My amp will fit there no problem. build an amp rack and hide the wires behind the amp. Install a circulation fan on top, then it should be good.

I am planning to install 2-10" subs in the middle hatch area. Facing forward or top. It will have to have custom box build to fit the space between the rear speakers and the struct brace.

Can't wait to get that started...

 

I am thinking about filling the inside with fiberglass

 

where does that black wire go...for the sub?

 

hmmm, no idea??? After having a buddy look at it with me...we came to a couple of conclusions. All of the wasted space in there is for the convertable model. If you remember they wanted to design the coupe to be able to make a quick transition to a convertable model, so while the coupe doesn't really need the space for anything (ok, more map compartments) the convertable will. It does look like you will have to take out most of the panels to get to this area or at least to take out the sub bracket. We deduced that the two brackets in the picture were probably where the box for the BOSE sub bolts in, then they replace the bracket and bolt the sub right in. I really would love for a Touring guy/gal to check out the Bose sub setup. This might shed some light on this. Assuming you could get all of the panels off to get the white sub bracket out, I think you could just build a box that would fit right into that space and really could just leave the sub bracket off, then cut whole in lid panel put in grill and go. I need to talk with my Stereo place on building the box. Cars going in on Friday to get all of the other stuff installed (window tint, amps, speakers in door and rear, etc.) Will update more later.

 

I would like to know how the sub sound with the factory sub location. Keep us updated.

Which subwoofer are you going with? what about door speakers? what kind of amp and how much watts?

Thanks.

 

I'm hoping the use the JL 10W3 for the sub running off of a bridged MTX 250x amp. This combo worked perfect in my previous car. Then my four speakers will be Boston Acoustics 6 1/2 all the way around. I decided not to go with components in the door because I really want a clean factory look to the car. The factory tweeters in the a-pillars will be hooked up to give me just enough sound from there. The BA will run off of another MTX 250. Each amp will be installed under each seat. If I can just get the sub compartment worked out I will have my stereo set without really changing the look of the interior (minus grill for 10" behind drivers seat). Most of this stuff I have used before and really love the combination. This should be all complete by next Sunday.

 

Like this?

 

BTW after seeing the car my vote is definitely to take out the spare tire and fiberglass a custom box into that area. Who needs a spare anyways? That's what AAA is for

 

Any reason you didn't get Boston Pro's in component form for the fronts and replace the stock tweeter??

It seems to me you're gonna kill your Bostons with that ****-*** stock tweet that probably cost them 0.00000000003892 cents to make...

 

Well first big price between pro's component and the ones I'm getting plus, like I said I wanted to keep the stock look. The Boston tweeters for the components would require enlarging the current factory tweeter whole and would have a different look. Besides, the tweeters really aren't going to emit that much sound as to take away from the Boston's. If they do I will just run them off the deck power and the BA will be off the amp. That should reduce them as to not take away from the BA.

 

not facing backward, but forward, and not using the space underneth the struct brace, but on each corner close to the side... the space between the rear factory speaker and the struct brace.. get it?

 

Apexi-

nizl just wanted to show off his mad photoshop skillz.

Audio gurus-

Are there possible concerns regarding bass wavelength in such a small cabin? Is this why you are thinking of doing the enclosure in the spare well, nizl? I know I had some issue in my old Eclipse, just wondering what your all's thoughts were on this subject.

Thanks for the info and pics, aggie.

I would really like to use the two compartments for sub and components. I think after reading the info from one of nizl's posts, I am going to go with the W7.

JD

 

Hey, I've thought about 10W3 also. I want to hide my amp there too, but it's hard because I need to do adjustments to the xover.

I just want to set everything up and hide everything in that compartment.

Now I need to find out where the Bose grille is, and where I can get one.

 

I keep putting my 10" jl audio in my 280z, then I have to take it out. It seems like a waste of money to not use it, but its too much for the rear hatch area. I think that the higher of the low freq.s are resonated too much and the lower of the low freq. pass out of the car before reflecting.

 

I reread some of the Sub discussions and realized I wasn't correctly remembering what nizl had sad about the W7 and the stock location.

I guess I wll have to do some more research.

JD

 

Yeah, I think in such a small cabin any sub is going to be overpowering. I'm thinking a JL 12W6v2 to hit low, but balanced evenly to prevent the overly boomy sound.

Now, downfiring is also an option, perhaps right behind the seats, Apexi350z....

 

You know what would work great in here, is a cylinder. Seal one of those orange road construction cones at the end, then mount the sub in the open end...

You get the idea though right? Come on you engineers, get your minds working! Some sort of cylinder can be designed to use this space and yet be a perfect fit and snug where the speaker mounts.

Think, think, think... come on somebody come up with something!!!

late-

 

Does the front plate with the circle cut come out? If it does, wejust need to slide a small box in there.

 

you never told me where the black wire in the picture goes. Is it loose, or is it connected to someting else?