Sub, amp, and box question
05-09-2010 | 06:53 PM
#1
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Sub, amp, and box question
Ok been out of the audio scene for a bit now. Looking to add a bit of sound to the Accord. So far I have bought an MB Quart DSC 4125 and some Polk door speakers. I have two of the channels unbridged right now and they scream.
Amp:
http://www.caraudiodeals.com/mb-quar...25-p-2250.html
Speaker:
http://signature.crutchfield.com/s_1...-2.html?tp=111
My biggest question is this. I am using the amp to push both the doors and the sub. I am looking at a JL Audio 10W3v3, but I am making sure this amp will be able to push it with two of the channels bridged, or should I be looking at a speaker that takes less power to push. My other question is what box would you recommend. My old W3V2 in my Z, I had in a sealed box and I liked it. Should I stick with my plan with this sub or look into another with what I have so far.
Here are some boxes I have been looking at, but not sure of the quality or whether they will work properly. They seem to have the correct airspace.
http://www.amazon.com/OBCON-Single-S...48826&sr=1-223
http://www.amazon.com/Goldwood-TR10S...3419606&sr=1-3
http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/S...id/0/SFV/30046
Amp:
http://www.caraudiodeals.com/mb-quar...25-p-2250.html
Speaker:
http://signature.crutchfield.com/s_1...-2.html?tp=111
My biggest question is this. I am using the amp to push both the doors and the sub. I am looking at a JL Audio 10W3v3, but I am making sure this amp will be able to push it with two of the channels bridged, or should I be looking at a speaker that takes less power to push. My other question is what box would you recommend. My old W3V2 in my Z, I had in a sealed box and I liked it. Should I stick with my plan with this sub or look into another with what I have so far.
Here are some boxes I have been looking at, but not sure of the quality or whether they will work properly. They seem to have the correct airspace.
http://www.amazon.com/OBCON-Single-S...48826&sr=1-223
http://www.amazon.com/Goldwood-TR10S...3419606&sr=1-3
http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/S...id/0/SFV/30046
05-09-2010 | 08:46 PM
#2
The MB Quart amplifier says "RMS Power Rating: 4 ohms: 125 watts x 4 chan.; 2 ohms: 250 watts x 4 chan.; Bridged: 4 ohms: 500 watts x 2 chan." which looks like it will do bridging. I haven't run across a four channel amplifier that you couldn't bridge to a three channel but haven't played with an MB Quart amp. "Switchable 2-channel/4-channel input modes" which worries me ... if there's one external switch rather than bridging the channels using cables that might be a problem.
500 watts is a lot of power and matches the maximum power limit of the JL Audio 10W3v3. They recommend 300 watts at the maximum continuous power so playing music you ought to be fine.
The JL Audio 10W3v3 comes in three impedances with some minor differences in their Thiel-Small parameters. Looking at the owner's manual on page 3 JL Audio gives some suggested sizes for sealed and ported enclosures.
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/pdfs/11232.pdf
For sealed enclosures your first box at 0.75 cu.ft. looks to be a good match. The driver is going to "eat" 0.05 of that for 0.70 - JL recommends 0.625 as "ideal". Depending on which driver impedance you're getting that's going to give you a Qtc of 0.83 to 0.81. That's about the "sweet" spot IMHO between flat with the deepest F3 (-3dB point frequency) and too boomy/boxy. Between 0.8 and 1.0 is good with my personal preference lower than higher.
If you want to port that speaker JL recommends a bigger 1.25 cu.ft. box which doesn't sound much bigger but it's twice the size of the first box you listed.
About the only advantage I can think of going with another amplifier is to prevent your bass channels from drawing down the voltage of the front speakers. Separate amplifiers will have separate voltage rails driving the power transistors. In cheaper amplifiers the four channels all share a common voltage, I don't know what the MB Quart amplifier does but at $150 I have my suspicions.
500 watts is a lot of power and matches the maximum power limit of the JL Audio 10W3v3. They recommend 300 watts at the maximum continuous power so playing music you ought to be fine.
The JL Audio 10W3v3 comes in three impedances with some minor differences in their Thiel-Small parameters. Looking at the owner's manual on page 3 JL Audio gives some suggested sizes for sealed and ported enclosures.
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/pdfs/11232.pdf
For sealed enclosures your first box at 0.75 cu.ft. looks to be a good match. The driver is going to "eat" 0.05 of that for 0.70 - JL recommends 0.625 as "ideal". Depending on which driver impedance you're getting that's going to give you a Qtc of 0.83 to 0.81. That's about the "sweet" spot IMHO between flat with the deepest F3 (-3dB point frequency) and too boomy/boxy. Between 0.8 and 1.0 is good with my personal preference lower than higher.
If you want to port that speaker JL recommends a bigger 1.25 cu.ft. box which doesn't sound much bigger but it's twice the size of the first box you listed.
About the only advantage I can think of going with another amplifier is to prevent your bass channels from drawing down the voltage of the front speakers. Separate amplifiers will have separate voltage rails driving the power transistors. In cheaper amplifiers the four channels all share a common voltage, I don't know what the MB Quart amplifier does but at $150 I have my suspicions.
Last edited by Paul350Z; 05-09-2010 at 08:47 PM.
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