I have heard conflicting accounts regarding replacing the BOSE HU.

Some tell me that in order to change the deck I would have to change out all the speakers as well, while an audio shop just told me that the deck can be switched while keeping the BOSE speakers.

So... Which is it?

 

It can be switched and keep the stock setup.

Just get the proper wiring harness adapter. Might as well replace it all though, it sounds like poo.

 

Awesome! thanks for the quick reply. Do you happen to know which harness I need, and where to get it?

I plan on replacing all eventually, but dont have all the cash to drop at once.

 

This is the one you need.

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_1207075...ss.html?tp=736

 

cool, so just to make sure i got this figured out, If I get that harness, and new deck installed it will allow me to use the current bose speakers and sub?

 

That is what I understand. I just replaced everything and ran all new stuff to get better sound quality and much more low end out of it.

Seeing the RCA plugs on the harness leads me to believe it will work just fine.

Just make sure your aftermarket head unit has pre outs on it. You will want front rear and sub pre outs.

 

this was the deck I was looking at

http://signature.crutchfield.com/s_1...+premier&ssi=0

 

You're doing it wrong!

The head end is the "best" part of the system. Yeah, yours is dead but if at all possible replace those weak speakers with anything you can. If you don't have the budget at least have the installer run the wires down into the kick panels so that later you can swap the Bose speakers out and replace them with some quality $40 speakers (or better). Those Bose speakers aren't worth $20 each.

Been awhile ... here's some pictures.


The speaker doesn't really go to the edge of the basket, the magnet is tiny, and the frame is plastic. Nuff' said?


The crossover for the Infinity is a complex circuit with a dozen or so parts, the Bose is a single capacitor on the back of the tweeter.


And the best for last. That large silver chuck of metal in the middle isn't the missing magnet from the Bose sub-woofer - it's a second tuning slug for the dVQ speakers. The Bose speaker is made of paper and has a magnet so small it fits inside the cone's cap. The diameter of the coil has to be an inch or so.

 

I replaced just the HU in mine and improved the sound greatly. Will it sound as good as adding a bigger amp and speakers? No. But it will get much better. My HU had a 13 band equalizer front and rear plus the ability to boost the bass as well as a lot of other sound settings.

 

so for new speakers I would have to run new wires also?

 

Why?

 

I was told that the speakers were proprietary to the head unit and would not work without the brain.

 

BTW in those comparison pictures there are some things you need to keep in mind.

The BOSE speakers have Neo magnets on them, and the Infinities have ferrite. Those are two different worlds.

This is a 15" Shocker sig with a neo motor.



It is more powerful than this 15" with big ol' ferrite slugs.



There are reasons behind the size of BOSE's stuff. BTW on the BOSE sub the magnet is on the front. it is set up a little different than normal subs.

 

This can't be done. A speaker is a simple electromagnet. There is no way for it to tell what is sending it power.

 

i swapped mine out and had no issues.

 

Magnets… ShhMagnets...

Notice that the depths of the two SubW’s you show in your pictures appear close to one another. It’s the circumference of the two magnets that is quite different in those pictures.

Re> “BTW on the BOSE sub the magnet is on the front. it is set up a little different than normal subs.”

I wonder why you would place the magnet on the front. Wouldn’t that interfere with air/sound movement, and compromise the component’s performance? That certainly seems to be the case with the Z’s OEM Bose SubW. You would only design something this way if your main concern was fitment that accommodates a tight space.

--Spike

 

The depths on the magnets are close to the same because the voice coil has to move inside it, and those bigger subs are designed to have a lot of xmax so if you put a shallow magnet on it it would bottom out every time it moved.

The biggest sub motor that I can think of is the Shocker Sig ferrites and they weigh right around 100lbs each and just barely fit on a 12" sub. They changed to Neo's and are just as powerful and weigh considerably less. Neo magnets give of a much stronger magnetic field than ferrite does so less material is needed to achieve the same goal.

I'm not sure why it is designed the way it is, but I'm guessing they used it as somewhat of a phase plug to help with the sound output. Nobody understands why BOSE does what they do, but it works... They just inverted the mounting of the former on the cone so the coil sticks out the front of the cone instead of the back. I think I've seen another sub that was designed this way, but I can't remember what it was.

 

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...PAC_OEM-2.aspx

Whats the difference between the 2? According to them i need this to install the Eclipse AVN726E

 

That is a line out converter. That is for if you want to add amps to a non amp'd factory h/u.

You shouldn't need it for what you are doing.

 

Kool thanks.. Is this is the correct part i need from Onlinecar Stereo?.. I figure i would order everything from one place...


http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...s_70-7550.aspx