite. Those are two different worlds.
This is a 15" Shocker sig with a neo motor.
It is more powerful than this 15" with big ol' ferrite slugs.
There are reasons behind the size of BOSE's stuff. BTW on the BOSE sub the magnet is on the front. it is set up a little different than normal subs.
The BOSE speakers have Neo magnets on them, and the Infinities have ferrite. Those are two different worlds.
This is a 15" Shocker sig with a neo motor.
It is more powerful than this 15" with big ol' ferrite slugs.
There are reasons behind the size of BOSE's stuff. BTW on the BOSE sub the magnet is on the front. it is set up a little different than normal subs.
#14
#16
BTW in those comparison pictures there are some things you need to keep in mind.
The BOSE speakers have Neo magnets on them, and the Infinities have ferrite. Those are two different worlds.
This is a 15" Shocker sig with a neo motor.
It is more powerful than this 15" with big ol' ferrite slugs.
There are reasons behind the size of BOSE's stuff. BTW on the BOSE sub the magnet is on the front. it is set up a little different than normal subs.
The BOSE speakers have Neo magnets on them, and the Infinities have ferrite. Those are two different worlds.
This is a 15" Shocker sig with a neo motor.
It is more powerful than this 15" with big ol' ferrite slugs.
There are reasons behind the size of BOSE's stuff. BTW on the BOSE sub the magnet is on the front. it is set up a little different than normal subs.
Notice that the depths of the two SubW’s you show in your pictures appear close to one another. It’s the circumference of the two magnets that is quite different in those pictures.
Re> “BTW on the BOSE sub the magnet is on the front. it is set up a little different than normal subs.”
I wonder why you would place the magnet on the front. Wouldn’t that interfere with air/sound movement, and compromise the component’s performance? That certainly seems to be the case with the Z’s OEM Bose SubW. You would only design something this way if your main concern was fitment that accommodates a tight space.
--Spike
#17
Magnets… ShhMagnets...
Notice that the depths of the two SubW’s you show in your pictures appear close to one another. It’s the circumference of the two magnets that is quite different in those pictures.
Re> “BTW on the BOSE sub the magnet is on the front. it is set up a little different than normal subs.”
I wonder why you would place the magnet on the front. Wouldn’t that interfere with air/sound movement, and compromise the component’s performance? That certainly seems to be the case with the Z’s OEM Bose SubW. You would only design something this way if your main concern was fitment that accommodates a tight space.
--Spike
Notice that the depths of the two SubW’s you show in your pictures appear close to one another. It’s the circumference of the two magnets that is quite different in those pictures.
Re> “BTW on the BOSE sub the magnet is on the front. it is set up a little different than normal subs.”
I wonder why you would place the magnet on the front. Wouldn’t that interfere with air/sound movement, and compromise the component’s performance? That certainly seems to be the case with the Z’s OEM Bose SubW. You would only design something this way if your main concern was fitment that accommodates a tight space.
--Spike
The biggest sub motor that I can think of is the Shocker Sig ferrites and they weigh right around 100lbs each and just barely fit on a 12" sub. They changed to Neo's and are just as powerful and weigh considerably less. Neo magnets give of a much stronger magnetic field than ferrite does so less material is needed to achieve the same goal.
I'm not sure why it is designed the way it is, but I'm guessing they used it as somewhat of a phase plug to help with the sound output. Nobody understands why BOSE does what they do, but it works... They just inverted the mounting of the former on the cone so the coil sticks out the front of the cone instead of the back. I think I've seen another sub that was designed this way, but I can't remember what it was.
#18
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...PAC_OEM-2.aspx
Whats the difference between the 2? According to them i need this to install the Eclipse AVN726E
#20
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...s_70-7550.aspx